I bought some 4 blade carbide drills and the radius looks like they may make a nice cavity for a nose punch!
I have not measured them but since they are most probably made in China there is a good chance that they are metric sizes.
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I bought some 4 blade carbide drills and the radius looks like they may make a nice cavity for a nose punch!
I have not measured them but since they are most probably made in China there is a good chance that they are metric sizes.
Not all carbide in the end of drill bits is the same quality. I learned the hard way drilling into a lot of hard stone. If you have a diamond wheel, you could probably shape it to form you need.
I agree that there are different grades of carbide.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE
These have a nice ogive shape like the old Harbor Freight glass drill bits but instead of one piece of carbide it uses 2 more to support the main piece.
I tried to use one of the old HF bits to try to make a swaging die and it broke quickly.
This design looks much stronger!
The newer design HF glass drill bits are strong and I used them to drill holes in granite to mount a dial indicator stand and they worked well.
I have not tried them on metal yet.
Sharpening or reshaping a 4 flute drill can be done but keeping all 4 flutes cutting even and at the same angle is a trick with out a tool grinder. If they arnt cutting even the drill walks off center and cuts over size. They are normally a 118* included angle point not a radius.
You could dress the radius into a silicon carbide wheel and grind it onto the drill then back of the edges with a diamond stone and finish with the same stone
While it wouldnt be carbide a s bit reamer might be better suited
These bits are already the shape that I want.Quote:
Originally Posted by country gent
Can you post a link to the bits?
I have tried to copy a pic but the sites won’t allow it!
Google is your best!
Lowes has them but they are a lot cheaper on eBay.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Drill-Bit...ion/1865227624
Try this link !
Thanks for the link. I have a set on the way.
I just love their description.Quote:
Originally Posted by deltaenterprizes
"High Strength Material: Made of premium carbide, rust and , strong carbide tip, high hardness carbide insert, wear resistant, durable and .
Efficient Design: 4 blade design, low cutting resistance, precise and effortless drilling, can easily penetrate a variety of materials at one time, efficient and time saving. Additional anti slip triangular handle design, stable operation.
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Slim
They look like screw driving bits...
I got mine in a few days ago and made a top punch for my lyman lube sizer from mild steel. I tried drilling with the carbide drill but it wasn't cutting well. I drilled a small pilot hole and then it drilled in very well.
Can you show some pictures? This is a very interesting idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbuck351
These?Quote:
Originally Posted by deltaenterprizes
https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/162...c4f50d31a.jpeg
Says out of stock...Quote:
Originally Posted by deltaenterprizes
And largest diameter is 0.280"/ 7.11mm.
so there's that,
:sad:
.
I've done some drilling on lead and you need to watch because soft lead is very grabby. My 2 cents.
Thanks for the tip! I would have gotten frustrated and might have broken the bit!Quote:
Originally Posted by rbuck351
Cold weather has made my shop time come to a screeching halt!
They are limited in size. The top punch I made was for a .225 boolit. Fortunately Top punches for lube sizers don't have to be full boolit size. The largest in my set measures .288 and should work for up to 30 cal boolits in a lube sizer. The will also work for top punches for point forming on my Swag-o-Matic as they don't have a full ogive. Also rnfp boolits could be made by filling the tip with epoxy or some such.
Although I wasn't planning on drilling lead, they my work for hollow pointing boolits with a bit of oil to keep the lead from smearing.