https://www.amazon.com/Swingline-Tri.../dp/B016LDV41S
Has anyone ever used one of these to cut paper patches? Any reason that it wouldn't work?
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https://www.amazon.com/Swingline-Tri.../dp/B016LDV41S
Has anyone ever used one of these to cut paper patches? Any reason that it wouldn't work?
You may have to play with the blade tension some. Paper cuts a lot easier than woven cloth. The cloth may want to fold over. One of the rolling cutters may be a better choice.
My wife has a cutter, looks like a pizza cutter, that she lets me use. I use to cut flannel patches with, just put flannel on cutting mat and roll over and it is cut.
I don't always cut cloth, but when I do, I use a scissors.
You can get rolling cutters cheaper and they are scary sharp. Any craft or hobby shop will have them. GW
And drink Dos Equis?Quote:
Originally Posted by elmacgyver0
I guess I should have specified that I'm talking about paper patches for paper patched bullets.
I don’t use one but it looks like it should work to cut the strips at least. This could be a time saver. However, I don’t see how you could use it with the precision necessary to cut the angles.
JKR
If you do a lot of it, you could look for one of the dye cutting machines that crafters use for scrapbooking. They are a bit expensive, but after you program in your parameters, it is very repeatable. If your significant other is into that sort of thing, you could give it to her as a present.
I use one of that type to cut to the right width and use a template to get the length right.
https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-SureC...s%2C341&sr=8-5
This is the style cutter I use, seems to work well. I cut a bunch of strips the width of the patch, staple the strips at each end in small stacks and then trace the patch pattern and then cut the patches.
I use one very similar. It's worked great for many years. Just resharpen the blade when it gets dull.
I have one like that that I use for cutting paper patches and occasionally cloth cleaning patches. Doesn't work all that well on cloth. Finally talked the wife into cutting the cloth patches with her rotary cutter.
I see it says it will cut up to 10 sheets. That is an optimistic number if you want them somewhat precise. I sharpen a lot of paper cutters each year. The plastic ones are less robust that the old cast iron and maple ones BUT totally functional. I would not cut more than 4-5 thicknesses to maintain a good cut.
They should be fine for cutting strips. Cutting the angled patches themselves merely require a jig to hold the strips at your chosen angle. Easily made.
Please, keep us posted of your results.
Kevin
Thundermaker I used one of those and they are not the best if you want to cut more than one patch at a time. It will pull the paper when you cut several sheets stacked.
A roller cutter is the way to go. I staple 16 sheets together as well as the strips on each end and every one is cut identical doing it this way. You will get a nice clean cut.
A lot of those roller cutters mention 10 sheets but I think that is for the heavier 20# or 25# printer paper that is thicker than the paper most use for patches that will run from .0015" to maybe .0025".
It takes me about an hour to cut 600+ patches. It takes more time marking a sheet full of patched than it does cutting them.
If you have a good scanner that will duplicate exact you can print out several sheets so you don't have to draw up each top sheet every time you need more patches cut.
Attachment 308426Attachment 308427
Attachment 308428Attachment 308429
The blades for the rolling paper cutters arnt expensive buy a couple spares with the cutter.
I converted one to a patch cutter it isnt a lot of work,
I added a fence/stop on the outside side of the cutter. This was a piece of 3/4 x 3/4 aluminum angle and some spacers top leg of the angle faces the cutter. it is 2" longer on each end. this is bolted in with the top level with the table. the spacers hold it in place. in the ends is a 1/4" hole from each end. this is the mount for the fence / stop.
2 1/4 20 rods are bolted in to the holes with 4 hex nuts thee are tightened once and stay that way. the actual stop is 2 pieces a identical piece of 3/4 x 3/4 angle the same length as the mount and a piece of 1/8 x 1 1/2 also the same length. these can be bolted or epoxied together with the top leg in. Layout the 1/4" hole pattern and clamp all 3 together dill the 1/4" holes together. Here 4 wing nuts or thumb nuts are used. You need 2 pieces of 1/4 20 threaded rod. the fence slifes on the ready rod the thumb nuts are the adjustment. Make these rods longer than the longest piece you want to cut. A nice upgrade is a piece of 1/8 x 3/4 c length needed ro tie the ros ends together and hold thespacing at the end. Again 4 hex nuts to lock it together.
