Coleman Stove

I recently picked up a Coleman model 424 duel fuel (gasoline) camp stove at a charity store.
It is BRAND NEW ! Dusty on the outside but still had the tape and packing material inside. Never been fired up. I got a really good deal on it.

I prefer the pressurized kerosene stoves over the gasoline models for actual cooking duties and intended to use this one to smelt lead.

Well; I got it home, wiped the dust off and removed all of the packing materials. It's just too nice ! I can't bring myself to put a lead on it.

Guess I have an extra camp stove .....

Poor fellow!!! [good catch]

I now have 4 portable stoves and only 1 that I use for lead.

Got my priorities all out of whack :wink:

What kerosene stoves are you using, that you like?

I'm looking for a good one, for camping not lead -- gases or gasoline seems better for lead.

I have a Coleman Exponent (which is also sold as the Peak 1 550B) with the kerosene generator installed. The Coleman has a copper colored tank and the Peak has a grey one but it's stamped "Coleman" on the bottom. It's a great little single burner stove. It's a little big for backpacking because it's a one piece stove with an integral tank.
I also have a Optimus 155. The 155 is technically a marine stove and has two burners. It's about the size of a Coleman 424 two burner "suitcase" stove but really is made to be placed in a galley of a boat.
Kerosene stoves must be pre-heated so you need a small supply of alcohol or lighter fluid to get them started (just like pressurized kerosene lanterns than lack pre-heaters). Kerosene provides a lot of BTU's for its weight and is one of the more efficient fuels. Once you master the operation of a kerosene stove or lantern, they provide years of great service.

There are a lot of older European kerosene stoves made by Primus, Optimus and other manufactures. There's an entire kerosene stove/lantern community and some serious collectors out there ! I'm not one of them but I do prefer kerosene to gasoline.

Thanks, I'll look for that Coleman.

I've nothing but good to say about kero collectors. One offered me so much for my great old Ender's, that loved either kero or gas, that I'm now kero stove-less.

I have bought several Coleman gasoline stoves at garage sales and thrift stores, usually only spend about $5 for one. Many times they are rusty, or missing parts, or damaged worn out parts. I have pieced together many of them into working units.

I do have a couple that I acquired that look like new and would never use them for Lead or wax.

I had one set aside for only Lead and Lube (and wax firestarters)...that one lasted about 4 years of heavy use and now beyond repair...I have another one set to go...I used it a couple times for Lube, but haven't smelted any lead for a while, but it's good to go ...I'd like to figure out a good way to re-enforce the stove body/grate without spending too much money or time, to better handle the weight of a 40lb soup pot full of molten lead.

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Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe

I'd like to figure out a good way to re-enforce the stove body/grate without spending too much money or time, to better handle the weight of a 40lb soup pot full of molten lead.

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A case to grate length piece of steel pipe, with needed cutouts, around the burner; which will also increase efficiency by directing heat to the pot, rather than the world at large. If pipe and pot are matched well enough, lifting the grate is even better.

Lucky man Great find

I got rid of my single burner Coleman backpacking stove after it shot fuel all over my hand and arm. I pumped it up as directed, let it burn for a minute, and then pumped it up again the prescribed number of times. When I let go of the pump a stream of gas shot out of the air hole in the pump and set me afire. After waving my arm frantically a couple of times and hearing the whooshing sound the flames made, I realized that I should stop panicking, and stuffed my hand and arm under my jacket and it went right out. I still have a regular Coleman gas stove and trust it for some reason.

Bad check valve. Easy to fix but troubling when it's spraying you with gasoline !

sometimes it SCARY to read what you guys do . that thing was never meant to have 20 or 30lbs on it . much less having 450* lead near a gas tank.
but looks like a few have lived .
just wonder how many didnt

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Originally Posted by Landy88

A case to grate length piece of steel pipe, with needed cutouts, around the burner; which will also increase efficiency by directing heat to the pot, rather than the world at large. If pipe and pot are matched well enough, lifting the grate is even better.

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that sure would be better than a couple pieces of 2x4, LOL.
but seriously, that gives me an idea...I can't think of a inexpensive source for a chunk of large pipe...but maybe I cutup a heavy duty stainless soup pot that's about the same size as the one I'm using... :Bright idea:

I just dug up this link/photos for another thread, and may as well post it here as well.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...nc-never-again

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sometimes it SCARY to read what you guys do . that thing was never meant to have 20 or 30lbs on it

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I used that stove the night I got home and found my first ever mold sitting on my door step. I put a small pot on it and my goal was to make just one boolit that I could look at while getting stuff together to make a big batch.

After the Oxy kicked in, I managed to try again and get a few Lee 148 gr wadcutters poured. Now I have many molds in many calibers :-).

