$69.95 British Enfields

Got a flyer from SOG, Enfield#1 Mk.3 drill rifles, Fireing pin broken and bolt face welded, Where else can you buy a Brit. for that price. Orderd on Monday and got it today, With shipping $14.00 about to get it here,
Its all complete, wood not broken, dark color but will to clean to a nice color,
Bolt face not welded, a nail was pushed into hole and came right out, The firing pin is broken , got a no.4 that looks like it will work. Bore cleaned up and shines, slugs at .314, looks very nice. DP is stamped here and there,
I asked for good wood and got it, The action looks just like my other one thats in 308, This is 303 British, If you want a winter project, This is a great deal, Let me know what youall think and if you get one, please post, Thanks- Joe

Hey I just got my grand dads 1916 bsa 303 was trying to get a guess at what type of gun it is. I know it has the kings crown g r b s a 1916 sht le 111 *on the weapon.any ideas.

Did you have to prove/show FFL? Their website (Southern Ohio Guns right) will not display the search results for average joe trying to find the listing. A great price, but I haven't gotten my C&R yet. Bulldogger

Nice find! A buddy of mine has TWO Enfields that are almost complete, but missing various parts. Buying the parts individually costs a bundle, but buying a Drill Rifle will be perfect for fixing the old girls up!

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Originally Posted by Bulldogger

Did you have to prove/show FFL? Their website (Southern Ohio Guns right) will not display the search results for average joe trying to find the listing. A great price, but I haven't gotten my C&R yet. Bulldogger

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From their website:

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I used my C&R to get them, Just got back from the range with it, 100 yds. using a tree for a rest off hand I put 10 shots in a 6 in. group, Jacketed bullets, 180 gr. 40 gr. 3031, bullets .003 under size, shot about 6 in low. cases not bulged on web, headspacing fine, I used a no. 4 firing pin in it. This is good fun gun, Wood needs scraped down and refinished. GET ONE.
I wished we all lived on the same block.

$69.95 what a rip off,:kidding: I paid $59.95 for a #4Mk2, arsenal reconditioned, shot 2 inches out of the box with the 1st load I tried. Of course that was 17 years ago. It is a fine rifle though.

Bob

Sounds tempting but why do I feel the one I get WILL be welded shut and useless

That would be my luck too, but you can pick up replacement bolts, bolt heads etc on the web for less than 20.00.

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Originally Posted by 218bee

Sounds tempting but why do I feel the one I get WILL be welded shut and useless

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If the bolt head is weld shut you drill it out from the other end, The old firing could be cut off more, drill it out by the collar and add and fit in a piece of drill rod, and shape to fit.

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Originally Posted by smokemjoe

Got a flyer from SOG, Enfield#1 Mk.3 drill rifles, Fireing pin broken and bolt face welded, Where else can you buy a Brit. for that price. Orderd on Monday and got it today, With shipping $14.00 about to get it here,
Its all complete, wood not broken, dark color but will to clean to a nice color,
Bolt face not welded, a nail was pushed into hole and came right out, The firing pin is broken , got a no.4 that looks like it will work. Bore cleaned up and shines, slugs at .314, looks very nice. DP is stamped here and there,
I asked for good wood and got it, The action looks just like my other one thats in 308, This is 303 British, If you want a winter project, This is a great deal, Let me know what youall think and if you get one, please post, Thanks- Joe

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Could you toss up a few pics of the Enfield?

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Originally Posted by smokemjoe

If the bolt head is weld shut you drill it out from the other end, The old firing could be cut off more, drill it out by the collar and add and fit in a piece of drill rod, and shape to fit.

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Don't drill out a previously welded Enfield bolthead, the heat treatment of the bolthead is almost certainly compromised, and the bolt head takes a tremendous amount of stress on firing.
Shattered boltheads are the single major cause of injury or death in cases of action failure of Enfield rifles.
The bolthead is not something you want to experiment with.

Replacement boltheads can be ordered from many sources. I've bought boltheads from Springfield Sporters on several occasions, they don't cost that much.
Better to spend a few bucks than take a chance on a compromised bolthead.

That said I can't really say that reactivating a DP marked rifle is a good idea in any case.
While some Drill Rifles were simply obsolete rifles marked with painted bands to denote how badly worn or out of spec the rifle was, Green meaning safe to fire, Yellow meaning reasonably safe to fire but not recommended, and Red meaning unsafe and potentially very dangerous.

DP markings on the otherhand mean practically everything about the rifle was unservicable or unsafe. They actually assembled many of these from scrapped parts that did not pass inspections, and never meant for these to be fired ever again.

A ZF mark found on an otherwise nice looking rifle means it had issues that were bad enough that the action body should be chopped and the rest perhaps salvaged for spares.

