Anyone have any favorite recipe they'd like to share? My can of one shot is almost gone and it sure is 'spensive.
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Anyone have any favorite recipe they'd like to share? My can of one shot is almost gone and it sure is 'spensive.
Red bottle heet and lanolin. I use paste lanolin. But it means an extra wash with simple green to get it off.
What is the ratio?
1 bottle heet and 2 tablespoons lanolin paste. Adjust from there to your liking. I use paste cause I had a tub of it from a project. Havent used liquid but i'm sure it's easier.
And always shake before using
Alberto VO5 Hair Dressing.
Dissolve as much Lee Case Lube ( the white waxy stuff in the tube) in a small container with Denatured Alcohol . I use a small baby food jar and shake it until no more case lube will dissolve.
Strain the liquid into a small spray bottle , 6 oz. , with a squeeze handle and on/off tip that controls the spray . From wally mart travel section around pharmacy
Spray the cases , roll around and let dry . They dry in a minute or two and size .
Works so much better than finger application and the thin dry wax wipe off ... No Mess.
Gary
Lanyon and alcohol
Shake and spray.
You can buy liqud lanyon for about 10 bucks on amazon. That bottel will lastbgg you years or more.
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Lee case lube ina tube - first one lasted me years - its a very minor expense
Liquid Lanolin from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Lanolin-softe...%2C240&sr=8-19
&
91% Alcohol from Amazon or other source - https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Brand-...5008650&sr=8-3
Each person seems to have their own mixture ratio ranging from 16-1, 12-1, 10-1, and most commonly 5-1
Here is a thread on this site about the topic; with about 75 posts on the topic: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ohol-case-lube
Hornady Unique case lube works great is cheap and a can will last a very long time. Imperial die wax is almost as good is cheap and also a can will last a long time.
You need 100% pure liquid lanolin for it to stay in solution
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=liquid+la..._ts-doa-p_1_23
You also need at least 92% alcohol so it dries in a reasonable length of time
98%
https://www.amazon.com/ISO-HEET-2820...%2C234&sr=8-10
I add 1 ounce of lanolin to the 12 oz. bottle of red iso heet dropping a marble, bullet, boolit in it to act as an agitator.
[some people add up to 2 ounces of lanolin to 12 oz. heet but I feel it stays too sticky! I'd suggest you start with 1/12 and you can always add more if you want]
I label and leave the bottle of heet with the lanolin mixture on my bench and shake&add it to a small spray bottle whenever it runs low.
I used an empty eyeglass cleaner spray bottle
this is a little bigger but won't tip as easily https://www.amazon.com/Tolco-Bottle-...44&sr=8-8&th=1
mine is more like this https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Bottles...s%2C244&sr=8-9
A can of Bag Balm ...
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Vermont-s...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
Castor Oil works for me, but I am a cheapskate!!
STP oil additive, just put a little on a felt pad and rub it in, then roll your case
on the pad and size. Just takes a light coating, wipe off case with dry rag.
If your really cheep STP is the way to go. Been using it for 40 yrs.
GONRA's cast lead boolit shootin' has been 99% limited to auto pistols with (mostly)
range lead boolits selected so all lube grooves are within the loaded cartridge case.
Once NRA came out with the 50/50 beezwax/ALOX 2138F boolit lube,
purchased a gallon of pure ALOX 2138F from the manufacturer.
Just run pure ALOX 2138F in my Lyman Lube Sizer.
.25 ACP --- on up --- .455 W&S Auto.
Verks Just Fine for (most) my slam bang shootin'....
(Sometymes have to upgrade to a harder scrap alloy. etc.)
Bag Balm here. The RCBS case lube was repackaged STP.
in a pinch ive used stp oil treatment and also Johnsons paste wax. little goes a long way. I'm not sure what kind of wax imperial is but ive never had a stuck case with it and as you apply it to one shell at a time I'm able to inspect brass as I lube it.
The last time I ran out I robbed the mink oil out of my shoe shine box, works great for finger lubing.
Lately, in this climate, I've been having to size more already primed brass so I use lee water base lube, put a peanut size dab in a 2-quart plastic container with a lid, fill 2/3 with brass and shake until all have a light haze. when done sizing, I roll the brass on a rag dampened with water and a drop of dish soap, then on a towel --- good to go :)
Sharp Shooter Royal Lube
I bought a 4oz jar maybe five years ago and I am about half way through it. I use for 44WCF, 38-55 Winchester, 45-70 Govt. and 6.5X55 Swedish . I lube by hand/finger and run 2 or three un-lubed cases then a lubed case. Tumble in corn cobb afterwards. The cost ($9) for 4oz may seem high, but for a decades supply I am not going to bother with making my own.
