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adjustment on my Leupold scope on
my azzkikin 45-70 w/420 NOE boolits
sure I can use lighter one but why ??:cbpour:
now "IF" I shim the scope do I
A.shim the entire scope both front and rear ?
B.shim the front only ?
and what would you think as far as shim height
.010 ??? [smilie=s:
anybody ?
Shim under the rear of the scope. 0.001" will get you 1" at 100 yds. Straight from Leupold tech person.
Use aluminum foil
Are you trying to bring it up to point of aim at 100 yards, or are you trying to be able to adjust the scope for longer ranges?
both ...
I would start with a .010 shim under the rear od the base. This should get your adjustment away from the limit and closer to center. Might even want .020 shim. Is your scope base one or two piece? If two piece this could put your scope tube in a bind unless you lap the rings. Burris Signature rings come with a nylon insert in them and you can purchase an insert kit which will allow you to achieve the effect of shimming by changing the inserts.
Larry
If your out of UP shim the rear, if your out of DOWN shim the front.
.01=10 MOA about 10" at 100 yards. If you have a one piece scope base put the shim near screws. If you have a two piece base it would be best to get Burris rings with different inserts. If you shim the rings you will bind the scope, which you dont want.
Or you can get a MOA adjusted base from someone like EGW for under $50. I am having a Warne base on my 300wsm recut with a 50 MOA angle to it because I am running out of adjustment at about 1200 yards with out a shim.
If you start shimming you are going to bend(crimp) the tube. Get a set of Burris Signiture Zee rings with the inserts. They have the inserts that give you 5,10,20 inches of adjustment. This is for the 1" tubes. I think the 30mm are 5,10 only.
You can also try EGW for a tapored base. I know they will also make one for you also. What kind of gun is this?
Marlin lever action with Leupold 1 piece base and Leupold rings
If you do shim the rear of the base, make sure you have enough thread engagement on the mounting screws.
I would do a epoxy bed and shim the whole mount. Mold release on the gun. Put the shim and epoxy all over the rear of the base. Put the front and rear screw in. Tighten front screw just enough to give a light snug. On the rear screw, tighten a little less. Make sure all screws have mold release on them.
This is how I used to do 10/22 Rugers before they made bases with MOA built in.
I had the same problem with my Marlin 1895. Ran out of elevation at 100 yards.
I switched to the Burris rings with the plastic inserts. They sell a set of offset inserts. By using those I was ale to easily get 20 thousandths of angle on the scope. Worked quite well.
I had shimmed the rear of the base but when I took the scope off to use a receiver sight it was toughto get my shim back in place now I wanted it.
When you run out of elevation, a canted scope mount is the solution.
Canted mounts come in 20 MOA, 30 MOA, and even 40 MOA elevation.
A canted mount is higher in the rear than in the front. In other words, the scope is pointed down, toward the barrel. The reticle is thus operating in the lower range of its elevation, leaving the commensurate (20, 30, or 40 moa) amount of elevation for use.
We see guys run out of elevation all the time at the 1000 yard range.
The other way to deal with this is to get a scope with a 30mm or 34mm tube. These have additional elevation built into the reticle. However, most long range shooter get a large tube scope AND put it on a canted mount. There is no downside to this practice and you have the elevation you need for the job when the time comes.
Short answer, raise the rear only.
If you don't have enough elevation adjustment to get zeroed at 100 yards, there is something wrong with your setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by white eagle
both ...Quote:
Originally Posted by waksupi
That may be a poorly designed mount ... or maybe you have it on backward (?).
CM
It is ALWAYS best to center the cross hairs in the scope FIRST, and then center the scope in the mounts (with inserts one way or another) on the target via bore sighting. This keeps everything centered as a system and therefore MINIMIZES distortion. Distortion or not, high powered scopes WILL cause cataracts in time, so minimize the time looking through them. Eye strain of anykind is a no-no, especially when targeted light is magnified. ... felix
... '?' '?' '?' ...Quote:
Originally Posted by felix
I use a square made from a coke can, it is uniform and easy to cut with scissors.
Then punch holes and place under the scope base.
Mike
Doesn't Brownells carry tapered scope shims to avoid stressing scope tube when doing such?
As a previous poster said, an easy fix for shims are aluminum cans. With a one piece base there is no chance of damaging the scope. Tapering the base is an option too,
if you are handy or know someone who is. But in the past when I've ended up with a rifle/mount/scope/load combination that is problematic I've used shims with great results. If you have a "bore sighter" you can use it to see how much any amount of shimming affects your point of aim. Absent that placing your rifle in a padded vice pointing at an ailing point will give you an idea of how much you've gained.
Good luck.
Matt
yes sir I am out of elevation :oops:Quote:
Originally Posted by montana_charlie
its called boolit weight
oh 325's and 350's go where I want then but all I can get
the 405's,420's and 44o's to do is hit rite on at 100 yds
to make full use of the pbr of the cartridge I need it high at 100 yd :cbpour: :bigsmyl2: