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I tried using "cup" type punches with my Star sizer, what a difference, it looks like it almost stretches the GC over the base of the boolit. Installed checks all look the same and flawless. I don't know if they are avail. or would work on Lee equip.
I been using a rubber mallet and gently taping the noes. I just order the NOE gas check installer and i am waiting for it to arrive.
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Then run through my LEE sizerQuote:
Originally Posted by Rcmaveric
Yup. No issue and the hammer works on all profiles
No, hammering on them will not leave them as perfect as the Star using "cupped" punches of the exact diameter as the boolit. There is a down side, you need a cupped punch and a flat punch for each caliber, if you make both plain base and GC boolits.
Hmmmm... I've ruined more softface hammers than deformed bullets:confused:
This post was meant for folks that use a Star to seat gas checks, and want to optimize gc seating, it was not meant for hammering on boolits. If you don't use or don't want to use a Star luber to perfectly seat Gc's, start your own thread on hammering gas checks onto boolits.
Did you honestly think people would only talk about seating gas checks w/ a Star? I don't attempt to seat them using a Star. I will use the NOE tool first if I'm going to use the Star. But in most cases the checks are going on rifle bullets which I size on a LAM1. Volume doesn't warrant setting up the Star.Quote:
Originally Posted by MT Chambers
To the question on Lee equipment-- I've never seen anything on using cupped punches to seat gas checks with Lee, but I use lee sizers to seat all my gas checks and have never seen any problem with getting them seated correctly.
Maybe change the title then...hammering is best :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MT Chambers
gonna try to get this thread back on track.Quote:
Originally Posted by MT Chambers
I'd like more details, is the "cup" concave? or convex?
Photo's would be nice, if you are able to post photos.
one more question, I seat a lot of GCs, and when a GC seats easily with finger pressure, there is rarely a issue needing extra or different equipment, but when a GC shank is a wee bit large and check seating is difficult, I have found that expanding them helps (NOE makes a tool for that), and there are others issues, too loose and such... anyway, the question is, does this cupped punch solve any specific problem?
The punches' "cups" are concave and push on only the outer edge of the gc, I got them with a Star "highboy" I bought and at first thought that they were top punches!
What's a Star "highboy" ?
I've never heard of that one.
I bought it used, it is from San Diego, and in like-new condition, the only diff. that I see is the lube tube/tower is more than twice as high as std. and can hold more than double the lube, but maybe someone could alter their Star the same way. The std. Star air cyl. will only act on 1 lube stick however.
I made an aluminum clamshell that holds a GC and a bullet in perfect alignment. if I tap the nose of the bullet I get a PERFECT full seat. Then crimp using the Lee push through sizer.
If you hit the bullet directly you will deform the nose. so you can use a punch held onto the meplat:
https://img0.etsystatic.com/109/1/10...72256_rac4.jpg
This will prevent the meplat from getting deformed, unless your punch has markings on the face. If the punch has markings, then all your bullets will get the same marking imprinted into the meplat.
wait, I didn't attach THAT punch picture into this thread, did I? Oh, shoot, I did.
:)
(well, the thread title did say "best"...)
OK, I know that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by MT Chambers
I saw one on eBay selling for big bucks once.
Honestly, the best method for seating gas checks is the way John Barlow intended... with the Ideal No.1 sizing and lubricating press, or one of its descendants or derivations. At least, that's the method that has worked the best for me for the last 40 years.
Just my 2 cents.
I snagged some little Don Eagan made cups that fit inside the nut atop my Lyman 450. They allow you to put some pressure on the bullet making sure the check is seated squarely before starting sizing. One of his tapered dies for the 30G bullet was in the lot and there was also a die that squares up a bullet base. The latter comes in handy for a B&M 311169 I have that someone tried to enlarge the base on. Don's die puts them right back into good shape. That's second from the left top row.
Verrry interesting MT -- I'm with you in thinking the Star is the nicest way to go for seating any gas check that fits less than perfectly.
I see that Lathesmith makes the punches in either flat or dished, with the dished being touted for use with gas checks. I have been using the flat punches for many years and thought life was good, but I may have to try a dished punch for the next gas check design I get a sizer for just to see if it can get even more perfect. Or I guess I could just order an extra "dished" style punch for something. Anyway, thanks for the tip!
Yes thank you for the information i saw the other day that Chris is making those dished punches and was thinking that would be a good idea for a gas check. I have been thinking about having him make me one along with another die to size these 243-095-sp's in I have the die and punch for the Lam II but think it would be easier in the star, especially for the volume i have been shooting of those.
I bought that mold and sizer die/top punch years ago and havent really used it much until here lately, I traded into a 6mm AI and it shoots them really well with the fireforming loads.
I tried tapping checks on with a mallet before running them through the sizing die when I started out. In my admittedly limited experience it was tedious and inconsistent. Now I just hold the check under the bullet base as I run it into the NOE sizing die, letting go when the bullet first touches the die. The check has enough play between the sizing rod and the bullet base to line itself up properly and then the force of sizing the bullet seats the check before it enters the die.
Yes ewlyon, that is the same way the Star is used, the only difference being that the Star is pushing them down instead of up so you set the check on top of the bullet (I like to poke the bullet down just below the top of the size die before placing the check). And then you can go ahead and lube 'em with the same stroke.
Run thru an upside down Lee sizing die with a 1/2 ton arbor press fron Harbor Freight. The Lee die sets on top of a fat big washer on the shelf of the arbor press. The cast bullets have been previously been powder coated. The powder coat and the gas check results in zero lead and a very clean barrel after a lot of rounds being fired in the gun.
Upside down Lee press? With cupped punches? Just use the Star!!Quote:
Originally Posted by bstone5