Thought id try some buckshot. Which lee would be best for general use and first try at it?it?
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Thought id try some buckshot. Which lee would be best for general use and first try at it?it?
For what gauge, and what purpose?
Well I once read that pathologists say that #4 buck is the hardest wound to stop bleeding.:-)
I cast #0000 (.375") buck and let me tell you they are devastating. All 8 balls inside a 19" circle at 40 yards. Winchester pump full choke 12 ga. The original crowd pleaser.
12g and as I said just to try out. Is the larger buck easier to cast than the smaller one?
Personally I would go with #1's or #4's.
I had nothing but trouble trying to load 00 buck. If I did get the stack right when I crimped each buckshot pushed a spot through the hull.
9 #1 (.30 cal) buck self stack in the hull into 3 layers of 3. It was easy to get a good crimp and I had no issues with them chambering.
I dug deep into my memory and remembered old goose hunters loading their own and using cornmeal as filler.
So that is what I do. I cut overshot cards from white plastic milk jugs to keep the filler in place.
I have sharpshooter molds in #1 and 00 buck/#4. The #1 buck likes to run, the 00/#4 hates to run. So I run the #1.
Well, here is my 2 cents. I have both the Lee and Martys molds. They are both a pain in the patootie to cut off all the individual balls. The one that I use the most is this one from Track of the wolf.
This is exactly the Mold I have been looking for. Now all I have to do is finding a Supplier here in Canada.Quote:
Originally Posted by foesgth
Thanks for the Info
Cheers
To a certain extent the larger shot is easier. There's not a whole lot of difference in casting 2 buck through 0000 buck. 4 buck and smaller sizes like F, T, and BB can be tougher. The biggest advantage to the larger shot is you need less of them for a load. It's not a huge difference, and I wouldn't consider it in making a choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonp
If you are trying to make some fun lower recoil loads using normal lead shot wads, then you will want to stick in the range of 2 buck to 00 buck. There's nothing against 3 buck and 4 buck, but they don't offer a whole lot in 12 gauge, unless you have a specific reason to choose them. 2 buck stacks in 4's really nice in a lead shot wad. 1 buck stacks in 3's well. 0 buck is kind of an oddball size but it will stack in loose 2's. 00 buck is the standard 12 gauge size, and it stacks perfectly in 2's in a wad. There's nothing wrong with 000 buck either, but you will typically have to trim wad petals off.
For Lee molds, there are really only two that make sense for you. The 00 buck mold, and the .310" (1.5 buck) 6 cavity RB mold. I've used both molds, and both work. The 6 cavity mold is slower overall, but its 1 and done. For only doing a few pounds of shot, this one is a little nicer. The 00 buck mold is faster, but you do have to cut a number of the balls apart after you cast them. Plan on about 2 minutes per pound of shot to clip them apart. A flush cutters works well. I'm told a dog toe nail clippers works even better. Alternatively, many people load them without cutting them. I imagine it depends on the alloy you use, but they are known to separate during firing on their own. If you are casting at a good temperature, about half of them separate on their own from the fall from the mold anyway.
Track ships loading and casting gear to Canada without any issues. The trick might be to order enough to make it worth the shipping cost.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graybeard96
I believe that they may have a deal with Lee to be the only retailer of the 6 cavity ball molds. Never seen them anywhere else.
Correct, they do ship to Canada so I ordered one last night. Shipping cost and exchange rate are panful but I am old and surly will forget the cost soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by vagrantviking
Btw.
This 6 Cavity .319 round Ball Mold is Custom made by Lee for "Track of the Wolf".
Note: This Mold is not listed in the Lee Catalogue.
Thanks
Regarding loading 00 Buckshot in a 12 Ga. You probably know that already and I certainly don't want to be a wise Guy,Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostHawk
Substituting the Wad for a Gas Seal like BP sells and calls BPGS, the 00 Buck will stack perfectly without any Bulging the
Hull.
Cheers
My Mold just arrived. Thanks TotW for quick shipping and also many Thanks to "foesgth" pointing me in the right direction.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graybeard96
Total damage in Canadian $ 164.11 which includes Canadian Taxes and Brocker Fee.
All good & Cheers
I ordered this one. Thanks for all of the advice. Using a gift card from my company im out $5 or soQuote:
Originally Posted by foesgth
I'm now using a Lee .319 two cavity for an almost 0 buck. It may be slow, but it's cheaper than the TOTW six cavity and inside of 20 minutes I have enough balls to satisfy the shells I need to reload.
It depends on how you are going to load your hulls and how many pellets per layer you are looking for.
If you are going to use shot containers then the correct diameter for 3 pellets in each layer is 0.311". It is #1 1/2 or #1.
For wad loading you need 0.333" diameter, and it is US 00 or UK SG.
I do not use loads with 2 pellets in a layer, so do your own math if you want them.
The next smaller size, which gives you an optimal loading is 7 pellets in a layer. In a shot container it calls for F shot. Without shot container it is FF.
Any other size will result in less than optimal layout of pellets.
This is your bible: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shot_(pellet)
I have the LEE string type 18 cavity molds in #4, #1, 00, 000 and double cavity 0.311, 0.319, 0.360". I find it easier to use the double cavity molds as compared to the 18 cavity buck shot molds. My 0.360" is a Lyman steel mold, it is a quick cycling mold.
For 12 ga with a AA clone 7/8 oz wad I like 9 - 0.311 or 6 - 0.360. I can fit (8) 00 in the same shot cup. Going to experiment with 3-1/2" hulls when I find some time.
MP Molds offer an 8 cavity .310, .320 and .330. I use the .310 and .330, easy to use and right on the nose for diameter.