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Hey all. Anyone have experience Swaging lead slugs in Swage dies with smaller metplat made for jacket projectiles? I've seen examples of pure lead from my .264 dies from Corbin but I'd be afraid of the ejection pin pushing right through the lead and sticking that slug in the point form die. Anyone have good or bad experiences trying this out of curiosity?
I've done it, just make sure to lube the lead slug first. Just go slow adjusting the die until you get a fully formed bullet otherwise you may push lead up into the ejection pin hole.
Interesting. The example I had gotten shows the lead that's definitely flowed up into the ejection hole. What calibers have you done all lead rifle slugs in?
It's ok if it flows up a little. I've done 224 and 358 but I only did it to check the die for smoothness and dimensions. Definitely not to shoot for me. Not sure what your intentions are on this?
I reformed some pulled 22LR bullets to use in my 22 Hornet and did not have a problem!
No real intentions to do all lead slugs with the amount of jacket options I have... just curiosity. I saw that projectile and was wondering if it was something other swagers do or feasible as a repeatable operation.Quote:
Originally Posted by MIBULLETS
Ok, but those do already have a lubricant on them, and as long as the velocity isn't too high you shouldn't have excessive leading. Interesting idea btw!Quote:
Originally Posted by deltaenterprizes
As others have suggested, I do not fire lead slugs in rifle calibers because of leading problems in barrels. If you do it, it can be preferable to allow the lead to flow into the ejection hole, so that the ejection pin can push against the tiny cylinder of metal in the ejection hole and therefore start and release the bullet from the die for ejection, then just cut off the nip of lead on the tip of the bullet. This can be useful technique, not just for all lead bullets, but also for jacketed lead soft point bullets. An all lead bullet can be made and paper patched to be fired without leading the barrels, but there is a reason nobody does that anymore, except a few historical buffs. On my big bores, my dies have larger ejections pins and make a very nice lead tipped soft point. You can order your dies this way in any caliber if you want to make lead tips and you can also buy additional lead pointing dies which will spruce up the deformation left by ejection pins on lead tips. The 2nd bullet down in picture below is a 416 caliber, 4S ogive bullet. Although it is a jacketed soft point, an all lead bullet would point exactly the same.
Attachment 320976
I agree 100%. I was only mentioning the lead flow into the ejection pin hole because if you are not careful, it can be quite easy to fill it. I know of people who have locked up an ejection pin doing this. It normally would only happen with a smaller caliber/thinner pin though.Quote:
Originally Posted by rolltide999
Nice looking bullets! What thickness of tubing are you using?
Mibullets,
The tubing used for these jackets is 3/8" "L" rigid copper tubing which actually measures 1/2". Tube closed on one end, and then reduced to caliber. Tube thickness is roughly .033.
Nice, I use 1/4" L for my 358 caliber jackets. I have also used the softer refrigeration tubing as well and it works about the same with my die set.Quote:
Originally Posted by rolltide999
Mibullets,
That is great. I am hoping to add a 1/4" set for making .375, .358, .338. Who made you dies?
Dave Corbin diesQuote:
Originally Posted by rolltide999