I bought one years ago just for bullet casting. Gas is cheaper than white gas. So, regular gas will clog it up in about 2-3 tanks of fuel. I tried several brands, octane etc. Always the same result. If you find a brand, octane whatever that goes past 4-5 tanks full, please share. Also, I found the temp would drift off lower unless I kept pumping it up. Kind of a PITA for a 30# batch off match bullets. Went to electric and not looked back. You can buy garage sale stuff for parts cheap, good luck with that.

I've never had a problem with unleaded gasoline in a Coleman duel fuel stove. The key is to NEVER leave gasoline in the stove. Burn it all out until it quits.Also, use gasoline not gasohol. Octane rating has nothing to do with it and you're better off with the low grade (87 octane) which is generally what you end up with if buying pure gasoline anyway. The generator tube should be hot when the stove runs dry.
If you end up with a full tank right before you are done with the stove, let the stove cool down and drain most of the fuel back into your storage can. Then, re-light the stove with the remaining gas and let it run completely dry.

Back before the ethanol problem was forced on us (Thank You Congress), Amoco Ultimate unleaded was the preferred gasoline for duel fuel stoves. Now than most gasoline has 10% ethanol mixed in, you're better off with any brand as long as it's pure gasoline.

I tried the white gas Coleman stove one time. By the time I got the lead melted and fluxed the grill bars were beginning to bend from the weight and heat.
I now use a single burner (Coleman) propane stove that is working very well for me. The shorter, fat propane bottles last for about 100lbs of smelting before it need a new bottle.

I refill my small propane bottles from my big ones with an adapter from Amazon. You freeze the small bottle for 1/3 for best results

Tools are tools which are made to use......that's all got to say about that!

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Originally Posted by ascast

I bought one years ago just for bullet casting. Gas is cheaper than white gas. So, regular gas will clog it up in about 2-3 tanks of fuel. I tried several brands, octane etc. Always the same result. If you find a brand, octane whatever that goes past 4-5 tanks full, please share. Also, I found the temp would drift off lower unless I kept pumping it up. Kind of a PITA for a 30# batch off match bullets. Went to electric and not looked back. You can buy garage sale stuff for parts cheap, good luck with that.

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I am not using a dual fuel stove. All my garage sale stoves are the traditional style designed for Coleman fuel (white gas). I use the cheapest "Non-Oxy gas" from the gas pump and in Minnesota, that is the premium gas, high octane, that is the only pump gas available without alcohol (Non-Oxy).

I don't have any clogging issues. The only problem I have had, and it was only one time, was the "generator" bent. I assume it's from the heat from countless hours of smelting lead alloys. Since I can buy a good used stove for less than the price of a new Generator, I just scrapped out the stove, and plan to use a different one.

I should state, the with Non-Oxy Pump gas, the Flame does burn more of a orange color, as opposed to the nice blue color you get when burning coleman fuel.

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Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe

I am not using a dual fuel stove. All my garage sale stoves are the traditional style designed for Coleman fuel (white gas). I use the cheapest "Non-Oxy gas" from the gas pump and in Minnesota, that is the premium gas, high octane, that is the only pump gas available without alcohol (Non-Oxy).

I don't have any clogging issues. The only problem I have had, and it was only one time, was the "generator" bent. I assume it's from the heat from countless hours of smelting lead alloys. Since I can buy a good used stove for less than the price of a new Generator, I just scrapped out the stove, and plan to use a different one.

I should state, the with Non-Oxy Pump gas, the Flame does burn more of a orange color, as opposed to the nice blue color you get when burning coleman fuel.

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What is white gas anyway?

Google->wikipedia

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Originally Posted by Traffer

What is white gas anyway?

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Attachment 199397

I don't know the exact formula, but it comes in an expensive can.

It's Naptha.

I've been using my old Coleman double burner propane stove that bounced out of the bed of my pick up and looks so ratty I didn't mind assigning it lead duty.

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Originally Posted by mold maker

I don't know the exact formula, but it comes in an expensive can.

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/\ that's the most succinct description of Coleman fuel I've ever read /\

I had a new green deluxe 2 burner I bought about 10 years ago for a hunting trip n never used. I went through 16 to 20 cans of the lil green tanks at $6.32 a pair from Walmart to smelt the last two weeks. I'll never be eating off that stove again. lol

I can tell you it gets way hotter than the stove in my house. Lead will instantly oxidize so I have to play with the adjustment knob a little to play with the heat setting.

I might have to break down and get an electric lee melting pot for bullet making and use the Coleman strictly for smelling only.

OK I'll bite- my local gas station has one grade of non-ethylonol, 91 octane., of course-no lead. Will this stuff burn clean, tank after tank ?

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Originally Posted by ascast

OK I'll bite- my local gas station has one grade of non-ethylonol, 91 octane., of course-no lead. Will this stuff burn clean, tank after tank ?

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YES, in a duel fuel stove in which one of the acceptable fuels is gasoline. And just for the record, the octane rating isn't remotely relevant for that type of use.

