Just as the title says, I have a Lee mold handle that the wood slides back, what do you use to fix them?
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Just as the title says, I have a Lee mold handle that the wood slides back, what do you use to fix them?
I just remove them, use a tooth pick or wooden skewer to put some Gorilla glue in the handle and then put them back on using a rubber hammer to seat them really well. Never had any come loose after that.
I use a high temperature two-part epoxy called quick steel. I get it from the auto parts store. It looks like Gray Silly Putty . I mix up a corn kernel sized ball use something to shove it down deep into the mold handle and then install the mold handle with a mallet and let the glue cure.
If you put too much glue inside the handle when your hammer it on you May possibly crack or split the handle.
JB Weld works for me.
I drill and pin mine using a 14 gauge finishing nail as the pin, trimmed and filed.
I use RTV silicone high temp gasket adhesive. That way it's removable in future, if needed.
JB Weld or pinning are the two approaches I’ve used successfully.
LOL... And here I am using good ole Seal All on that kind of stuff!!!!
If you decide to use pins, make sure they are below to surface of the wood or you might get a burn from the hot pin.
I have some of the 6 cavity handles that need pinning. They get loose and I have to give them a little tap to keep them from sliding all the way off.
I'm glad for this thread because it reminded me to fix it before I use them again.
Depending on how bad they are decides how I do it. just lose a little JB weld I fill the hole with the handle in. Ive bought some used ones that were bad ( handles would rotate on tangs inserted) These i fitted wooden match sticks in and epoxy to tighten them, thick areas of epoxy can be brittle. I also pin them after gluing. I do this as the ferrules loosing is annoying to me.
+1 on JB Weld.
Rumor has it that stuff is so good, you could make a boat trailer out of it.
I have read your ideas, tomorrow I will go buy some cheap glue and if possible, one that works for high temperatures.
Thanks
did the same thingQuote:
Originally Posted by Minerat
found that the gluing method wasn't holding so I went this route
drilled UNDERSIZE hold through wooden and metal handle parts
came back and drilled a correct-sized hole in metal (pulled the wooden part off)
put back together and drove the pin in
countersunk it
tight wood holds the pin in
Another vote for Gorilla Glue GW
just in case: I happened to partially crack a Lee wooden handle longitudinally, starting from the part closest to the heat.
I closed it tight with two opposing stainless hose clamps: fast & ugly, but it still holds today.
(I use gloves but, even without, my fingers wouldn't go that far)_
This is how I do mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Minerat
Same here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed_Shot
Make sure it is a two-part epoxy.Quote:
Originally Posted by nueces5
JB Weld, Regular 2-part epoxy and Gorilla Glue has worked for me. I have done a lot of them over the years. I just put a healthy amount in the repair and stand them upright for 24 hours. Good to go!
Ditto..Quote:
Originally Posted by Minerat
Another on the high temp RTV
Was just gonna say that. Works great!
OK so yesterday I used hi temp red rtv to reattach the wooden handle on my Lee 6 cav mold and it works very well now.
A Lil dab'll do ya right, like tooth paste.
I use any old silicone caulk.
I finally put high temperature silicone on it, so far there are no more problems.
J-B Weld ... 2 part , slow setting ,
Do Not use fast settin , 5 min, type or Foamy Gorilla Glue .
Use old school 2 part J-B Weld ... trust me on this ... other glues can't take the Heat !
Gary
tI used JB Weld to repair a seam leak on a radiator back when there was only one JB Weld. It lasted about 30 minutes so I cleaned it out and soft soldered the seam. That lasted for years.