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Thought I had this stuff printed somewhere, but can't seem to find it. Can someone tell me the melting points in degrees Fahrenheit for pure lead, 30 to 1, common ww's, and linotype? It doesn't have to be precise, and I know alloys vary a lot. This time I'll write it on the casting cabinet wall................:-?
Temps in F
Pure Lead 621
Monotype 512
LinoType 462
WW 560 (Per MSDS sheet)
10:1 563
20:1 590
30:1 600
Perfect! Thank you. :grin:
Make it a sticky! I'll be wondering the same thing some day and won't have it at hand:castmine:
This was a quick answer to what I needed to know. I had been melting and casting ingots from ww and doing just fine. Then I went to the stick on tape weights and could hardly get them to melt for anything. Looks like I need another 60' to get them to melt right.
Thanks,
Curt
I found this chart in looking around...
http://www.tpub.com/content/neets/14...14176_74_1.jpg
Here is the link to the page for reference:
http://www.tpub.com/content/neets/14...s/14176_74.htm
Found this here: http://www.weights-and-measures.com/index.html
-38° = mercury (metal)
236° = sulpher (metal)
350° - 450° = babbitt metals (metal)
423° = selenium (metal)
450° = tin (metal)
520° = bismuth (metal)
610° = cadmium (metal)
621° = lead (metal)
715° - 720° = zinc die casting alloy (metal)
786° = zinc (metal)
1166° = antimony (metal)
1204° = magnesium (metal)
1218° = cast aluminum & drawn aluminum (metal)
1562° = barium (metal)
1692° = manganese bronze & phosphor bronze & tobin bronze (metal)
1700° - 1850° = cast red brass & cast yellow brass & drawn brass (metal)
1762° = silver (metal)
1945° = gold (metal)
1981° = cast copper & drawn copper (metal)
2000° = white cast iron (metal)
2100° - 2350° = grey cast iron (metal)
2237° = manganese (metal)
2400° - 2700° = stainless steel (metal)
2400° - 2750° = carbon steel (metal)
2570° = hard steel (metal)
2588° = silicon (metal)
2600° - 2750° = cast steel (metal)
2646° = nickel (metal)
2690° = mild steel (metal)
2696° = cobalt (metal)
2700° - 2750° = wrought iron (metal)
2750° = chromium (metal)
2768° = pure iron (metal)
2820° = palladium (metal)
3090° = zirconium (metal)
3182° = vanadium (metal)
3191° = platinum (metal)
3272° = beryllium (metal)
4352° = uranium (metal)
4532° = molybdenum (metal)
5252° = tantalum (metal)
5432° = tungsten (metal)
6332° = carbon (metal)
563° = solder (9 parts wt. lead & 1 part wt. tin) (metal)
529° = solder (8 parts wt. lead & 2 parts wt. tin) (metal)
504° = solder (7 parts wt. lead & 3 parts wt. tin) (metal)
464° = solder (6 parts wt. lead & 4 parts wt. tin) (metal)
428° = solder (5 parts wt. lead & 5 parts wt. tin) (metal)
374° = solder (4 parts wt. lead & 6 parts wt. tin) (metal)
365° = solder (3 parts wt. lead & 7 parts wt. tin) (metal)
392° = solder (2 parts wt. lead & 8 parts wt. tin) (metal)
421° = solder (1 part wt. lead & 9 parts wt. tin) (metal)
205° = solder (32.0% wt. lead & 15.5% wt. tin & 52.5% bismuth) (metal)
214° = solder (25.8% wt. lead & 19.8% wt. tin & 54.4% bismuth) (metal)
257° = solder (25.0% wt. lead & 15.0% wt. tin & 60.0% bismuth) (metal)
262° = solder (43.0% wt. lead & 14.0% wt. tin & 43.0% bismuth) (metal)
293° = solder (33.3% wt. lead & 33.3% wt. tin & 33.3% bismuth) (metal)
298° = solder (10.7% wt. lead & 23.1% wt. tin & 66.2% bismuth) (metal)
322° = solder (50.0% wt. lead & 33.0% wt. tin & 17.0% bismuth) (metal)
358° = solder (35.8% wt. lead & 52.1% wt. tin & 12.1% bismuth) (metal)
360° = solder (20.0% wt. lead & 60.0% wt. tin & 20.0% bismuth) (metal)
453° = solder (71.0% wt. lead & 9.0% wt. tin & 20.0% bismuth) (metal)
1904° = solder (9 parts wt. copper & 1 part wt. zinc) (metal)
1823° = solder (8 parts wt. copper & 2 parts wt. zinc) (metal)
1706° = solder (7 parts wt. copper & 3 parts wt. zinc) (metal)
1652° = solder (6 parts wt. copper & 4 parts wt. zinc) (metal)
1616° = solder (5 parts wt. copper & 5 parts wt. zinc) (metal)
1508° = solder (4 parts wt. copper & 6 parts wt. zinc) (metal)
1436° = solder (3 parts wt. copper & 7 parts wt. zinc) (metal)
1292° = solder (2 parts wt. copper & 8 parts wt. zinc) (metal)
1076° = solder (1 part wt. copper & 9 parts wt. zinc) (metal)
per wiljen's post, WW melt @ 560 - so I take it that's approx 9:1 mix lead/tin? (as highlighted in green)
If there is also antimony in the tin/lead alloy the melting points are all different. Antimony is to tin/lead as salt is to ice/water. it only takes a small percentage to make big differences too.
A chart showing the effect of tin on temperature is pretty much useless for two reasons. First, there is no reason for more than very small percentage of tin, if any at all, and such mall amounts have little effect. Second, the important additive is antimony, not tin. Much bigger percentages of antimony are needed, and antimony reduces melting tempertature much more than does tin, so the effect is much greater.
