UPDATE on 25-20 vs 32-20 thread

Hello friends,

A while back I started a discussion to help me choose my retirement rifle. It was to be a gift to myself.

I have always wanted a Marlin 1894 or Winchester 1873 in one of the small blackpowder cartridges and i figured that if I didn't get it now then I would never get it.

I found an original Marlin 1894 on Gunbroker. It was chambered in 32-20. According to the serial number it was built in 1899. The photos looked nice and the gunshop selling it assured me that I could look at it and return it if I din't like it. So I sent them the money.

It showed up at my local FFL and I just got back from doing the paperwork. My FFL also has a 25 yard indoor lane and you can shoot any gun that you are DROS'ing while they hold it for the 10 days.

I have to say I may have a new favorite rifle! It is in beautiful condition for a gun that was built in 1899. It has been restored externally, new blueing, etc. And the bore looks very, very good.

I could only find one box of factory ammo for it. Remington 100 gr LRN rated at 1220 fps in a rifle.

The rifle cycles ammo like a new gun. The action is slick and tight and feels just like one of my new Remlins. No slop and a crisp trigger. The tang is drilled and tapped for a tang sight. The accuracy is pretty good also. I previously pulled one of the rounds of the factory ammo and the bullet is a swaged lead at .312".

I now have a die set and extra brass. Should I get a mold that drops at .314" and size to that? I did not take anything to the range to slug the bore. I was going to but I could not find my 1/4" steel rod. It's lost somewhere in the garage. Maybe tomorrow I will buy another rod and go by the FFL and slug the bore.

Any ways, thanks to every one who contributed to the other thread. It helped a lot.


Steve in N CA

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Sir, lovely gun and a good choice. May you be retired long enough to wear it out!

The mould that I use is a Lee 103gn x 0.313" diameter.

Forgive my ignorance, "hold it for 10 days?" What's up with that?

Until you actually measure the bore and/or throat, any guess would just be a guess.

I would get a Lyman 311008 or one of the reasonably close copies of it and size to whatever your slug says, IF you are planning on <1,500 fps loads.

If on the other hand, you are planning on "high velocity" loads of more than 1,500, I would get the 311316 (GC version of the 311008).

Nice rifle. The old ones just seem to ooze class.

Robert

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Originally Posted by sharps4590

Forgive my ignorance, "hold it for 10 days?" What's up with that?

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That State of California makes the dealer hold the firearm for 10 days after the form 4473 and Dealer's Record of Sale (DROS) are filled out. They call it a "cooling off period", and it used to be 15 days. In the 1960's, it was 3 days, then 5 days, until it went to 15 days. After the NICS system went into effect, the state dropped it back to 10 days as kind of a concession.

Hope this helps.

Fred

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ReloaderFred

That State of California makes the dealer hold the firearm for 10 days after the form 4473 and Dealer's Record of Sale (DROS) are filled out. They call it a "cooling off period", and it used to be 15 days. In the 1960's, it was 3 days, then 5 days, until it went to 15 days. After the NICS system went into effect, the state dropped it back to 10 days as kind of a concession.

Hope this helps.

Fred

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That's right Fred. And a few months ago when the Coronavirus panic hit it was not uncommon for California DOJ to hold up the background checks even longer. I once waited over 30 days. Others have waited 60 days or more. And there is no recourse.

I envy the other states that are still free.

Steve in N CA

If you are retiring it sounds like a good time to move. I think you will be very happy with your retirement present. I would be on the lookout for a mold in the 100gr area and would get one that is one or two thou over bore size. If you can't get the barrel slugged I would get one in the .314 area as it's much easier to size them down than to make them bigger. That is assuming you can shoot a lead boolit in California.

Oh my...that's.....criminal!!! I guess one can get used to anything but man, I feel for you guys & gals out there. I honestly had no idea. I can also honestly say I would not live in California...for a lot more reasons than just that, no offense intended.

