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I trim my revolver brass for a consistent crimp. But I've never trimmed my automatic brass. The taper crimp does an acceptable job of dealing with the inconsistencies. I'm wondering though if I would see any benefit to trimming. Particularly in 45 acp but it's an across the board pondering.
I know most here don't bother, but are there any that do trim automatic pistol brass?
Bazoo
No point in trimming auto brass. It usually shortens with use. I believe since it headspaces on the case mouth that every time it gets slammed into the chamber, it acts as a check to keep it from getting any longer.
You never have to trim brass for semiautomatic handguns. You'll lose them in the grass before they ever need trimming. :drinks:
Here is an article that deals with the need for trimming of handgun cases in some detail.
http://www.massreloading.com/loading45ACP.html
I have never trimmed a pistol case. But I only shoot .38, 9mm, 40, and .45ACP.
Seems like a waste of time.
Thanks Taz, that was a good read.
if you have to trim it, something is very wrong.
I fully agree with "never trim pistol brass". I reload it until it splits, has some other physical damage or is lost. That that is not lost goes to the recycler for primer or powder money.
I have never had a roll crimp issue with any revolver due to variation in case length, or a chambering problem in semi-autos for the same reason. If I did refer back to recycling.
That is what I have been doing since 1967, anyway.
The only reason I ever trimmed revolver brass was because the variances would show themselves during crimping. Even though every bullet was seated the exact same depth, during roll crimping, it would move the bullet based on how long the case was. All of a sudden OAL's can vary .010" or more just from crimping. The easy solution for me was to go to a collet crimp die. For the most part it eliminates this problem altogether. Because auto cases don't crimp into a groove, they don't have this problem either. Another aspect on a revolver is that a longer case would crimp slightly harder than a shorter case. Since a taper crimp isn't a crimp (or shouldn't be used as such), this is not a factor in an auto case. I wouldn't blame somebody for running the cases through a gauge to make sure they aren't too long, but trimming doesn't gain you anything. That time is better spent sorting head stamps if you need the best of the best accuracy.
I trim 44 magnum... But those grow if you shoot full house rounds... I don't trim other pistol rounds.
I shoot NRA bullseye pistol ,where everyone is looking for the last fraction of an inch of accuracy. 2% of shooters trim their brass, 98% do not. Some of the top,top shooters may use new brass to accomplish the same thing. There is very little to gain by trimming brass. Using a premium bullet is far more important.
Thanks for all the replies. WV, thanks for that tidbit. How many of those folks sort by headstamp?
Thanks Tazman. That was interesting. Would be neat to uniform the primer pocket and keep on testing.
Thanks Tazman! The article illustrated a problem I was having with .45 Colt cases- after a few reloadings I couldn't get the cases in the shellholder. Turns out the small extraction groove was shrinking enough to prevent the case from entering the shell holder.
Loren
I’ve been reloading since the 80’s and I’ve never trimmed pistol brass
^^^ditto
FWIW, I used to worry about the revolver crimp and case length. Then I got the Lee crimp dies. They don't depend on case length and IMHO they make a better crimp.
Don't trim either, but a while back on another forum there was a lot of discussion on making accurate 9mm pistols and ammo. One poster ran tests of run of the mine versus trimmed 9mm and repored a significant increase in accuracy with the trimmed cases. Think it was the Bullseye-L forum.
Interesting rich thanks.
Well I will have to do some testing myself.
I did one batch back when I first got my Gold Cup.
I had a box of high end, name brand match bullets, and trimmed a sorted batch of known once fired, same head stamp,
name brand cases just try and see just how accurate it, the pistol, and myself could be.
It went well, but not enough difference to do all that again unless I was shooting for the Bianchi Cup.
Thanks for your addition Ed.
I'm not the best shot, but I'm no slouch either. I seen a difference in the wife's 686 between mixed brass and sorted/trimmed brass. I did not test same headstamp but not trimmed.
I normal check for length of what is too short in 9mm and then I would short them more to make my own type of shorts in the 9mm to shoot in my wheel gun. that way it is easy for me pick them out . That is what I normal do with my handgun brass.
Well...I have...and it was Starline .32 H&R brass...and Starline is usually the standard by which I judge all other reloading brass. This particular brass varied considerably in length...and subsequent groups, after trimming to a uniform length (in effect uniforming the amount of crimp) showed marked improvement...YMMv, RodQuote:
I have never had a roll crimp issue with any revolver due to variation in case length
I did one large batch of 45 acp when I started in bullseye matches. About 1/2 were cleaned up by the cutter, the others just touched by it.
Since then I separate batches by headstamp and measure them with calipers. They are set aside in groups according to length, .003 is the number i used for this purpose.
I've never done any trimming to auto brass, but I do trim revolver brass.
I have trimmed revolver and auto brass way back in my past , I trim handgun brass no more.
It gives me an anxiety attack just thinking about with the amount of brass I have now.:groner:
Same boat here. I trimmed some auto brass year back, but I stopped shortly there-after. I taper crimp my auto ammo so variations in length aren't super critical. I trim all revolver brass however.Quote:
Originally Posted by onelight
My full power magnum revolver loads are all loaded in new or once fired brass both jacketed and cast bullets they then go into my medium to light load stash and last for many loadings with cast boolits with an occasional annealing .
for the .38spl revolvers, they only get fed starline brass hand loads that i've never seen a need for case trimming after at least dozens of firings.
for the 9mm semi-autos, they only get fed a huge assortment of once-fired cleaned range brass hand loads that are typically one bang! and gone.
oh, when i was into 1911's the .45 brass was starline, all hand loads, and fire brass horded, but never had a need for case trimming.
Never trim pistol brass. Use an X die for rifle, keeps it to a minimum (1 time)