"I had a new green deluxe 2 burner I bought about 10 years ago for a hunting trip n never used. I went through 16 to 20 cans of the lil green tanks at $6.32 a pair from Walmart to smelt the last two weeks. I'll never be eating off that stove again. lol"
You can get a adapter for your large propane tank to fill the little green ones. Freeze the little green tank for at leas 1/3 hour first (helps you get more propane in it), have the big tank upside down connect the 2 tanks and open both valves. when the little one is full shut them of and repeat. Much more economical. There a videos on youtube and I got my adapter at amazon

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Originally Posted by ascast

OK I'll bite- my local gas station has one grade of non-ethylonol, 91 octane., of course-no lead. Will this stuff burn clean, tank after tank ?

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Each State has it's own rules and laws about gasoline additives. I can only assume that NY's gas laws are same or similar to MN. There are other additives besides ethanol. With that said, In Minnesota, the only automotive Gasoline with no ethanol, is the Premium 91 octane that is labeled "Non-Oxygenated", we do have Premium 91 Octane gasoline that is Oxygenated with the addition of ethanol, I don't use that.

That is why I stated in my previous post, what I use is Non-Oxy pump gas. I've burnt many gallons of that Non-Oxy pump gas in several stoves, for brewing beer, canning garden produce, as well as smelting lead and making wax fire starters...and never had a problem of clogging a generator. I use it in the older standard coleman gasoline camp stoves. I don't know when Coleman came out with the dual fuel stoves? but all the coleman dual fuel stoves I've seen were painted grey, none of mine are painted grey and none of them have any indication that they are dual fuel.

Now when you say burn clean? I will say burning pump gas gives a yellow flame (at low settings) instead of a blue flame. and even at High settings, there is a yellow tip on the blue flame. I assume those are the additives? and they will soot up the bottom of the fry pan/smelt pot.

When we were kids (early 60's) I remember several gas stations had pumps marked 'White Gas'. Used to fill our Coleman cans up with it. I think it was around 20 cents a gallon. They gave you a trading stamp too! Tulsa gas station trading stamps purchased a lot of camping / fishing gear for us.

I've always believed that the duel fuel colemans meant coleman fuel and gasolene.
Gasolene in europe = naptha or was.

The petrol you burn has some not so pleasant additives which may end up turning you into a pumpkin head.

It is advised to use down wind outdoors.

Ohh buy the way the only stove that will burn pre-mixed outboard fuel and still live long enough to work is the 80's style MSR yellow pumper XGK.

Ohh my ears!!!!

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Originally Posted by Grmps

You can get a adapter for your large propane tank to fill the little green ones. Freeze the little green tank for at leas 1/3 hour first (helps you get more propane in it), have the big tank upside down connect the 2 tanks and open both valves. when the little one is full shut them of and repeat. Much more economical. There a videos on youtube and I got my adapter at amazon

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Most of those tanks are designed and built for single use only and don't have the fatigue life to be safely refilled. I've seen more then a few disposable propane torch tanks that failed when people tried refilling them. Fortunately no one was injured.

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Originally Posted by Kilosierra

Most of those tanks are designed and built for single use only and don't have the fatigue life to be safely refilled. I've seen more then a few disposable propane torch tanks that failed when people tried refilling them. Fortunately no one was injured.

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"disposable propane torch tanks", these are the most fun 'plinking targets' for large bore revolvers.

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Originally Posted by Kilosierra

Most of those tanks are designed and built for single use only and don't have the fatigue life to be safely refilled. I've seen more then a few disposable propane torch tanks that failed when people tried refilling them. Fortunately no one was injured.

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How do they fail? I have refilled mine dozens of times ( back in the day) and the only thing that goes bad is the relief valve used for venting sometimes will not seal properly then I have to throw them out to pasture. Maybe I will see more than a few failures if I fill 1000s of them.

We sell the refillable tanks now so I don't have to mess with the disposable ones any more. I like even better using the bulk adapter to connect to the #20 pound tank.

I live in Northern Indiana Amish country and still buy "white gas" from the pump!

Lucky me!

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Originally Posted by lwknight

How do they fail? I have refilled mine dozens of times ( back in the day) and the only thing that goes bad is the relief valve used for venting sometimes will not seal properly then I have to throw them out to pasture. Maybe I will see more than a few failures if I fill 1000s of them.

We sell the refillable tanks now so I don't have to mess with the disposable ones any more. I like even better using the bulk adapter to connect to the #20 pound tank.

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Cracked down the side like these scuba tanks. https://www.scubaengineer.com/pictur...cylindersx.jpg

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Originally Posted by Kilosierra

Cracked down the side like these scuba tanks. https://www.scubaengineer.com/pictur...cylindersx.jpg

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Seriously? You are comparing low pressure thin wall tanks to high pressure scuba tanks. They are worlds apart on so many levels. Of course you will find fatigued scuba tanks if you work at a testing facility.
First you were talking about disposable propane tanks then changed to a totally different genre. I want to see a picture is a fatigue cracked propane tank. And I don't mean something from a house fire or been shot with tannerite under it either.