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Has anyone ever used this product? Did it perform as advertised? Will it pull a crimped, gas checked bullet? Was the gas check removed with the bullet? Thanks for your feedback. I just didn’t want to make the purchase, and end up renaming it a “Gripe” -n- Pull! memtb
I think that leaving a check in the case neck has nothing to do with type of puller used. I have left checks in cases with collet and impact pullers. As far as how this one will work, idk.
In my opinion, grip or collet pullets don't work for me on cast boolits. Give me an impact puller or a set of side cuttets to use with a reliading press.
ETA: I had a different puller in mind. That one should work along the lines of a pair of side cutters as long as the holes have some "teeth" and are not smooth.
I have no experience with that particular product, but do have inertia and collet pullers. The collet pullers, assuming that the collet is the proper size, will pull cast bullets but will usually mar them with a ring. The inertia pullers work best for me on cast if I desire to reuse the bullet. I've experienced gas checks left in the necks, and it is a pain to deal with. Usually I'll poke something in there like a stiff piece of wire to try and get the check to turn sideways, then grab the edge with some medical forceps and pull it out.
DG
Ought to work for most jacketed bullets but suspect it might deform properly seated/crimped cast boolits if closed tightly enough to get a sold grip. I say 'most jacketed' because I've occasionally encountered old milsurp that even an RCBS collet puller...dusted inside with rosin...wouldn't break loose.
Bill
Don't have one and probably wouldn't pay $40.00 for one. Before you purchase, try a pair of pliers. Cast won't be reusable and j bullets may be damaged with the teeth of the pliers, but the principle/use is the same. With the different caliber holes less damage will be done to the bullets If the tool will give a good tight grip on the bullet, it will work...
Those inertia pullers are very frustrating to say the least. I tried mine a few times, put it back in the original packaging and hung it high on the wall. Been there for several years now. The reloading press and a pair of side cutters gets it done for me. Yes, it does leave a mark on the bullet, but that bullet eventually gets thrown into the melting pot and comes back as a brand new bullet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraschenbirn
If you seat the bullet a little deaper first it breaks the bond and the bullet will come out easier.
Larry
Thanks guys for all of the comments. I believe that this may be a “non purchase” item! I’ve used the inertia type “extractor” on a few crimped, 430 grain, 45-70’s. A multitude of hard blows were required to remove a bullet.....perhaps, just shooting them is easier! :Fire: memtb
I have an RCBS and Frankford arsenal kinetic puller. The RCBS is the better of the 2. I have a 4x4 block of wood i strike on. It's more of a snap movement. Flick of the wrist. Once i learned that. It made a big difference on the frustration level .
One benefit of casting boolits is not having to worry about damaging the boolit, when pulling it by mechanically holding it. Just re cast it. I don’t think the type of puller will make a difference as far as the gas check is concerned.
I bought and tried the Hornaday puller on the press trying to remove a lead 255gr bullet. The collet totally mangled the bullet.
The Hornaday now peacefully rests somewhere in a closet
The Grip-N-Pull is like a pair of pliers ... they do OK on J-Words , might leave a mark depending on how hard you grip it ... crimped military FMJ bullets can be marked .
Cast Boolits will be mangled , left unusable and need remelting .
They have no affect on the gas check . Inertia puller is still the best for salvaging boolits and bullets . Grip-N-Pull is fast to use , no collets required but can damage .
When pulling boolits with Inertia Puller ... seat boolit 1/8" deeper to break crimp , then pull .
Makes a difference ...especially with military ammo .
Gary
Long ago I've used similar (if not actually the Forster) pullers that required a collet, and did not like using a separate single stage press for the die or the extra expense of (and storage for) collets.
By necessity and happenstance I acquired FOUR inertia pullers and would rather use one than other methods. I'm tempted to get a Honady LNL puller, maybe if I see one at a gun show I will, not that I have to pull MY bullets you understand!
