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Finally got my old model 70 to shoot lead bullets as straight as I can aim.
It was a challenge to get cast lead to work, the barrel is pitted, so powder coat on it's own just gets chewed up and the lead piles up in the grooves.
Normal warnings with the load data, what's good for me could be bad for you.
http://ysterhout.net/docs/paper-patch/index.html
No real reason to powder coat bullets that are paper patched, unless they just need to be bigger. But it's good to hear you got them working well! I also had my best results patching for the H&H as well as a 375/338 win mag.
Wasn’t quite sure from what you’re posting; were you sizing down to bore diameter and then patching back up to .377”? It’s pretty easy to lap a lee .357 straight thru die up to .366” and the running your Boolits thru it to bring Em down to about bore diameter. Then patch back up to what the fired case neck will let you seat, and have at it. The patched boolit doesn’t have to be sized, and I can imagine trying to size one in a lubesizer die would damage the patch….
If you shoot enough paper after awhile you will notice that barrel tends to get a little shiny which is a good thing
First attempt was as cast .382 with two wraps then sized back down to .376 in a lube sizer die, and yes, the holes ripped the patch.Quote:
Originally Posted by wmitty
Patching as cast .370 with three wraps, then a pass in custom push through die at .377 got it working.
Definitely more than one way to get it right, but starting with the bigger diameter as cast was a mistake, and trying to use a lube sizer die was the second mistake.
I swaged and paper patched .366 slugs for a customers 375 Win Contender. He swore by them as a deer hammer.
Did you ever consider fire lapping that bore?
At first yes, but getting the components to the dark continent was a too expensive exercise.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE
The bore is so badly pitted that fire lapping may just change the bore diameter, not clean it up.
I was already setup for casting, and I want to shoot lead in this rifle just to be able to use it for as long as possible without re-barrelling.
Just another opinion on subject is all.
Old eyes are now deceiving me. I can't tell in the pix as to the direction of the wrap. As wrap needs to be laid in the direction of the barrel twist for optimum performance. I wouldn't worry about the rust. If intending to remove rust. Slug the barrel first then slug again after rust removal. You'll know what the final bore diameter is so to cast too (custom ordered mold) and patch properly.
Nice, detailed write up Op. Thanks for Sharing. Uncle Mike