lube melting point?

So I am playing with a bees wax mix, some with TC bore butter, some with frog lube. As best I can tell the melting point is around 125F-130F. Melting point of bees wax by itself is supposed to be around 144F. I put 2 bullet with each mix in the car on the dash and lost track of time but they were at 141F and had melted their lube off when I checked.

Is 130F an ok melting point? I would prefer it to be higher.


I though about the possible additives

parafin wax, melting point is between 115F and 154F.
tallow, melting point 95F to 104F
petroleum jelly is between 100F to 130F

what can I add to increase the melting point?

Add microcrystalline wax … which also has a long hydro carbon molecular chain

Microcrystalline waxes are tougher, more flexible and generally higher in melting point than paraffin wax. The fine crystal structure also enables microcrystalline wax to bind solvents or oil, and thus prevent the sweating-out of compositions.

Melting points … 140 -200 degrees
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microcrystalline_wax

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Originally Posted by Shadow9mm

SNIP>>>

what can I add to increase the melting point?

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Soap.

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Originally Posted by Shadow9mm

Is 130F an ok melting point? I would prefer it to be higher.
What can I add to increase the melting point?

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I think that the melting temperature should be determined by how hot your firearm gets during a typical shoot session and the type of propellant powder your using.

If your shooting rapid fire with cartridges loaded with Titegroup, a propellant known for producing high temperatures that quickly heat a barrel quite hot, then a high temperature lube would be my choice.

If your shooting BP gun powder a lube that melts to get wet quickly would be best because you need to keep the heavy powder fouling soft so a lot of it can be push out by the next shot.
BP does heat a barrel very quickly.

Shooting a mid burn speed nitro powder than doesn’t burn as hot and your slow firing maintaining a warm but not hot barrel a lube the softens in that heat but doesn’t liquify would be good.

Other posters will need to advise you on the ingredients required to raise your lubes melting point.
Maybe a bit of Carnauba wax?

Check the SDS of lubes. The safety Data Sheet show whats in it.

I’m assuming you’re making a lube for black powder since Bore Butter is in your recipe. That’s more than likely causing the problem you’re trying to avoid. I’m a big fan of Gato Feo’s #1 lube for cartridges and also wool wads for percussion cap pistols. I live in Central Florida and don’t have a problem with it “running” in our summer heat. I don’t tempt fate by leaving my ammunition in the car; but as you did, it would be an interesting test. By weight: 2:2:1; canning paraffin, mutton tallow and bees wax respectively

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Originally Posted by Castaway

I’m assuming you’re making a lube for black powder since Bore Butter is in your recipe. That’s more than likely causing the problem you’re trying to avoid. I’m a big fan of Gato Feo’s #1 lube for cartridges and also wool wads for percussion cap pistols. I live in Central Florida and don’t have a problem with it “running” in our summer heat. I don’t tempt fate by leaving my ammunition in the car; but as you did, it would be an interesting test. By weight: 2:2:1; canning paraffin, mutton tallow and bees wax respectively

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I don't think it's a BP thing.
Shadow posted this in another thread.

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Originally Posted by Shadow9mm

Been doing some reading. Read though the top posts on lube mixes but am not trying to use petroleum based products. no oil, grease, ATF, petroleum jelly. I am aslo really on the fence with crisco... I know its a modern animal fat substitute but it seems odd. I am also on the fence with natural oils like olive as they can go rancid.

From my reading back to black powder days, the traditional lube was a 50/50 mix of bees wax and tallow. but that does not tell me much about the needs for modern high velocity projectiles.

My main goal is a good lube that has minimal smoke. I have some cast bullets I bought that smoke a fair bit and really did not like it.

My friend and I are both getting into casting He is testing pan lubing, and I am hoping to try it today. I am also testing lee liquid alox, and am thinking about trying powder coating as well, but wanted to try traditional lube first.

My friend is using a mix of bees wax and frog lube. he does not have a ratio. he has just kinda been adding frog lube until it seemed about right to him.

I am trying bees wax and TC bore butter.

His first try was too hard, he did not add enough frog lube we think. it would bend then snap off.

Has anyone else tried these combinations? I was thinking of starting with a 70/30 bees wax bore butter mix, and and adding more bore butter until I got the right mix. knowing a good frog lube mix would be good as well.

other than animal fat are there any other, very simple, somewhat natural softeners I can add to the bees wax?

combined we are casting for 38spl, 357 mag, 44spl, and 44 mag so far, but may be adding other calibers in the future.

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Perhaps Ben’s Red would better suit the OP needs.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ght=bens%20red

You need beeswax to harden the lube at higher temperatures. I doubt if paraffin has a melting point of 154*F, however a lot of people do use it in their lubes. It also depends a lot on the other ingredients in the lube. There are lots of recipes out there for lubes. Pick one and start experimenting, or maybe there is a commercial advertised for especially higher temperatures.

Lithium Grease ... Like Lucas Red-N-Tacky Lithium ... It doesn't melt , at the temp. that beeswax melts ... R-N-T just gets soft ... you have to heat , blend and mix the beeswax and Lithium grease three times to get a good blend . Heat to no more than 145 degrees F , beeswax will burn at 185 degrees F and do not go higher as the flash point of beeswax is about 400 degrees F ... it will burst into flames .
Heat beeswax to 145 to 147 degrees F and no more ... the Lithium R-N-T will not melt , it will soften and must be mechanically blended into the beeswax . An old Crock Pot works well for heating and blending .

Note ... an extremely good boolit lube is Lithi-Bee :
1 part Lithium Grease ( Lucas R-N-T) and 3 parts Beeswax . I have never had a problem with this lube melting out of lubed boolits or loaded ammo with lubed boolits .
Gary

Tag for info.

I did a few experiments to elevate the melting temperature of FWFL. I found a combination of saponified beeswax & sodium stearate (both soaps) that significantly increased the melting temperature. However, if stearic acid was used (eg FWWFL), the melting temperature was not increased. I’m slowly working on something I think is reasonable.
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Wax melting in a hot car may be a moot concern. I wonder if the press-fit between the brass & lead is sufficient to contain the molten lube. Make a dummy round, heat it up, and see if the lube runs out the empty primer pocket… if not, check for residue in the shell after the round cools & you pull the bullet.

White label bp lube melts at 185. Thanks

Some cheap crayons melt pretty hot.