Imperial sizing die wax is the best case lube i have ever used and is worth spending 10 bucks for the thousands of cases a tiny will lube. That being said, I have lubed thousands of cases satisfactorily with Ivory soap. Half a bar dissolved in a cup of water makes a nice consistency. After sizing cases clean up with a dump rag.
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I like the Unique case lube. Also have a pill bottle with lead shot and a tube of lock graphite to dip the case necks in.
I was specifically looking for a spray on lube. I used the liquid lanolin and 99% isopropyl alcohol in a 1:6 lanolin: alcohol. It worked fantastic! Thanks to all who helped as this will probably take the place of 5 $15 cans of hornady one shot!
Lemon Pledge - the real stuff
A few drops of 30 weight oil in a zip lock plastics bag. Knead the bag, and then size. I wipe the shoulder and neck of bottleneck cartridges to avoid hydraulic lube dents.
I don't own a tumbler. All my brass is hand washed with dish soap and vinegar. A broom stick(agitator), bucket, and industrial kitchen colander come in handy when washing large batches.
I don't worry about wet brass. I have a lot of brass in all the cartridges that I shoot. When the sized box of brass gets low, I process a large batch of fired brass. I often don't load it till months after it has been washed, it always has plenty of time to dry out. In the summer time my bass gets a suntan.
JM
I was looking into case lube a few months back. I spent a fair amount of time watching Youtube videos and reading online. While there are many options, the most popular was pure liquid lanolin and 99% alcohol. I ordered both online but have yet to mix any of it up to see for myself. The mix ratio was 1 Oz lanolin to 10 Oz alcohol. You may live in an area where both are readily available. If so, I would do some comparison shopping online and go with what works best for you. I'm in a rural area with little choice but to order online.
Murphy
I still like the old school sticky case lube.
In nearly 60 years of reloading I have not stuck one case using it.
I roll cases on a lube pad and wipe them down with a rag after they are sized.
They are them tumbled in walnut shells to remove an lube that is left.
My formula is 50/50 Motor Honey-STP and light machine oil.
I only finger lube cases, never could get used to the idea of mass spraying them. I have been using ordinary mink oil for several years now and it is the best stuff I have found.
Yeah, any of the several Bag Balms are very good; it's a fine case lube and it's great for our skin too! Lanolin is the effective ingredient and any way we can get it is good.
STP by any name and in any form --- Lord, I do HATE to have that sticky, gooey, messy stuff on my cases, hands and bench top! It's no better than the much cleaner and easier to handle waxes such as Imperial, Unique, Sno-Pruff, Mink Oil, Kiwi neutral shoe wax, etc. I tossed my nasty original case lube pad and STP type oils away forty years ago and have never looked back.
Fact is, stuck case "lube failures" are almost always application failures. Seems many folk lube the upper case body very well (but it's not much needed there) instead of the lower case body where lube is desperately needed.
The extra force required to insert an improperly lubed case into a sizing die is our only feedback to take it out and start over; ignore that warning and it's stuck case remover time!
I'll second the comments regarding Imperial Die Wax... I've had my tin for a LONG time and it works very well. Takes very, very little per case.
I use Hornady lube and a lube pad. Lube is less than $5.00 and I have lubed about 5000 .223 cases and have 2/3 of a bottle left.
lanolin and alcohol
google — “case lube for cheap ********” for the recipe
i clean it off by dry tumbling in tiny 20/40grit corncob media
.
A member that has passed now turned me on to a mix of lanolin / Vaseline melted together that is a little thinner than imperial wax but is a fantastic case lube . I use it on a pad or a dab on my fingers it seems like a 1/2 pint will last forever . Now my imperial wax will probably last me a lifetime .
As a spray lube the homemade lanolin / alcohol takes care of all my strait wall sizing before polishing .
I smear Imperial Sizing Wax onto a clean RCBS lube pad.
Roll a case across the pad, size the case and wipe off the lube on that case with a paper towel.
I found I used much less lube by smearing the Wax on the lube pad than directly lubing the cases with my fingers.
If the pad starts to feel dry I just rub a finger around on the pad to redistribute the Wax that’s on the pad.
In a few months I’ll be finishing off the first can I bought in 2005.
I've never had a stuck case in some 35 years of handloading. I started with the Lee case lube in the tube, applying it with a small dab between my thumb and forefinger case by case by case...
Enter Hornady One Shot... what a time saver, and again, never a stuck case. But now that stuff is pushing $17 a can. No way... that's just ridiculous.
So I ordered 99% isopropyl alcohol and liquid lanolin and will start using that when my last can of One Shot is gone. I also ordered some industrial grade spray bottles as the cheaper ones here in the local stores don't last long at all.