Replacing the lube stick - a cautionary tale

I just completed a manic run of 2000 H&G #51's and ran them through the heated Star.
The 51's (Phil Sharpe designed bullet for the original 1930's 357 load) have a VERY large lube groove so I use a fair amount of lube.
I use Magma lube and have for many years.
I was at the very tail end of the run and had maybe three or four turns left on the pressure screw assembly so I thought I would add a new lube stick and be ready for the next run - whatever that might be.
Well, WRONG!
Unless you are dead out of lube, adding another stick with ANY lube left in the sizer was a nightmare. Trying to get the cap started when it is too high is a frustrating experience. I finally stood up on a chair and put all my weight down on it a got it started.
The moral of the story? Run out totally THEN add a new stick.
Life is easier that way.

Why not cut a 1/4 of the stick?

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Originally Posted by Sasquatch-1

Why not cut a 1/4 of the stick?

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Excellent idea.
That will be the plan moving forward if I do it again.
However, I think i will just run out completely, reload, and solve all the problems.
No muss, no fuss...............

I sometimes pour my homemade lube into a short piece of PVC tube then push out however much I want to replenish the sizer.

I use a heat gun to melt the remaining lube down into the bottom of the tube to make room for a fresh stick. But cutting 1/4 off the new stick sounds much more reasonable and quicker

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Originally Posted by FISH4BUGS

Excellent idea.
That will be the plan moving forward if I do it again.
However, I think i will just run out completely, reload, and solve all the problems.
No muss, no fuss...............

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I am with Fish4BUGS on this one, I did the same thing he did twice! Will never do it again.

I resembled the OP, ONCE! Never again.

Having run into the same issue where i had to dig out a 1/4+ stick of lube i took the opportunity to scratch my head (or was it the other end or both ends?) and create a dipstick for my Lyman 450/4500's. the end state goal was to be able to get a positive indication of what the level really is and at what point a full stick could be inserted without any drama. More or less if the level falls within the two lines there is a reasonable amount of confidence i can drop in a new stick and get both the piston and cap back on. The top mark is obviously the point where the piston is bottomed out minus the stack tolerance of the cap and piston. By the math I should be good as the various lube sticks i have on hand were shorter than the available space. I did not take into account the squishifation factor of the lube sticks installed when the piston comes down and smooshes the lube down to fill in around the body and threaded rod the first time..


Attachment 310488

PS- I'm also wafting for one of my Lyman 45s with the original style pistons to run down to see if it will work there as well

I just cut the lube sticks in half, no problem then...

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Originally Posted by metricmonkeywrench

Having run into the same issue where i had to dig out a 1/4+ stick of lube i took the opportunity to scratch my head (or was it the other end or both ends?) and create a dipstick for my Lyman 450/4500's. the end state goal was to be able to get a positive indication of what the level really is and at what point a full stick could be inserted without any drama. More or less if the level falls within the two lines there is a reasonable amount of confidence i can drop in a new stick and get both the piston and cap back on. The top mark is obviously the point where the piston is bottomed out minus the stack tolerance of the cap and piston. By the math I should be good as the various lube sticks i have on hand were shorter than the available space. I did not take into account the squishifation factor of the lube sticks installed when the piston comes down and smooshes the lube down to fill in around the body and threaded rod the first time..


Attachment 310488

PS- I'm also wafting for one of my Lyman 45s with the original style pistons to run down to see if it will work there as well

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I just let it run out and put a fresh stick in. I avoid the math and all the other stuff that goes with it.LOL

I’m a melt and pour kind of guy.

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Originally Posted by super6

I just let it run out and put a fresh stick in. I avoid the math and all the other stuff that goes with it.LOL

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....and thus ends the lesson............as the pastor used to say after his sermon.
I will run this puppy dry and go from there!
One lesson is enough for me.

For handguns, I melt my pot of lube, then pour it into the sizer.
For rifles, I take out the die, melt it all out, then put in a stick of Orange magic.

After all the rifle boolits are done, I melt & pour more home made lube on top of it for the refill.

Since the drift has started already, how do you like that Magma lube? I have a bunch of it from old trades but have never used it.
Tony

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Originally Posted by AnthonyB

Since the drift has started already, how do you like that Magma lube? I have a bunch of it from old trades but have never used it.
Tony

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That's all I use. That is all I have used for as long as I can remember.
I am not sure of the composition but I was told it was beeswax and paraffin. The colors mean nothing. They are one formula - period.
I shoot mostly Keith style SWC bullets (38/357/44) which have a tendency to have lube grooves the size of the Panama Canal. They are a bit smokey but coupled with 231 you can shoot a TON cheap.
My alloy is 5lbs ww to 1 lb lino. I have never leaded a barrel in any way shape or form.
I owe a lot of that to the generous lube groove and Magma lube.
Maybe I am just lucky.

I don't let mine run out. I just cut to what length I need. As for colors I use mostly one company and the darker the color the more heat it needs. Yellow needs no heat and Orange very little but purple always more. I use blue mostly on 44's and 45's.

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Originally Posted by imashooter2

I’m a melt and pour kind of guy.

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THIS^^^^ That's how Harry Pope told us to fill lubricators, and who are we to argue? I have a glass 1-cup measure that goes in the microwave. Seconds later it's ready to add JUST the right amount.

For a curious mind? How do you know how much to melt and pour? GW

Melt more than you need, save the rest for next time. In a Tupperware container to keep it clean.

(One stick for a Lyman 450 is about half a cup.)

That's the beauty of this site. Many different opinions and ideas.
I once asked about how to get the pressure assembly out when ready to add a new stick of lube.
It was a bear trying to get it out.
Someone suggested coating the bottom washer with lithium grease.
It makes it far easier to get it out.
Thanks for all the ideas guys (and maybe even ladies if they are here). :)

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Originally Posted by FISH4BUGS

That's all I use. That is all I have used for as long as I can remember.
I am not sure of the composition but I was told it was beeswax and paraffin. The colors mean nothing. They are one formula - period.
I shoot mostly Keith style SWC bullets (38/357/44) which have a tendency to have lube grooves the size of the Panama Canal. They are a bit smokey but coupled with 231 you can shoot a TON cheap.
My alloy is 5lbs ww to 1 lb lino. I have never leaded a barrel in any way shape or form.
I owe a lot of that to the generous lube groove and Magma lube.
Maybe I am just lucky.

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I tried Tamarack and some other stuff early on, but Iben using Magma Blue for everthing for the last 30 years. When I used to live in Commiefornia I called upon GM proving grounds from time to time, and ME is right around the corner. I now live about 15 miles from ME.

Got a Midway heated base for my star and built an electronic setpoint controller that works with a thermistor stuck into the base of the lube reservoir near the base.