The added length on the fence helps when cutting angles as they may miss one at the bed width.
Now to the cutter side of the bed
The angle gauge rail can be done 2 ways.
I used plexiglass for mine.
A simple 1" strip 10" long with a 3/4"x 3/4" foot on the bottom at each end that has a point centered on it. This is a simple sine bar and requires measuring to set.
The next is a triangle with the long leg at the desired angle and a base that puts the strip at the proper height. this one just sits in place against the rail.
both are held in place with double faced tape.
Last if you are working from a roll of paper is a holder for it. a couple arms and a rod so it cant take off. When they get going they roll a long ways. Make the arms longer than the bed to give room to work
The triangle is the faster easier way to go. The sine bar allows easily trying different angles. thinking on it if you made the bar as long as the bed angles could be premeasured and the front point marked and the angles marked along the back edge of the bed.
you do need to measure the fence both ends when setting to maintain parallel. for this a simple steel rule is fine. A 12" if your cutting sheets from a roll.
My 3D printed solution for cutting strips and final patches.
UPDATED:
Improved tools
1. Guide rulers printed with an arc. When the arced guide ruler is pressed down, the paper is held in place very tightly.
2. Width adjustable guide rulers using adapters in 1/16" increments.
3. The paper patch cutting templates were redesigned and made adjustable. Can be adjusted to cut paper to fit any length between .40 and .45
4. A paper strip alignment guide was added to help keep the paper strips aligned while positioning the paper patch cutting templates.
New video.
https://odysee.com/@bpcr3d:3/Cutting...Bo4UEPkCGFwDGU
That part I understand. The rest of it? For some reason, the part of my brain that puts words into images has not been active for several years or maybe decades. Can you post an image?Quote:
Originally Posted by country gent
Thank you.
Kevin
I’ve used the roller type and I believe they are cheaper.
That's really nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by flemdoug
Chris.
Attachment 308452
This drawing/sketch shows how I cic mine. to help with my written explanation.
Pics of the board didnt show it well enough.
Here is the parts list
1- spacers to hold angle in level alignment
2- hex nuts 1/4 20
3- aluminum angle
4- threaded rod 1/4 20
5-thumb nuts 1/4 20
6- aluminum angl
7-aluminum flat stock
I only showed the side view of the parts that had alignment needs.
With the increased popularity of lasers, I wonder if people will start using them for cutting paper patches. Seems like it would be a conflict of technologies.
I suspect that a laser cutter would start the paper on fire but I’m not sure on that.
I dont know they are being used for wood working etching engraving and other things
I used a paper cutter along with jigs for cutting alignments, then went back to making my own brass cutting templates - ah, mo' bettah.
I found an old school paper cutter like the OP showed... hoping to give it a try shortly. Got some .40 cal HB PP bullets cast up for a Krieger Metford rifled bbl.
Jeff P
I use an Ingento paper cutter for both the strips and the angle cuts. Attachment 318424
That style of paper cutter is what I’ve used for the last 24 years. I’m happy with sub MOA groups and dead critters.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thundermaker
Now that I'm semi-retired, it's time to give paper-patching a try!
Jeff P
Long time no see.
Kenny Wasserburger
Pretty sure that the same Italian made paper cutter that I have too! It followed me home from the pawn store one day... the power of bundling! Got it for cheap... and it's like new.
Was out casting again today... the pile of RCBS 40 cal 400 HB PP slicks is growing :))
Jeff P
I just started to cut patches for my Pedersoli Sharps rifle .446 dia money boolet. My question is this once the patch is wrapped and dried on the boolet, can you (or should you) grease the paper prior to seating the boolet into the 4570 case? Is it necessary?
You guys are a wealth of knowledge so I'm going to pick yer brains..
You can wipe them lightly with JO Joba oil or I put my cut patches in a ziplock bag with a few drops of Jo Joba oil and let them set for a few days. Yes if your going to lube do it before seating. I find the lightly dampened patches wrap a little smoother and the fold under is tighter. On my patches you just see a sheen not wet looking or translucent. A drop of oil on finger tip will do 4-5 bullets I wipe them then re wipe them a second time with out adding more oil just spread any excess on down the line.
Also treating the patches in the bag isnt as messy as wiping them down.
Thats what I use to cut my paper patches, works great!