Actually the tin lead chart can be useful if you end up with a bunch of solder bars with out markings or pieces, it will give you an idea what the percentages might be when you melt it. I was given about 60 lbs. of 63/37 solder and that is how I determined what it was, and now that I know I will be able to alloy it with confidence. It will not hurt to save it in a folder marked Lead Alloy's and melting Temperatures.
So does anyone know the melting point of Lyman #2 alloy?
I thought the stick on wheel weights were softer than clip on!
I got this info from kentuckycajun's post above. When it is arranged like this, you can see the affect tin has on the melting point of lead. It drops, then goes back up. The low point is at the eutectic - 63% tin, 37% lead. This information can be used to find the tin percentage of an unknown bar of solder.
621° = lead
563° = solder (10% tin & 90% lead)
529° = solder (20% tin & 80% lead)
504° = solder (30% tin & 70% lead)
464° = solder (40% tin & 60% lead)
428° = solder (50% tin & 50% lead)
374° = solder (60% tin & 40% lead)
362° = solder (63% tin & 37% lead) (eutectic)
365° = solder (70% tin & 30% lead)
392° = solder (80% tin & 20% lead)
421° = solder (90% tin & 10% lead)
450° = tin
Usually they are. Traditionally stick on weights were made from pure lead while the clip on type were a lead/antimony/tin alloy (which with the addition of more tin makes a great boolit alloy). However more and more zinc weights of both clip on and stick on variety are showing up as so many states try to 'go green' by eliminating lead from everything!Quote:
Originally Posted by Diegokid
What the reasoning for getting rid of lead from tire weights I don't understand, what, do they think babies are going to come along and chomp on a tire weight they find on the side of the road?
It's to stop them from ingesting lead when they get run over! OK that was sick - sorry! But you get the idea that there's no actual logic behind it.Quote:
What the reasoning for getting rid of lead from tire weights I don't understand, what, do they think babies are going to come along and chomp on a tire weight they find on the side of the road?
I know it's an old thread, but the rationale behind dumping lead wheelweights is what happens to them when they
fall off
on the road.
Runover repeatedly = pulverization = chemical reactions = non-elemental compounds that can become biologically active, uptake by vertibrates, and all kinds of hurt the kids and the little birds harm.
Same for getting swept by stormwater into the low-lying wet parts of our great land.
I have absolutely no idea whether any science actually quantifies this as a level of harm that would be reduced by switching to zinc wheelweights. Zinc is not exactly friendly to living things, either.
Can't imagine a wheel weight ever being pulverized on any H'Way, casters can spot them a mile off. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :kidding:
For all the hue and cry about lead contamination, Where is the necessary testing to determine the amount of lead ingestion by humans. On Tuesday, I asked the VA to check my blood for lead contamination, and I was told there is no such test in their computers. Go figure....Quote:
Originally Posted by Grump
Good reference
can you use rosin core solder?
Lee says it will rot your pot out but most of the casters on here say they have used it for years with no side effects. Found some on my shelf and put it with my casting supplies and plan on using every bit of it as needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by N1YDP
The worst solder aid used is the sal-ammoniac used to clean the solder irons. That stuff would rust, rust.
Add my 4% Sb, 1% Cu 95% Pb solidus near 575F, while I could still pull the probe out.
2% cu, 585F.
That's a very small change of melting point for the change of copper. Copper is supposed to have the greatest effect on melting point. Clearly the effect is highly modified by the other elements present.
Good info, thx. This list along with Zinc and other metals such as Tin and Pewter that might be of interest to bullet casters would make a good sticky.Quote:
Originally Posted by wiljen
Interesting that Sb reduces temp much more than Sn, Cu increases. Someone have a number for the 0.3% babbit compounded alloy (Goodsteel)?
Here is some more melting point information.
Attachment 156880 from: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/me...ls-d_1269.html
and
Attachment 156881 from: https://www.americanelements.com/meltingpoint.html
I found the data kind of neat. The links (as long as they shall live) have a whole bunch more but I felt this edited data was more in-line with casting.
It's been too long now popper. I can't remember, and that's a detail I didn't write down. Sorry!Quote:
Originally Posted by popper
im starting to think it is zinc, im going to have to get some muriatic acid, will it fizz even if its only 1-3%? also, it never floated like the zinc ww's I missed that I pulled out of the same batch?
If you have a lyman mould master lead furnace, #2 alloy melting range will be printed on the temperature dial along with other ranges for pure, WW's, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeS
I did some alloying this past wknd. Melted down 40+ lbs of Foundry Type, and then used a little to help SOWW alloy into WW+. I didn't add the seperate tin. So I expected it to be softer than it was. I checked it for HARDNESS, expecting it to come out at 12-13 Brinell. It came out at 15 Brinell. I know I weighed everything correctly. And I was very careful to keep the pot and alloy at 680-710 degrees. I used two different thermometers, the turkey fryer has a good wind screen and I put a tarp 6ft upwind, and the cast iron pot holds its heat well. So I guess that SOWW ingots were not as advertised. So now I have 125lbs of #2 alloy I didn't really want. I've already have 75lb. I guess I'll have to waste pure lead to soften it up as I use it.
Hey , Walks ,, ( late to the show ),,how much pure lead did you end up adding to your 40lb. BHN 15 mix ??
coffee's ready ,, Hootmix.
Thank you so much for this.
Phase diagram for lead-antimony alloy:
https://www.researchgate.net/figure/...fig2_324604359
Attachment 303793
Attachment 303794
Pb-Sn phase diagram:
https://www.researchgate.net/figure/...fig3_280576991
Attachment 303796
Attachment 303795