Been using synthetic 2 cycle oil on my molds. Works well. Noticed I'm running low on CLP for gun lube. Any thoughts on how 2 cycle oil would work as a substitute?
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Been using synthetic 2 cycle oil on my molds. Works well. Noticed I'm running low on CLP for gun lube. Any thoughts on how 2 cycle oil would work as a substitute?
2 cycle oil will be fine for some aspects...Over the years, I've learned that a variety of guns need a variety of oil/lube products.
I use Ed's Red in applications where I use to use a product like CLP...except where there is a lot of handling of guns, like at a gunshow, then I use the "secret gunshow oil" formula on the outside of gunshow guns.
Ed's Red for me too, the ATF leaves some protection behind. I switched from ATF to Marvel Mystery though to improve the smell. Some of the new ATFs smell worse than hypoid oil.
I haven't smelled any new ATF, lol...
I can get vintage ATF for free at the County HHW reuse room.
As to smell, I use Turpentine (instead of MS), just because I like the Piney fresh smell...PLUS, it seems more often, I can get it free, than the MS, at the HHW reuse room.
Used CLP while in the Canadian Reserves. Synthetic 2 stroke oil has almost all gun oils beat. It lubricates and keeps metal from rusting, does not gum up, and it works at -40C.Quote:
Originally Posted by fayettefatts
Mobil 1 oil is used by a lot of folks on their guns.
Mobile 1 is what I use on my ARs, just tried it for cleaning the Bolt Carrier Group. It floated away the combustion products and I wiped them off. I like it better than the Action Cleaner I got a sample of.Quote:
Originally Posted by contender1
You might want to spread some on your gun and let it dry. Then see how it feels in your hands and how much debris it attracts.
OK, spread some what? It is helpful to quote at least some of a post for continuity.Quote:
Originally Posted by jsizemore
45_Colt
Wondering if Redline Two Stroke Racing Oil would work like Bullplate Sprue Lube. I use it to mix fuel for my gasoline powered R/C airplanes and as an assembly lube when I rebuild the R/C engines. It’s a very clean oil unlike most chainsaw oils from big box stores. I haven’t tried it on guns but have no doubt it would be a good gun oil.
I picked up some dispenser bottles from Amazon. They’re excellent for applying controlled amounts of lubricants. They don’t seem to have the exact ones that I got but these are similar.
https://www.amazon.com/Blunt-Needle-...%2C175&sr=8-11
Compared to regular API certified 4 stroke oil like a 5w30, most 2 stroke oils have similar lubricity, less detergents, and additives that are meant to burn off clean. How this would effect a gun, I doubt you would see a difference. CLP is a whole different animal. 2 stroke oil does not contain anything that would be a cleaner. 2 stroke oil would be a very good lubricator. Despite being meant to be used and burned, it seems 2 stroke oils hold up to repeated use well enough. It won't be any worse than Hoppe's gun oil, or Rem oil. As a protectant, I think that really depends on the oil. A TCW III rated oil is meant for water cooled engines such as boats, and seem to contain rust penetrative additives. A racing 2 stroke oil such as Amsoil Dominator does not contain anything that would prevent rust, however, it is still oil. As long as there is oil on there, it wont rust.
I used RemOil on a barreled action after hot bluing it for the aging oil. I was very surprised when I unwrapped it two days later and it was bone dry. I think the main lubricity in it is the Teflon. The oil is just a volatile carrier.
I think you are right, but I also think Rem oil is the worst gun oil made. It's worse than Hoppe's, which is just mineral oil in an orange bottle.Quote:
Originally Posted by David2011
100% synthetic oil was really popular in Alaska when it first came out. People started using it in their airplanes, but after several years they started having engine problems. Apparently, the oil was so thin and slippery, that if a plane was not started for over six months, the oil residue that protected the cam shaft from rust wasn’t doing its job. Everyone who wanted to start their plane in winter, switched to 50/50 synthetic and mineral oils.
I agree on Remoil. It was being used at Montana Rifle Co. when I started working there. We found the same problem, dries out, and doesn't prevent rust. I converted the company to Ed's Red, problems went away.Quote:
Originally Posted by megasupermagnum
2 cycle oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by 45_Colt
If nothing else, you won't have to worry about if can take the heat or not.
Full Syn 0w20 walmart brand. Seems to work well but some on here have suggested it won't protect against rust. I have not found that myself as I think anything that stays in place and prevent air/moisture from the metal will work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mal Paso
What I like about RemOil is it will not go gummy on you . The base oil is mineral oil ...like what Baby Oil is made from ... it will dissapate over time but leaves a thin micro-Teflon coating behind ...this is like "Dry Lube" . I've had some CLP's go gummy during storage and the actions had to be cleaned of the gum to work . RemOil will not go gummy ... the oil will dissapate but will not gum the works up .
P.S. When mixing Ed's Red Bore Solvent or Ed's Red Gun Oil ... there is a recipe for Ed's Red Gun Oil , remember to use conventional ATF ... Synthetic ATF will not mix with the other ingredients .
If you aren't familiar with Ed's Red formulas read the article in this link ... it's under - additional authors and articles - Ed's Red Bore Cleaner by C. E. Harris
http://www.lasc.us/ArticleIndex.htm
Gary
Does the type of ATF matter?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonp
I would use Dexron III which is not synthetic. Mercon sometimes labeled Type F has different additives in it.
One thing to watch for is the odor of the ATF. I recently mixed up some Ed's Red with, IIRC, Havoline (maybe Valvoline?) ATF. That stuff stunk!!! Ended up in the fuel oil tank. The stench was unbearable.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonp
Next trip to the auto store had my nose at the bottle caps. Got some strange looks, but at least the Ed's Red is usable...
45_Colt
I use Marvel Mystery Oil instead of ATF. Smells good and works as well or better.Quote:
Originally Posted by 45_Colt
I saw that is what you use and i like the wintergreen smell of Marvel but i have several quarts of ATF drained when i changed out a torque converter and saved for use as penetrating oil as well as Ed'sQuote:
Originally Posted by Mal Paso
Jonp, if I remember correctly that was a Ford pickup, so that should have been Mercon in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonp
Tramsmition fluid good rust protection and cleaning and synthstic oil will keep rust away and clean
Transfer case on the F150. Torque converter on the Honda CRV. Changed both, been a tough year for transmissionsQuote:
Originally Posted by Finster101
For protection at the shop I was part owner of we used Du-Lite Quick-Seal on all metal that was just blued and Hot water then cod water rinsed. Good for 2-3 years or more leaves a waxlike so fingerprints just spread out with no effect to the metal. It's sold in 55 gallon drums.