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Looking for an easy to make lube for grease cookies...What can I mix with Crisco..
Something that is easy to roll out like cookie dough..Hate to keep rolling out my sticks of SPG lube..And something where I don't have to run all over the place to get the fixins.[smilie=1:[smilie=1:
I've been having good luck with 5 parts beeswax, 4 parts unsalted crisco, and 1 part canola oil. I also tossed in one stick of burt's bees lip balm to make it smell good. I didn't know if it would smell at all as time went by.
Put it in a warm oven (170) for a little bit to soften it up enough that it rolls out easily. If you don't it will mash up but will fairly often break into pieces rather than just spread like dough.
can parafene be used insted of bees wax?
catkiller45
Check out www.lasc.us/LubeIngredients.htm. I found 35 pages of lube. I make lube with candels & bearing greese. Are you using it for tumble lube or sizing lube. Or have I missed the meaning of "grease cookies" all together??
2 parts bees wax, 1 part canola or peanut oil (canola is better), one part PureNeatsfoot oil and a table spoon or so of lanolin. Works for me to 2200 fps with smokeless and is faultless with BP.
My experience and that of others has been that paraffin or any petroleum based material will not work well with BP. Bee's wax is the way to go. I mix Bee's wax, Crisco, Olive Oil and a small bit of lanolin to make mine. I had some red sealing wax off of a Maker's Mark bottle just cuz I like the pink color.
50%beeswax 50%petroleum jelly.
That recipe came from Ned Roberts Schuetzen rifle book.
Grease cookies are the mode of softening black powder fouling in a load that uses paper patched bullets. They're literally a little disk of lubricant loaded somewhere over the powder but under the bullet. Their relationship with other wads or cards varies from shooter to shooter. No lubricant is needed for the bullet but the fouling is kept soft so that multiple shots can be taken with minimal loss of accuracy due to fouling.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Noah Zark
This is all in a perfect world but that's the idea.:Fire:
Maybe just personal bias based on what little I've tried but it appears to me that lanolin, olive oil and beeswax in various proportions seems to handle most anything.
Replacing the olive oil with crisco would probably not hurt a thing and might make it better for all I know.
I haven't had a problem with oil migration that I know of (yet). But, I generally use formulations that are heavy on lanolin seeing as I bought a bucket from a chemical supply house on the southeast side of Houston.
One thing I have learned... when you make up a batch of mixed ingredients lube, pour it up in smaller containers rather than one big container. That way the smaller containers cool rapidly enough to avoid ingredients migration and inconsistency from top of the pail to the bottom.
For a grease cookie I have tried using a gasket (arc) punch on the spongy molded paper egg carton material and soaking the punch outs in melted lube. Worked for me. Felt would probably work better but the egg cartons were at hand and I needed card under the slug (killed two birds with one punch).
That receipt goes back farther then Ned Roberts Don.Quote:
Originally Posted by Don McDowell
I settled on this mix because it is good as any out there. I mix mine a little softer for the lube wad and I use a different type of wax.
Equal parts by volume of melted beeswax and coconut butter and Mobil 1 oil. I mix it 8 oz. each and while hot and blended, stir in one tablespoon of Mobil 1 oil.
Have found this works well for BP or smokeless and resists high ambient heat well without melting or separating.
I get the Lou Ana Coco-Pop coconut butter bars at local Smart and Final store, but it and other brands should be available at other places.
You really have to get some beeswax, IMHO.
I use 45% Beeswax, 45% Crisco, 5% lanolin, and 5% carnuba wax.
There was a long discussion about paraffin, and most feel it works O.K. with black. I've never tried it. I don't know how well it mixes with lard and other components.
It seems to me that rolling out your SPG is the "easiest" thing to do. Also the most expensive.
Half and half beeswax and crisco will be the next easiest.
Throw in a couple packs of Levi Garrett chewing tebacky and ya kin lic ya fangers when ya works wif it!!:redneck::holysheep[smilie=f:
Now there is a man who knows what he is talking about....I am up for that....Thanks for the idea...:drinks::drinks:Quote:
Originally Posted by RMulhern
Here is a real easy method, Call Bullshop get some of his NASA Lube, or Call Gentleman Jim Terry and get some White Lighting Lube. Of the decent priced Lubes BullShops NASA is second only to White Lighting Lube, I have run em all tested em all in the Cannon called a 45-2 7/8ths Sharps and a 38-50.
As I said down to 22% humidity Bullshops works as good if not better then any other lube one can buy.
Kurt aka Leadpot's Ozerkerrite lube is almost the same as White Lighting Lube. I do not think Kurt's lube can be easily had though.
White Lighting has not failed me down to 16% humidity, Any other will fail around 24-26% Bullshops goes the bit further.
This of course is all relitive to where you live and shoot.
At Phoenix and Raton, I wipe the 38-50 due to Asthma serrious issues no air to blow and shoot both in a rapid fire match like Silhouette.
Long Range: I paper patch and do not have to worry about Lube, Wipe.
KW
The Lunger
Founder-President H'RASS
Historical Rifle Accuracy Seeking Shooters
If you shoot a lot make your lube but keep it simple.
What I mean by "shoot a lot" is 3-4 cases of powder a year especially if you patch your bullets.
