Replacement rolling block trigger spring

Got this from www.rollingblockparts.com and I'd bet some of you here have this in your rifle, yes? You like it? No like it?


The trigger spring is pointed out by the yeller arrow.

http://images17.fotki.com/v374/photo...F0001vb-vi.jpg

The replacement is a pretty darn simple piece of piano wire spring stock with a simple bend. Cost $10. The reduction in trigger tension is humongous. But I've not put it all back together yet so I don't know how its going to work in reality.

http://images38.fotki.com/v231/photo...F0805vb-vi.jpg

Dutch

This is an old fix for the hard triggers on rolling block rifles. It works very well and makes a hard to shoot gun a pleasure to use.

Good morning
So why did the Roller and most U.S. rifles have that "humungus" trigger pull ?
Well as the sarge told me in Boot... "cause you maget ...... do not have the ...... sense to keep your ...... trigger actuator off the ..... trigger while you are walking about on your..... feet. Makes me wonder sometimes how many lives were saved BECAUSE the army specified those Godzilla trigger springs ?
Merry Christmas all !

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Originally Posted by missionary5155

Good morning
So why did the Roller and most U.S. rifles have that "humungus" trigger pull ?
Well as the sarge told me in Boot... "cause you maget ...... do not have the ...... sense to keep your ...... trigger actuator off the ..... trigger while you are walking about on your..... feet. Makes me wonder sometimes how many lives were saved BECAUSE the army specified those Godzilla trigger springs ?
Merry Christmas all !

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Probably a lot of truth in what Old Sarge said. I was running a cruit through a live fire, fire and movement exercise. I hollered something at him about safety and this kid turns around with his rifle pointed UP range, finger on the trigger. I caught the barrel prior to it being pointed at my face. I explained to him the error of his ways with all of the proper military expletives thrown in so that he knew I was serious.

Bob

Most french Bolt Action military rifles have no safety, because they found that carrying a rifle with the chamber empty meant no accidental discharges, while safeties were not only unreliable but many of their troops weren't that diligent about being sure the safety was engaged.
They'd had a string of fatal AD , some suspected of being murders with "I thought it was on safe" being a convenient excuse.

Generally they carried the rifle, if not slung, with bolt handle straight up as a positive cue that it wasn't ready to fire.

I prefer a fairly heavy trigger with a medium long pull, but smooth and with some stacking like a good double action only not so long. Hair triggers are for range only. A local kid loosing his jaw to a shotgun blast convinced me of that.


PS
Any suggestions on rebuilding a No.4 Remington?
I'd like to replace the block with a centerfire block and fitt a .32 short barrel to it.

The rifle is a beat up relic, so no collector value left. About all thats salvagable is the receiver, hammer, triger, stock and buttplate. The receiver needs some welding and reshaping at the front, someone beat it with a hammer trying to tighten the barrel fit. Its a takedown and the lever is still with it.

I just put a washer under the factory spring, worked the same way.:razz:

Timely topic!

A week, or so ago I took possession of an 1871 Remington RB Pistol. It appears having been fired very little; pristine bore. Get this, the trigger pull is in excess of 30lbs! So, it will definitely be modified. The washer idea is brilliant Nitro! I'm planning to use copper shims.

BTW
Nice looking action DutchMan!

GRB

Does anyone know if these new replacement springs will work on a Swede 1867 or 1889 action??

On a 43 Egyptian I put a set screw in the hammer full cock notch so you could adjust the engagement and got a very light let off. But due to that heavy trigger spring it would often force the trigger forward and it would catch the safety notch. I took the trigger spring out and with a medium cut file, I worked down both sides of the spring equally and reduced the pull and stopped the safety notch engagement which gave a very nice trigger let off. I'd seen this done with Colt SAA hammers so thought it might work with the RB spring and it did. I'm thinking about getting one of piano wire springs for my 38-55 custom roller though.
McLintock

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Originally Posted by Dutchman

The replacement is a pretty darn simple piece of piano wire spring stock with a simple bend. Dutch

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The main spring in the old retrobate's Pedersoli rolling block fractured about 1/2 inch from the end (towards the screw, IIRC). There is a technique in one of Frank DeHass' books, a 1/8 inch rod, bent up at the end, fits into a shallow drilled hole on the underside of the hammer. There is a small ring of CRS silver soldered back on the straight part of the rod. A coil spring fits on the rod, pushing against the collar. The rod then goes into a through drilled hole in a 1/4" square piece of CRS. The square guide then simply fits up against the existing spring screw and the stock keeps it in place...

Ever tried to get replacement Pedersoli parts?

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Originally Posted by RGRWJB

Does anyone know if these new replacement springs will work on a Swede 1867 or 1889 action??

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They work very well. I have an 89 that was converted to 40-65 for deer hunting and IIRC the let off is around 3 to 4lbs.

Bob

Beautiful chunk of firewood there Bob.

Robert

Thanks Robert. The gentleman at Tree Bone took care of me on that one, can't say enough good about those folks. The real project was not messing up that stock when I fitted the curved butt plate. That was my first time doing such a project and it came out well although it took me more than 8 hours to get it right.

Bob

Getting back to those music wire spring conversions for a moment?

If any of you know how to operate a set of needle nose pliers and some cutters you can find various sizes of music wire from the K&S rack at most better radio control or model railroad hobby shops in your area. And $10 will buy you a really good lot of it so you have lots to play with for sizes and trigger feel.

The sizes you'll find the most used are .025, 1/32 (or .032), .037, .045 and .050. I'd likely buy a piece of 1/16(.062) and .020 while you're there.

