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Just thought I would put this out there to see what people think. With modern style molds, like Lee, RCBS and Lyman, where the sprue is cut off fairly clean, is there a necessity to place the sprue cut up? I understand the need when using an original style mold where the sprue needs to be cut off and leaves a nub protruding, but the newer molds leave the ball fairly smooth.
So, the question is, do you worry about sprue placement with modern molds?
I like to put it on top just so I can see it. That way, I know it hasn't rolled to the side where it can ruin the gas seal. I also do this in revolvers to make sure they don't ruin the chamber seal.
Inside a wad cup straight up or down,(tri-ball load)
Muzzle loader up.
If get a chance to tumble them just drop in.
On most of the lead balls that I cast.
I cast the balls , then tumble them in a ball mill.
Tumbling them rounds off any sprue humps.
Tumbling also shows up any other defects if they exist.
Once I get done tumbling the balls.
I measure them to sort them out to make sure the balls are now all the same size.
It would be more critical on Lee molds, since they leave a flat spot instead of a protruding sprue.
LAGS, I'll have to try that for the balls I shoot in my smoothbore.
When I was at the range.
Other guys looked at the cast balls I was shooting that had been ball milled.
They all said that they looked like Swedged balls rather than cast.
I put em in a canvas bag with a bit of powdered graphite - rumble em around for a few minutes - its about halfway to what Lags is doing - load any way they come ( most of the time! if I was serious in a match then I likely go the extra bit and load sprue up if I can see it)Quote:
Originally Posted by LAGS
how long in the mil ???Quote:
Originally Posted by LAGS
I don't set any time limit on ball milling the lead balls.
I probably do it for at least an hour in my HF rock tumbler with just the balls in there.
I might try some graphite and see if that does any better.
Years ago,
I use to shake up the lead balls in an old bag from shotgun shot.
It rounded off the sprue somewhat.
But now that I have so many different calibers.
I just cast some balls.
Them let them tumble while I cast up balls of another caliber.
Tumbling the Buckshot that was cast in one of those Lee Buckshot molds works really great since they are cast , then cut apart.
Hello Sasquatch-1,
I have never read about the subject,
but my mentor taught me to load with the sprue facing forward.
I still load round balls this way, and have for the last 45 years.
AntiqueSledMan.
Sprue up for a patched ball, trad muzzleloader.
In the long run, I'm not sure it matters a lot. Still, I load 'em with the sprue up so that the starter / ram rod with their cupped ends smash any irregularities into a "rounded" surface. No real complaints either way.
Sprue up so I can see that it is centered.
I try for sprue down. Don't known if it helps to have a smooth round surface but my Lee mold leaves a noticeable stub. Making some up this weekend so try both and see what happens.
Doesn't make an iota of difference. Interesting I was just out shooting my Pietta 1860 Colt yesterday with round balls and Triple seven. was shooting off a bench at 25 yards. Shot a six shot one inch hole. Round balls when they group that close together actually tear a ragged hole. I use to be concerned where the sprue was, but no longer. Waste of time. About them not sealing if the sprue rolls to the side, not believing that either as for 1, the ball is supposed to shave a lead ring off it upon seating if it's the correct size. 2, you should be shooting pure lead and it should swage it in the cylinder hole. Nope don't think it will leak.
Sam Fadala did tests years ago where he deformed the nose of round ball vs deformed the base ......Quote:
Originally Posted by MEHecker
Nose made no difference - base deformed messed up accuracy - he was gouging a cross in the ball with a penknife .
I (and most others) usually load sprue up if there is a "noticeable stub" ?????? something I have never seen from a LEE mold though????
There will be a slight flat spot with Lee molds and their tangential cutters. 30 minutes in a rotary tumbler and all balls are what they should be = reasonably round.
Lee ball molds are excellent for 2 to 6 balls at a time, but the Marty's Mold is also excellent and will do 16 balls at a time. Lee has its tangential cutter, Marty's has a resulting sprue that requires flush cutters. As always, I rotary tumble all balls and then they're all as good as their gonna get, which is purty darn good for me.