Less then a case a year take Kenny's advice buy your lube. You will be farther ahead.
Once you start to make your own lube you get to be a lubeahawlic and you will spend a lot of money on voodoo blends of exotic oils.
Making lube is just like casting bullets. Maybe this one works better and you end up having a drawer full of moulds or a 5 gallon bucket full of lube of tried recipes.
And when you take that bucket full of different voodoo mixes and melt them down in a 5 gallon stock pot and doing a Witches chant while stirring the brew you still wont have a lube that dont work as good as the simple mix.
All good advice...will take it...Makes more sense than making it..That why I have been buying the PP bullets instead of cast any right now...
I've had good luck with NASA Lube but I'm not sure you can get it anymore. When this batch runs out I might have to go to White Lightning. Around here the humidity is typically high and I'm with Leadpot probably not worth messing with home-brews when I'm only shooting a case a year. Now when I retire, IF, I retire might be another case.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny Wasserburger
Bob
Before I bought a lubrisizer half Crisco and half beeswax worked fine for my cowboy action guns. And paraffin works fine for BP, unlike some other petroleum based waxes. Been using it for years and my barrels clean with 1-2 pulls of the boresnake.
The "cleaner" and "lighter" petrobased stuff has never given me any grief with my muzzlestuffers. Microwax, petrolatum, mineral oil is fine by me in my BP guns with real BP..... but I do not do the BPCR thing.
My conicals are lubed with a microwax/deer tallow mix and it performs better than anything that reeks of wintergreen or pine. My patches have seen many a flavor of "light" petros with no ill effects.
Take a clean steel plate and burn beeswax on it, do the same with vaseline or mineral oil......look at what remains......it will shock you.
The no petro thing is pure marketing BS just like the "cleaner burning" BP substitutes are. I would not reccommend heavy auto grease....but then again ya just never know.:groner:
. Yes, paraffin is derived from crude oil but it is an a mixture of hydrocarbons chiefly of the alkane series.Quote:
My experience and that of others has been that paraffin or any petroleum based material will not work well with BP
Alkanes (also known as paraffins or saturated hydrocarbons) are chemical compounds that consist only of hydrogen and carbon atoms and are bonded exclusively by single bonds
The simplest possible alkane (the parent molecule) is methane, CH4 - a single bond!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkane
My current lube is: mutton tallow - paraffin - beeswax. When this batch is finished, the beeswax will be substituted with Ozokerite, 500grams sitting under the bench now. Why?
Edit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ozokerite
Beeswax burns and leaves a residue. Don't believe it? Lube your mold pins with it then try to remove the residue. Then with a clean mold, lube the pins with paraffin - no residue! Why no residue? Because it is an alkane with methane
The thing with OZ wax is, it tends to get hard at the muzzle (lube star) if you want to call it that when the barrel gets hot. But the good thing about it is for the blow tube user with just a breath it turns back to a soft grease.
Tallow has always my #1 go to lube and I still have a bunch of hard tallow that I use but it is not the best to mix with OZ wax, it will turn into brown flakes with repeated melt downs especially if you get it to hot.
The best I found to cut it with is straight peanut oil or coconut oil.
Refined mineral oil like Babe oil works great but it has a high smoke factor.
12 cups of melted OZ with 12 oz of petroleum jelly is my mix. I like the coco nut cent kind of petroleum jelly :-)
It's just pretty much 100% petroleum aint it :smile:
John.
For your .22 rim fire bullets.
This works very good with big GG bullets too.
Pan lube the bullets with the mix like I use and when the bullets are standing in the melted lube take a hot air gun like the Wen and blow the melted lube over the bullets so it splashes over the exposed bullet nose till the lead gets hot. this gives the bullet a coating like the .22 rim fire bullets have.
This will allow you to shoot more dirty and it will greatly cut down on leading in a bore that is prone to lead with a GG bullet.
When I lube my .22 bullets I dip them right in the hot melted lube with a pair of tweezers and stand them up right on a glass plate to let the lube drain down and when the lube sets a little I take the hot air gun and blow off all I can so a very thin coating of lube is on the .22 bullet and when it cools wipe off the base and seat them right on the black powder. You will be able to load and shoot dirty as many as you want.
Emmerts Lube. Great for BP and useful for smokeless cast boolit loads. Easy to make from common ingredients.
Alas, cartridges are a very different beast. Every time you load a new ball or bullet, you're essentially cleaning the fowling from the last round. Cartridges don't get to do that as a natural by product of how they're loaded.Quote:
Originally Posted by 357maximum
Tina posted a notice within the past few days in the Swap and Sell section that they are permanently closing down in July. Get your orders in between now and then.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz330
Ed
Lead pot - Thanks for your post. You know, for sure, that I've saved your wisdom offline for future reference when I do the OZ lube![smilie=s:
re: the black 22LR reloads, have found that Rooster Jacket Lube dipping the bullets has been working nicely too. Tested it at 50yds with a 50 shot string before I patched. Kept the bore lubed with minimal accuracy deficiency
And am anxiously waiting for a new rifle to arrive to shoot the old UMC match Mos mold remake bullets with. The Wurfflein 22LR 'Ladies Model' that Grant pictured in his Finale book, serial 5270. Supposedly the only Ladies Model ever photographed in any publication