My glue is not drying.

I powdered, cream-o-wheated and added carpenter glue to my shells and today, 72 hours later the glue under the semi-hardened top is still wet. I have no doubt it will stay wet even if I give it a week or two. Just like in the bottle. Close the cap and the rest in the bottle stays wet. Soooooo, what kind of a mess is this going to make when I fire these puppies trying to form these cases. Burned on glue in the bore???? Next time these babies are going to get 10 grains of Unique and a round#00 buckshot in the end instead of COW+ GLUE!!!
Any thoughts or suggestions will be welcomed.:veryconfu

I would think that glue would not be that hard to get out. What caliber are you trying to make out of what parent case?

Can you set them in a warm window?

8x56 Hungarian fired in a Swede rolling block to form 8x58Rd.

I rigged a light over them with a thermometer. 250 watt bulb for 3 hours temp at mouth end 100 F.

Attachment 216284
Attachment 216285

These cases were topped off with the glue and have set for three days prior to the lamp treatment today.

Hot glue and never look back!

Thanks John Boy, but what is your advice for my current problem? Shoot them even tho they are somewhat still wet?

Keep your cleaning rod handy, and don't fire one without inspecting the bore...It looks like a long haul for you...

I use Gulf Wax(paraffin) for canning over the COW when case forming. I would use a good oil in the barrel and run oil patch after every 3-5 rounds, then clean thoroughly Ed's Red or any decent solvent should clean out the gunk when done fireforming.

make some shot cards or a wad like they use for blank loads i would never use glue or hot glue... and yes wax works as well

Ditto about putting them in a sunny window.

Patience, keep them warm for a week or two and they will dry.

Yes on next batch I would use buckshot or a foam cap with a few drops of wax.

I have shot hot glue bullets with just a primer down the bore, found no evidence of melting.
But most are going too fast and shatter when they hit the target.

Poke em with a toothpick, north, south, east, west and center. Then put them under a desk lamp like MOA. Then switch to an over powder wad and hot glue.

I use candle wax or bullet lube in the case mouths. I save any lube that squeezes out of my luber sizer just for this. Beeswax also works well.

Well it all came out ok. I decided I was not going to wait and wait and wait. Grabbed the cleaning rod and headed out to get them shot dry or wet, all shot just fine, nothing was left in barrel. Shot at a old laminate table top leaned up against a pole from twenty feet away, checked bore visually every five or six rounds for first two boxes, no change in appearance so proceeded to shoot all one hundred without issues. Bore cleaned as usual Hoppe's, brush, rag, oil rag. Now its all ready for today's second form firing, no glue this time just powder and a OO buckshot pressed into the case mouth. Boolits are next on the schedule for testing, have two hundred Lee Karabiner's all ready to load up.

When a person uses buckshot like that, what keeps them from leading the barrel? Or, do you tumble them in Alox? Just wondering, as I have heard others mention the same and I did not understand the dynamic here that allows such, without leading.

Thanks for the time answering.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by corbinace

When a person uses buckshot like that, what keeps them from leading the barrel? Or, do you tumble them in Alox? Just wondering, as I have heard others mention the same and I did not understand the dynamic here that allows such, without leading.

Thanks for the time answering.

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Alox is the correct answer.

Never used more than a 1/4 sheet of toilet paper tamped down on top of the filler. Fire the cases while the rifle is vertical. Always got lopsided cases when fired with the rifle level.

wind may help more than heat.

after I load them with COW, i just push the case mouth into a bar of hard IVORY SOAP and VIOLA! you have a sealer that will work every time and stay hard!.

I really like the great ideas guys,
the soap
the lube
the quarter paper tamped in
and the canning wax
Now who said group think was not such a good idea.

now, i think they, the powers to be call what we are doing is called a THINK TANK??? fancy title for good old SWAMP YANKEE common sense, you gotta love it!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 15meter

Never used more than a 1/4 sheet of toilet paper tamped down on top of the filler. Fire the cases while the rifle is vertical. Always got lopsided cases when fired with the rifle level.

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This, exactly!!!

Quote:

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make some shot cards or a wad like they use for blank loads i would never use glue or hot glue

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Interesting that you state never to use hot glue ... I have reloaded many boxes of 16 & 12ga black powder brass hulls with over shot cards and a ring of hot glue with no issues cleaning the barrels

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MOA

Well it all came out ok. I decided I was not going to wait and wait and wait. Grabbed the cleaning rod and headed out to get them shot dry or wet, all shot just fine, nothing was left in barrel. Shot at a old laminate table top leaned up against a pole from twenty feet away, checked bore visually every five or six rounds for first two boxes, no change in appearance so proceeded to shoot all one hundred without issues. Bore cleaned as usual Hoppe's, brush, rag, oil rag. Now its all ready for today's second form firing, no glue this time just powder and a OO buckshot pressed into the case mouth. Boolits are next on the schedule for testing, have two hundred Lee Karabiner's all ready to load up.

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I'm glad that all worked out for you.
You don't mention exactly what Cases you are fire forming, maybe it is in another thread that I haven't read.
Anyway, why don't you just load boolits?
That's what I do when fire-forming 257rob brass into 257Rx6.5

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe

I'm glad that all worked out for you.
You don't mention exactly what Cases you are fire forming, maybe it is in another thread that I haven't read.
Anyway, why don't you just load boolits?
That's what I do when fire-forming 257rob brass into 257Rx6.5

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John, I was fire forming cases for a new 1867 Swedish sporting rolling block which is chambered in a now obsolete cartridge of 8x58Rd. I'm using the 8mm Hungarian case which is 2mm shorter than the original case. Part of the reason for not using boolits yet is due to wanting to make sure chamber is large enough to release boolit upon firing, I have discovered that the chamber is very generous to the extent that a fire formed case mouth is large enough to just drop a unsized boolit into with room left over to spare. Just got a Lee collet neck sizer and have sent a dummy sample of case with boolit to Lee and they are making a custom FCD up for it so in the future I will only neck and light crimp. I don't need crimp to shoot paper, but will not take hunting unless boolit is crimped in place. Here is the cartridge, I'm waiting for the factory crimp die to arrive to crimp and then shoot some paper.

https://s19.postimg.org/61c7fxrxv/20180401_052627.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MOA

John, I was fire forming cases for a new 1867 Swedish sporting rolling block which is chambered in a now obsolete cartridge of 8x58Rd. I'm using the 8mm Hungarian case which is 2mm shorter than the original case. Part of the reason for not using boolits yet is due to wanting to make sure chamber is large enough to release boolit upon firing, I have discovered that the chamber is very generous to the extent that a fire formed case mouth is large enough to just drop a unsized boolit into with room left over to spare. Just got a Lee collet neck sizer and have sent a dummy sample of case with boolit to Lee and they are making a custom FCD up for it so in the future I will only neck and light crimp. I don't need crimp to shoot paper, but will not take hunting unless boolit is crimped in place. Here is the cartridge, I'm waiting for the factory crimp die to arrive to crimp and then shoot some paper.

https://s19.postimg.org/61c7fxrxv/20180401_052627.jpg

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If your bullets are sliding into a fired case that easily, you will most likely need a larger diameter bullet for good accuracy. You want a bit of resistance inserting a bullet into a fired unsized case. That will give you a good throat fit. As is, the bullet is going to kinda rattle around in the bore until it decides to squirt out the end. It sounds like you are going to be paper patching, so this problem is solved.

Waksupi, I will first try to beagle the mold and play with the alloy before I have to start thinking about zig zagging the boolits. Not that I'm opposed to wrapping them, it would certainly be in keeping with the period.