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Last week I made my first batch of Ben's Red and immediately applied it to a bunch of NOE's 225-55G-3C-GC. I took a few test loads to the range and shot them through my Ruger No. 3 in .223. I found an accurate load then wrapped everything up to go home. Took a look down the bore of the Ruger and it looked like it had never been fired. Just a shiny bore. Wow! I'm sold. Thanks Ben!
It just works. If you make it to the recipe, it just plain WORKS.
ch
More information would be valuable. I understand you may not wish to share your load data but would you kind enough to estimate your velocity. Also, what is "accurate" - number of shots, group size, and range.
Lack of leading is a good thing but must be balanced with load performance. For example, a load at 1500 fps yielding 3 shot 1" groups at 50 yards that does not lead is of less interest than one running 2700 fps yielding 5 shot 2" groups at 100 yards.
Thanks,
Don Verna
Which Ben's Red? I've been mixing the old original recipe for years, but I know there's all sorts of modifications of it around.
Never thought about it as a bullet lube.
JohnFM:
What have you been using "Ben's Red" for, if not a boolit lube?
Whoops, sorry Ed's Red is what I was thinking. :coffee:
Gotta look up this Ben's recipe. :grin:
Works great in a rifle but I am still trying to get the revolvers to work with it.
Really? What's going on with it? I have used it in a 300g RNFP Lee, sized .454 and a healthy dose of H110 in a Ruger. It's accurate, no leading and loosens any chest congestion I may have from the blast and recoil! LOL [actually, it's not that bad]Quote:
Originally Posted by 44man
I've stated before, the only thing I have found with Ben's Red is that I get a light greasy film in the bore and if I shoot a few hundred, I get that same film settled on the gun. It wipes clean in one pass with a rag or using two or three dry patches......OH my lord, I've a lubricating substance on my guns! Ahhh!
I'd be interested in any problems too. I just started making Ben's Red and have only used it on some LBT 280 gr WFN sized at .453 in my Ruger BH with fairly heavy charges of H110/296. Good accuracy, mirror bright bore, lube star at muzzle. I have not tried it for revolvers with loads at less that 1,000 fps because I use 45/45/10 with great results.
I'm afraid you won't be very impressed. Earlier I had worked up a 45 gr. boolit load using greendot and got .5" accuracy for a 5 shot group at 50 yards. I don't have a chronograph but using estimates from Lyman's CB manual I figure about 1500 fps. I wanted a heavier boolit to have a similar point of impact so I worked up the 55 grain boolits (they weigh in at 63 grains using my alloy, which is unknown range scrap, lubed and checked.) I used Greendot for those as well, 7.4 grains, and I estimate about 1900 fps. These grouped .75" at 50 yards. I worked these up for squirrel hunting. For my needs, I'm not interested in a hotter load for this gun.Quote:
Originally Posted by dverna
You are very welcome. I always enjoy reading about other shooters's successes with Ben's Red !Quote:
Originally Posted by chsparkman
It seems like me, Ben and DeanWinchester have really worked this lube the most. Bens and Dean have come up with some really good ideas, and I've thrown my .02 worth in to on making this lube.
I've made it just about every way possible. My latest of the 6 batches I've made was to totally melt the R&T.
Now from what I've noticed, there is variations on the tackiness and how slick Bens Red can be.
You can make it by throwing all the ingredients in together melting the beeswax first. This will provide a tacky lube that adheres well to the lube grooves. After lubing it will harden or stiffen up a tad in the lube grooves, making it perfect to handle without pulling out of the groove.
My latest batch of melting the R&T fully, to the point of full liquidous state, then adding the other ingredients, has resulted in a tacky but very slick feeling lube. Darker in color due to the full liquidous melting of the R&T, this lube is not quite as easy to apply, as in to get a uniform look in the lube grooves, it takes a few extra cycles on the LAM.
It will pull away easier when touched after lubing from the grooves.
It will harden some after lubing and letting set for a day, but not as hard as it will if mixed from the original version of throwing all the ingredients together and making it.
The different versions I have made, have benefits and disadvantages so far depending on caliber used in.
But I'm still sold on it working....
ch,
The additional information makes the thread so much more useful. Your accuracy and velocities are great for your purposes.
Some of us a looking for much higher velocities in the .223 - but that does not negate the value of your results for those looking for an inexpensive and accurate plinking/squirrel load.
Thanks for the additional information.
Don Verna