I love the 32-20 cartridge. I have 2 S&W revolvers and a modern marlin in 32-20. I'm kinda looking for a SSA in 32-20.

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Originally Posted by sharps4590

Oh my...that's.....criminal!!! I guess one can get used to anything but man, I feel for you guys & gals out there. I honestly had no idea. I can also honestly say I would not live in California...for a lot more reasons than just that, no offense intended.

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No offense taken my friend. I am a California native so I will probably stick it out here. My family roots are in the Missouri/Arkansas line region. Anywhere from Pocahontas AR to Cardwell MO. But we have grandkids and now great grandkids here. It would take dynamite to move my wife.


Steve in N CA

It would be bad enough having to ship a firearm made before 1899 (antique) to an FFF let alone wait 10 days to take possession.

Bill

Ohio background checks are still free-- usually the site on line works well for the FFL dealer.
A better idea would be to run a background check every time we renew our driver's license then use our driver license number to submit on line, less paperwork but what makes sense will never be used


When I was in the 7th grade (age 13) 1960, I began the challenging task of convincing my parents that I needed a .22 caliber rim fire rifle. I earned the money mowing lawns. Finally they agreed with stipulation that it would never leave the house unless my dad was with me- no problem.
My mother completed the order form for a Marlin 80 DL and included a check for the rifle and shipping. The order was completed in my name. Several weeks later it was delivered to our home in my name. I still have a copy of that invoice and that rifle is still very special.
In those days the government still trusted citizens!

Jim

I would not use a steel rod to check the bore, aluminum or brass would be my option.
BD

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Originally Posted by bigdog454

I would not use a steel rod to check the bore, aluminum or brass would be my option.
BD

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No. Aluminum and brass can/will buckle, jamming themselves in the bore. When that happens they are almost impossible to remove without damaging the lands. Ideally use as large a hardened steel rod as can be used with a bore guide at the muzzle. Chamfer the ends lightly, and polish it 'til it shines. A wrap or two of tape at the business end to keep it centered is wise. I've always kept 36" lengths of hard drawn piano wire on hand for this. 3/16" for .22 thru .25 caliber, 1/4" for .30 thru .40 calibers. Sometimes available at hardware stores, easily obtainable on-line.

Soft metals can also embed grit, becoming a lap that will damage the lands.

The worst of all is a wooden dowel.

Every experienced gunsmith will have his own stories.

N.B. I do not know of a better bullet than the 3118, (now 311008), for standard twist .32-20s. I could brag about my Stevens 47, but you wouldn't believe me.

Funny you don’t recommend wood dowel, I’ve been told to use wooden dowel for slugging a bore .
Check out ‘The Cinnabar ‘ on YouTube Mark explains about slugging a bore

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Originally Posted by uscra112

No. Aluminum and brass can/will buckle, jamming themselves in the bore. When that happens they are almost impossible to remove without damaging the lands. Ideally use as large a hardened steel rod as can be used with a bore guide at the muzzle. Chamfer the ends lightly, and polish it 'til it shines. A wrap or two of tape at the business end to keep it centered is wise. I've always kept 36" lengths of hard drawn piano wire on hand for this. 3/16" for .22 thru .25 caliber, 1/4" for .30 thru .40 calibers. Sometimes available at hardware stores, easily obtainable on-line.

Soft metals can also embed grit, becoming a lap that will damage the lands.

The worst of all is a wooden dowel.

Every experienced gunsmith will have his own stories.

N.B. I do not know of a better bullet than the 3118, (now 311008), for standard twist .32-20s. I could brag about my Stevens 47, but you wouldn't believe me.

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Thank you. This is exactly why I use steel rods. I cut them to length and clean them up. I then bevel the ends like you say. Then I wrap Electrical tape about every 6 inches along the length.

When I first started out i broke a wooden dowel. And I have a bent aluminum rod leaning against my toolbox.

I should have known the wooden dowel would break after snapping a ramrod in my muzzleloader.


Steve in N CA