Are these powders ok?

Ok so I picked up 3 1LB cans of older powder at a gun show the other day from an older gentleman that seamed very very meticulous. anyways I asked how much for the powder? and he replied $7 for all 3(keep in mind that everything he was selling was ridiculously low priced, and of fairly high quality) so I immediately got $7 out and went on my way. after getting home I saw that the powders had 1lb 6oz, 1lb 11oz, and 14oz written on them. Ok thats a bit odd for 1lbs containers... but again I thought of how particular the guy was, maybe he had 8lbs kegs and this was all that was left. What I ended up getting was a cardboard can of Hercules 2400, another cardboard can of Hercules reloader 7, and finally a plastic container of alliant reloader 7 dated 1997. the biggest problem I noticed at first was the old reloader 7 had red, yellow, and green powder in it and the new one did not. After researching for awhile I found out apparently old lots had some color to them. other than that everything seems great all the powders seam to look like they should ie old RE7 VS new RE7 and 2400. they all smelled like they should. After really researching these powders and looking them over closely I think these are good to go and Id really like to use these seeing as they were next to free. I just wanted to see what others thought first.

Expect responses ranging from 'you're good to go' to 'it's plant food' and everything in between. Only you can decide what's and acceptable level of risk after careful review of all the facts.


Do you have a chrony?

Yes I do expect that, I was hoping for a majority vote though. And no I do not have a chrony although it's on my list of items to get.

do you have some of those same powders already?
do a side by side.
working up with the new powders, a chrono would speed up the process but your gonna have to work with what you have.

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Originally Posted by b money

Yes I do expect that, I was hoping for a majority vote though. And no I do not have a chrony although it's on my list of items to get.

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It's pretty easy for me to vote "go for it!" After all, I won't be there when you pull the trigger. :)

Like Run said.

Treat it like Bullseye and try it in a low grain pistol load at start level (or less if you've the experience and confidence.) to start with and then work up,,,,

Age doesn't mean much. I am using powder from the eighties. I've shot ammo from the thirties. Odor is a big indicator of good or bad. Hopefully, he labeled them correctly. That would be my concern.

When I got an older 8Lb can of B-Dot I did a comparison. Side by side like R5R stated, and I tried the old vs new in known loads. The older stuff had a bit of a kick when compared to the newer stuff I had on hand. Although I have a Chrony I chose not to compare speeds since what I used it for was 12ga slugs loads, and wads and Chronies don't like each other. Everything went just fine but I would stress caution, it's just best to play it on the safe side..

If you have an AR-15 in 5.56mm, you just hit the jackpot with the old Reloader 7. My load using 20.4 grains of it along with a 55 grain FMJ-BT Hornady bullet, is my most accurate load to date and it worked just as well in the 2 other rifles that I tried the load in. It's a darn shame we can't buy this powder any more. That Hercules 2400 was like finding gold, just find some cast boolit data that achieves the velocity that you desire in a 30 caliber rifle, and load a few rounds. I bet that the load will be accurate. Happy shooting and keep us updated on how well it all works for you.:razz:

Unfortunately I don't have any of these two powders. 2400 has been out of stock locally for years but I've been wanting to try it out and RE7 I've never used but it looks like it's a very good powder for a number of things. That's why I'd like to use these.

Wolfe's Propellant Profiles has photographs of the powder granules, with a grid scale behind them, and verbal descriptions. If you don't have actual samples, that is a good indicator. Some of the older loading manuals have photos as well.

Hullo, the RE-7 was first produced with the colored markers in the powder, when they changed the mixture they dropped the markers. I have used many pounds of this powder , old and older....works great in .223 and 22/250 in my experience while trying to reduce the sod poodle population in several western states. Also shot a ton of 2400 in .44 special & 44 mag... start low and see what you get, then I would shoot it up and feel good about it. I have bought partial cans of powder and have had no problems , if it smells funky , burn it. IMHO:cbpour:

Never have more than one can of powder on the bench when reloading.

Remember that suggestion? It was probably thought up by an old guy who realized he had just poured a powder measure of Bullseye back into a bottle (or cardboard can) of 2400.