If you tinker with guns much at all you'll find an assortment like this is VERY handy even if you never make your own springs from it. But it's there and it's springy so......

Hi Dutchman,

I bought the same spring for my 7 mm R - RB ! I have not installed it yet! :<(
I have to have the spring on the shelf, for about 6-8 months now! Maybe this will kick start me, to get off my as-!

broomhandle

Last week I made a new trigger spring for a #1 roller from a hacksaw blade. It works great and made big improvement in the trigger pull.

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Originally Posted by Multigunner

PS
Any suggestions on rebuilding a No.4 Remington?
I'd like to replace the block with a centerfire block and fitt a .32 short barrel to it.

The rifle is a beat up relic, so no collector value left. About all thats salvagable is the receiver, hammer, triger, stock and buttplate. The receiver needs some welding and reshaping at the front, someone beat it with a hammer trying to tighten the barrel fit. Its a takedown and the lever is still with it.

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There are a number of us who shoot #4s in both .32 rimfire and .32 centerfire (short and long colt). I also have a #4 relined in .22 and a #2 in .32 extra long rimfire that I shoot using reloadable cases I made myself. There are all lots of fun. There was a long running discussion in the rimfire forum that coverall all this in detail:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ght=reloadable

Glad I found this thread. Recently purchased a clean all matching Huskvarna rolling block 12.7x44 in full military trim, made in 1872. I love it and have worked up a decent load. The limiting factors are sights and the trigger. I refuse to do anything that would permanently alter this fine old rifle so I use a stick on peep for my shooting glasses but needed a way to help the trigger without permanently altering it. The rifle weighs nine pounds and I can pick it up by a cocked trigger without it releasing.

I make trigger return springs from .045" piano wire. It can drop an old military Roller from 10-12 lbs. down to around 3 lbs. Make sure to oil the pivot points and contact points with a drop of Kroil also, and it will drop even more!

This afternoon I did a little honing and shimed the return spring up .062" not much change. I will either buy or build a wire spring.

PS
Any suggestions on rebuilding a No.4 Remington?
I'd like to replace the block with a centerfire block and fitt a .32 short barrel to it.

The rifle is a beat up relic, so no collector value left. About all thats salvagable is the receiver, hammer, triger, stock and buttplate. The receiver needs some welding and reshaping at the front, someone beat it with a hammer trying to tighten the barrel fit. Its a takedown and the lever is still with it.[/QUOTE]


I don't think you will ever locate a center fire breach for a #4. The only ones I have seen were done by a gunsmith.

It is possible to get a full size roller down to a 2 pound trigger pull. The old spring can be filed down but takes some time. Usually the hammer is a little soft so building it up with hard welding rod and recutting the full cock notch gives a harder surface, less drag. Changing the angle 1-2 degrees will make the trigger pull a bunch lighter. This is best left to someone who knows how to do it.

I lowered the trigger pull on my roller buy thinning the trigger spring, and drill and tapping for an engagement screw in the hammer.
Lowered the pull to under 2# it's pretty light but I only shoot BPCRS. And it's safe hammer won't drop if you drop the butt on some rubber padding while cocked.

Last night I dug through my box o gun springs and found a leg of a round wire torsion spring that was .045" and long enough to make the spring, the difference is like daylight and dark. Thanks for advice guys, can't wait to shoot the ole girl again.

Mr. Taylor, if you have the 22 breach block could you make a barrel bushing off center ( up or down, whichever way works ) to put the firing pin in the center of the .32 ? I made one to convert my .32 RF to 22 LR ( otherwise the firing pin wouldn't hit the rim of the 22 ) just a thought.

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Originally Posted by enfield

Mr. Taylor, if you have the 22 breach block could you make a barrel bushing off center ( up or down, whichever way works ) to put the firing pin in the center of the .32 ? I made one to convert my .32 RF to 22 LR ( otherwise the firing pin wouldn't hit the rim of the 22 ) just a thought.

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I'm not John, but I think I have the answer. I have a Zettler Bros. Ballard built off a #6 Schuetzen centerfire model. The barrel on it is a .22 Short, but the action still uses a centerfire firing pin. Zettlers cut the threaded shank off center to the bore of the gun, so it could fire the .22RF cartridge, but not alter the firing pin.
By doing the threads off center, the gun is able to be equipped with two barrels, and not need two breechblocks for CF and RF operation.

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Originally Posted by nitroproof

I just put a washer under the factory spring, worked the same way.:razz:

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Same here. Works well.

Noah

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ohland

The main spring in the old retrobate's Pedersoli rolling block fractured about 1/2 inch from the end (towards the screw, IIRC). There is a technique in one of Frank DeHass' books, a 1/8 inch rod, bent up at the end, fits into a shallow drilled hole on the underside of the hammer. There is a small ring of CRS silver soldered back on the straight part of the rod. A coil spring fits on the rod, pushing against the collar. The rod then goes into a through drilled hole in a 1/4" square piece of CRS. The square guide then simply fits up against the existing spring screw and the stock keeps it in place...

Ever tried to get replacement Pedersoli parts?

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yes its easy vti carries what anyone needs.

Pull the wire out of and old lawn mower throttle cable to make RB trigger springs., Bend a one leg wire leg as shown above for a nice light Target gun or a U shaped two-legged spring will give it a firm feel for a hunting gun. You can also bend the wire to tweak it to your liking!

Made my trigger spring for a#5 RB by filing (Dremel) a hacksaw blade down same size as original, works great.


coffee's ready, Hootmix.