Only way I'd consider reactivating a Drill Rifle would be if I could have the vital parts magnifluxed and the action body properly gauged.

Also some have found reactivated DP rifles in regular stock sets when they should have been in fore ends drilled to reveal holes drilled in the chambers.
I've seen photos of the result of firing one of these, it wasn't pretty.

For 69 bucks the DP rifles might be an economical source for parts to restore a previously Bubba'ed SMLE, but I can't say I'd recommend reactivating any of these.

PS
A loose charger guide bridge is a sign of a cracked or spread receiver, first thing to look for.

Thanks- That make me think more now.

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Originally Posted by Multigunner

Don't drill out a previously welded Enfield bolthead, the heat treatment of the bolthead is almost certainly compromised, and the bolt head takes a tremendous amount of stress on firing.
Shattered boltheads are the single major cause of injury or death in cases of action failure of Enfield rifles.
The bolthead is not something you want to experiment with.

Replacement boltheads can be ordered from many sources. I've bought boltheads from Springfield Sporters on several occasions, they don't cost that much.
Better to spend a few bucks than take a chance on a compromised bolthead.

That said I can't really say that reactivating a DP marked rifle is a good idea in any case.
While some Drill Rifles were simply obsolete rifles marked with painted bands to denote how badly worn or out of spec the rifle was, Green meaning safe to fire, Yellow meaning reasonably safe to fire but not recommended, and Red meaning unsafe and potentially very dangerous.

DP markings on the otherhand mean practically everything about the rifle was unservicable or unsafe. They actually assembled many of these from scrapped parts that did not pass inspections, and never meant for these to be fired ever again.

A ZF mark found on an otherwise nice looking rifle means it had issues that were bad enough that the action body should be chopped and the rest perhaps salvaged for spares.

Only way I'd consider reactivating a Drill Rifle would be if I could have the vital parts magnifluxed and the action body properly gauged.

Also some have found reactivated DP rifles in regular stock sets when they should have been in fore ends drilled to reveal holes drilled in the chambers.
I've seen photos of the result of firing one of these, it wasn't pretty.

For 69 bucks the DP rifles might be an economical source for parts to restore a previously Bubba'ed SMLE, but I can't say I'd recommend reactivating any of these.

PS
A loose charger guide bridge is a sign of a cracked or spread receiver, first thing to look for.

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Very good advice,I was hoping some one would give it before I did

Thanks for the info on the different colours and types of DP markings, etc Multigunner. I knew some of that, but I'm always delighted to learn more.

FWIW, I'd consider one as a source of decent wood, some parts, and the like, but I'd be very hesitant about reactivating one.

Incidentally, I see that DP Enfields are starting to show up on Gunjoker - with a mark up in price. I wonder whether they are these?

I can hear myself cussing the welded bolt already, which is without a doubt EXACTLY what I would get if I ordered one.
'
Good Luck to youi on your find!

I will show my age I one time bought a case of brand new No 4 Mk 1 rifles still in the original cosmolean with bayonets and frogs. 10 rifles for $100 out the door with no tax at the time and no paper work required. They were selling for $15 retail but I asked for a case price and that is what I paid at international guns in 1964. Oh for the good old days.

Same as the way of the Swede Mauser Nick, 17 years ago I was buying #1 select numbers match M96's from Century by the case for $59.95 each.........................

...............last one I saw at a gun show --- and it was a crummy example................was $249.95...........................

Art

got one of the australian # 1, haven't shot it but very little,had it for a long time, just got into something else. very nice rifle.

TTC

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Originally Posted by roaddogjohn

Hey I just got my grand dads 1916 bsa 303 was trying to get a guess at what type of gun it is. I know it has the kings crown g r b s a 1916 sht le 111 *on the weapon.any ideas.

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The King's crown and GR was the Royal seal (GR=George Rex).
"bsa"= BSA, Birmingham Small Arms (the factory where it was made).
1916= year of manufacture.
Sht Le III*= Short Magazine Lee Enfield (No.1) Mark III* (the star means it doesn't have some of the features of the No.1MkIII, ie: magazine cut-off, rear volley sight, etc. Wartime exigencies.)

The main battle rifle for the British Tommy for 25 years.

Ditto on checking out the Enfield Drill Purpose rifles. Look in the Enfield section at Surplusrifleforum.com, there is an extensive discussion on what to look for in both returning a DP rifle to service, and most importantly why they were classified as DP in the first place.

That being said I got one too! I am going to use the wood & metal furniture to return a Lithgow No.1MKIII to it's original configuration. I bought one last spring that had been "sporterized" but the barrel had not been cut. In searching for all the proper stuff to restore it, it was going to be expensive, but the DP rifle I got was a very cost effective way to complete the project.