"meticulous" sometimes isn't all that matters... unfortunately

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Originally Posted by b money

I just wanted to see what others thought first.

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I'd dump it all as a lesson learned. Who knows where that powder has been and what's been added to it.

IDK...at a gunshow from a man I didn't know, in odd containers and random weights of powder I wasn't sure was what it was supposed to be. Used car salesman and politicians can seem very nice and someone you would trust.

Your very trusting. Be careful

Call Alliant, they may help you make a wise decision. Do the containers have a lot number on them?

The newer lot of re7 has a lot number the other two don't have readable numbers.

Too many variables for me to consider using the powder for anything......especially considering it's only a $7.00 investment. Try this: Dump the powder, Take the cardboard cans to a gunshow. There are collectors that would probably give you $5.00 each. My $00.02.

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Originally Posted by 11B-101ABN

Too many variables for me to consider using the powder for anything......especially considering it's only a $7.00 investment. Try this: Dump the powder, Take the cardboard cans to a gunshow. There are collectors that would probably give you $5.00 each. My $00.02.

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If they are the original containers in good shape he could probably get $20 for the set. 300% profit beats a blown up gun in my book any day

To each their own but I never would have purchased them. Too many things could have gone wrong and considering what could happen it is just not worth the gamble to me. As a Bell Helmet add read back in the day.....if you have a 10 dollar head....buy a 10 dollar helmet. Sound advice to me.

Are you sure that what is in the container is the same as is what is on the label?

No I'm not sure, I would guess so but at the end of the day I don't want to guess anything with reloading. I think it'll be a $7 lesson and some fertilizer. Now I need to find some RE7 and 2400 haha

Why waste it? It has already been mentioned to treat it like Bullseye and see what happens. 3 grain in a 38 spl will tell you something. Bring a brass rod. You might stick a boolet.

Ok treat which powder like bullseye? The 2400 or RE7 and since I don't have a chrono what should I be looking for?

At $2-3 a lb, if the powder even looked like smokeless powder and without smelling/looking off or like mixed up powders, I would have bought 20 lbs for me and 20 lbs for each of my friends (with a unique address for powder storage).

There are many ways to work up the powders, and cast bullets in a centerfire bolt gun is one of the safest, IMO. From about 3 grains of fast pistol powder, all the way up to 13 grains, will get a cast bullet safely out of a .308. "The Load" is 13 grains of one of the fastest pistol powder around. As little as 10 grains of medium rifle powder will also probably get the bullet out of the bore, and if you stick a cast bullet it's pretty easy to remove. With a primed case and a carefully considered charge of known powder being one way. Of course, I guess you have to take a chance that the stuff isn't flash powder or blank powder or something. :)

I used cast 308 to work up a very mild plinking load for a powder I accidentally created that was approximately 3 parts H335 and one part HP38. That was a very accurate load, while the powder lasted! I mixed it up together, thoroughly, and dropped the charges by volume. Weight was pretty consistent, and the holes on short range targets were on top of each other. That load killed many soda cans.

One thing that I didn't see any other folks mention yet, aside from examining your Reloader 7's under a microscope (because I have one), I would also do some density testing. Set your powder measure to X, and weigh some throws from both cans. They should be spot on, if they're the same cannister grade powder.

I disagree with the revolver at 3 grains. You will definitely need to remove an obstruction if that stuff really is 2400, and you are at greater risk for locking up the action. If you want to test it that low, and you don't reload for rifle, I might load 4 grains in a locked breech 9mm with a 115-125 gr4 bullet and use a magnum primer. 2400 might get the bullet out, and any other faster pistol powder isn't likely to be an issue. If you have to remove a squib from a 9mm barrel, it's easier. You can go from the shortest direction, and you don't have to mess with the entire gun. You won't need a chrono to tell that the bullet barely dribbles out of the gun and doesn't cycle the action.

For the reloader 7, hmm. Me, I'd load 15 grains under a cast bullet in a 308, since I have that option, and work up from there.