Years ago after my local playful poltergeist took and hid my first RCBS puller I was given a batch of pristine unfired bullets at a range for free, so I bought a second RCBS puller to do the job.
Years later (a few months ago actually) a friend of a friend gave me some 600 9mm's that were Waayyy over powered with bullseye and needed to be pulled. My poltergeist returned and playfully hid my two RCBS pullers!!!
Given that I had zero 9mm brass, not one 115gr 9mm FMJ bullet, and really could have used the bullseye and primed brass so I bought a Frankford, which I did NOT like and started pulling. Somewhere after 200-300 rounds, I went into a LGS and there was a NIB Lyman bullet puller there for ten buckazoids. Two seconds in my hand with that padded handle was all it took to take it home.
I used it to pull the balance of the 9's and would only use the others if the poltergeist hid the Lyman :-)
So, here they are in ranking:
#1 Lyman - Cast / machined beautifully. The cap spins on and off with ease and that padded handle is perfect to work with. Vibrations to the hand are minimal
#2 RCBS - Fitment is almost as good as the Lyman, plastic handle transmits shock and vibration to the hand. Nuff said.
#3 (and a DISTANT third at that) The Frankford has a horrible cap to body fit. It's a pain to tighten and loosen. I'd 86 it, but someday some loader will need one and I'll not part with 1 or 2 :-)
Oh, All use a standard inverted shell holder without issues. Some have said a high primer "could" detonate using a standard shell holder, but I think it's poppycock. The short answer (if you believe in urban legends like this) is don't pull high primers.
Caveat... very light bullets, those with a heavy roll crimp as well as full wad cutters are a pain.
Attachment 271198
A big Thank You to all that gave their opinions and preferences.....and why! I have a 40 or so year old Lyman, which I had used to remove the previously mentioned bullets. It worked....though it “worked” me a bit! I may get the new Lyman that gnappi highly recommended. It’s inexpensive, improved over my 40 year old model, and exhibits none to minimal damage to the cast bullets. If it doesn’t work any better than my relic.....I have a minimal investment and a spare puller! memtb
Thinking on the subject of inertia pullers, I sincerely doubt if there is more than two or three different manufacturers, so comparing the various vendor's product is of no matter. I believe there is an order put in by a vendor (Hornady, FA, MidWay, etc.) for a specific color and the same manufacturer makes the same product and just adds the vendor's name.
I tried a collet pulling die (RCBS?) but it was slower than the impact tool and difficult to grab a 429421 in my 44 Handloads. Worked OK on some surplus 30-06 w/147 j bullets, but slow...
When I use my impact, which I've owned so long I forget who I bought it from, I use a lead anvil. I often just pick up one of my muffin ingots (puck) and whack it. Much, much quieter, and my "Mystery Metal" casting alloy does not deaden the blow enough to make any difference. A foam ear plug dropped in the puller protects bullet noses too. I also use a standard shell holder instead of the aluminum collet, easier and faster. Several years ago I read using a standard shell holder was dangerous as using one would allow (?) rounds to fire. Sounded silly and not heard anything like that in quite a while...
MDL, I had not considered using a lead ingot as an anvil, I'll try that!
I have been looking at these for a while and ended up buying one on a online estate type sale for $27.50. Works good for me. Its a lot quicker than other methods, but may have problems if bullets are crimped in really strong. I have some old military rounds of different types that don't want to come out with the collet style and have to use the hammer type. For cast it would be a snap but would probably damage the bullet, which isnt a deal for me
As Gary mentioned above, the Grip n Pull will leave marks on jacketed bullets. The harder to remove, the deeper the marks. Cast bullets will have tooth marks in them and probably won't be reusable. I'd say that the chances of the GC staying on the bullet is same regardless of type of puller used. Also, if you use a Co-Ax, I'd make sure I have another press with thread in dies for the Grip n Pull.
I do have and have used a Grip n Pull FWIW. I greatly prefer a impact puller.
I've never ponied up the money for an actual Grip-N-Pull tool, but I have pulled several jacketed bullets on a single stage press using a set of end nips (side cutters would work too). All you need is a shell holder. Usually no or very light mark on the jacket.
I wouldn't be worried about using the bullet in another load.
Cast is another story. If I pull a cast boolit, it gets remelted. Normally you have to dig deeper to hold the softer material. I have been lucky enough to not have to pull anything with gas checks, so I don't know how they will react to being pulled.
Robert
I have the Hornady & the RCBS. NO they WILL NOT PULL MY CAST BULLETS!!
I've had an RCBS collect bullet puller for 40+yrs. Have 6 or 7 collets.
Great for Rifle bullets that show bearing surface above the crimp.
WILL NOT work on most Jacketed pistol bullets. Worthless on cast.
The impact hammers are great. Just like an eraser on a pencil. It's great for a few mistakes.
Try doing 150 .44Mags with one. The harder the surface you smack them on, the better they work.
The tighter the bullet pull & crimp ? The more "smacks" you'll need.
Wire stripper or side cutters. If a short case, just use a short section of PVC pipe. Case in press, slip PVC over it, extend ram, grip with stripper and lower ram. The hornady collet works on jacketed but seat deeper to break the 'bond' so bullet is not damaged.
An aside; An old feller told me many years ago. "There is only one way to eat an elephant, that's one bite at a time". So, when I wanted to pull 100 HXP rounds, I whacked as many as I felt OK doing at one time (surplus military ammo and some took many whacks). One time I did 40, and the rest of the sessions were from, 5 or 6 to 12-15. Before I knew it, I was done...
I found this one at a gun show several years ago, $3.00. Pulled a lot of 8mm surplus ammo bullets. Even did some 7.62X39
steel case bullets. It worked okay till arthritis started to make it too hard to grip. Now I use an RCBS collet puller. It's slower but, at my age it does the job, no problem.Attachment 271483
If you put a wad of sponge in the bottom of the inertia puller the bullet will not get damaged.Quote:
Originally Posted by james23
IDK for sure because you mentioned a specific product. In general I've used both collet pullers and impact pullers depending on the task at hand and frankly they are all a pain. If we could just avoid mistakes and what we think are other people's mistakes which give us an opportunity for reclaiming bullets we would be better off with more time for loading. Alas we are all human and you should expect very mixed results.
I have used a foam ear plug for this for the past 30 os so years. Just the right size and lasts a very long time.Quote:
Originally Posted by gnappi
RCBS I bought has the foam/rubber installed. More than 5yrs ago.
I've used pliers and side cutters. I've used inertia pullers. Both methods have draw backs. I was thinking about buying the RCBS collet system. But now I think that I'm going to make one of these sprung pullers out of some 3/8" x 1 1/4" steel flat bar that I have in my shop.
This Grip-n-pull-bullet-puller reminds me of a blacksmithing tool called a sprung rivet header. It is just a steel bar with a series of holes, and a saw cut down the middle, that gets held in a post-vise. I'm actually having a hard time believing that they issued this guy a patent on such an old, and simple preexisting clamping system.
JM
I been using those big fence pliers you see in the rural farm stores.
They have a big hook on one side and a hammer head on the other for pounding staples. In the middle there is a curved round jaw on one side and meets up with another round jaw on the other for gripping big wire and staples an big nails Looks about .30 caliber.
But they also got serrated jaws also that sill grip almost anything.Anyway
I just put the shell In the shell holder and run it up in the press where it sticks out the hole. I lay a big flat washer over the threaded area around the bullet to protect the threads. Then just get a good grip on the bullet with the pliers using the curves or any part of the plier jaws that grips the size bullet best and haul down on the press handle.
If one part of the jaws slips of just get another bite with another part.
These old fence pliers have never failed me.