Ok,, we have lot's of talented hands and minds here and I am after ideas for stuff that maybe you think someone should make.
[smilie=s:
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Ok,, we have lot's of talented hands and minds here and I am after ideas for stuff that maybe you think someone should make.
[smilie=s:
A drill holder to fit a Hornady case deburr tool, many out there for Forster/Sinclair/RCBS/Lymans...
I am still finding out what I need and what is not available (which I have to fabricate). The biggest lack of something that I have seen so far is money. So, I wish somebody made..................... a money mold to cast money from WWs.
A real nice reloading bench in kit form, just for reloaders with add on capability, not one of those cheap benches in a box.
I think that would be nice but they would be so expensive that not many would be purchased. Things with real wood that are built well are few and far between and if you do find them they are expensive. That is why many build there own from plans or wing it lol.
But if one wishes to be honest even if the kit did seem expensive when one takes into account there time and the cost of the wood which is not cheap now by the way to build there own bench they would save money on a good kit bench.
I got real lucky. As I was by my local SEARS store and they had a couple of Wood wood working tables that they were closing out. And picked one up for 100.00 out the door. And then put a solid core Door on top that is 84 by 32. Works great. :)
I ran across these that look pretty nice. Not affiliated in any way.
http://www.americanworkbench.com/Reloadbenches.html
...good casting ladles that didn't cost an arm and leg...
45nut, I can't think of anything I have'nt already made but I am sure going to watch this thread.
Larry
Here it is. Sorry for the Mess as I have just set it up the last few days.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...L/IMAG0045.jpg
Left hand spout type cast iron ladle.
.............Holy cats! I haven't seen that much available benchtop since I don't remember when :-) You could set 3-4 DOZEN coffee cups down on that. And look at THAT, there is actually some FLOOR in your picture! Just wait though, you WILL eventually get enough stuff sitting around that you'll finally generate that inter-dimensional warp field that exists down at the bottom of most well used work-reloading benches.
I swear there are some that if a bowling ball rolled off the top you'd hear it hit the floor, but that would be the end of it. You wouldn't find it again on a bet. If you have such and you're attuned, while standing there you can feel it sucking at the toes of your PF Flyers.
...............Buckshot
Buckshot well my Garage looks like a Tornado Twister hit it lol. Just too much stuff lol. And have too many hobbies lol. But I am going to give up a couple lol. Ok more than a couple lol. As I like to load and play with stuff that goes BANG lol. But my other hobbie I will keep as long as I am able as I do like to build stuff. So my other project is a 73 Corvette that I am rebuilding the whole driveline along with upgrades. But it is slow as money is tite. So till I can purchase more parts I am doing some shooting and reloading.
I swear there is not one part on a Corvette under $100.oo lol. Or sure seems that way lol.
Hey Skeeter, Thanks for running across my site! Over the past to years our reload benches have been evolving. We have been building these benches for technical schools and many other folks. We recently received an order from Richard Gallagher who is the owner of Galco leather. If anyone has any suggestion I'd love to hear them. We are currently taking our Gardeners Bench and turning it into a reload bench as well! Stay tuned, in a few weeks we'll have that one online.
Again, Thanks
John
A custom fit splash guard for my old "drip-o-matic" bottom pour! [smilie=l: [smilie=f:
I would shoot my auto's more if someone made a good functional brass catcher that would attach, say to the bottom of a magazine, or clip to the forearm. I truly hate picking up brass, especially at a public range with everyone stepping on them and getting them mixed up. I like MY brass back cause I know their history.
That's a good idea. How about a short piece of pipe, maybe 2" diameter, maybe 1" or so long? Stand it on end under the spout, there should be enough room for the mold to clear it, and the drips should all stay inside the pipe. My drip-o-matic leaves little teardrops of lead everywhere from the drip splashes. Gonna have to try this next time, thanks for the idea.
Here's something I saw some reloaders doing to help ID their brass (commercial or reloads)...
While still in a packaging tray, give the backsides a light wipe (removes excess lube) and run a Sharpie marker (multiple folks shooting the same caliper/headstamp use different colors) down the centers across the headstamps. The mark the won't affect anything and will allow you to easily ID your brass from rest.
I am with caver dave on the sharpe. All my brass is marked with a red line down the center. A few of the guys at the range started marking their brass with black marks after they saw me picking up brass and saying no, no, no, mine, no. Thats when they undersud the marks.
Hey Dave, I'm already marking the brass, but being lazy I was looking to eliminate the 'hunt' so as to have more quality time at the range. I have a plastic catcher for my 1911 made by E & L Mfg. Riddle Or. (541) 874-2137 that works well, but only fits 1911's without the ambidextrous safety, and it's the only one that fits a handgun, (1911's only). The problem with it is that there is just a very small gap between the catcher and the slide to sight through.:roll:
For the "snail" section, you can use a piece of large pipe (12" or more, bigger is better) and split it in half lengthwise, so you have two C shaped pieces. Looking at them from the end, with the split oriented vertically, move the front piece down 2-3", and weld the end plates on to hold them in that position. That leaves a gap on top and bottom; Weld a couple plates of steel to the top gap, in a wedge or funnel shape, to shoot into. The bullet will enter the pipe, spin around a few times, and drop out the gap at the bottom. Look at the website snailtraps.com, they make something like this, but in large scale for shooting ranges.
The "affordable" part just depends on the steel cost. I tried to buy some steel remnants to make one of these last year, the steel yard wanted $180 for a 10" long chunk of 12" pipe, and 4x2 feet of 5/16" plate! These were remnants that were already cut and headed for the scrap pile! I said no thanks and left, haven't been back since.
I'd like to know if somebody made die-cut boxes for .30 M1 like the original 50 round gvmt boxes.
I wish the press manufacturers would include a bolt boss in the casting base that an adjustable stanchon could be bolted to, that reached the floor to transfer the downward force to the floor instead of fatiguing the edge of the workbench.
wish someone would make an adapter so i could use rcbs/lyman sizers in my stars.
If I recall correctly, Ken did that with duct tape...maybe it was some one else.
Actually I used a spring, found one that was just thick enough to take up the difference and then wound it around the die.
I have seen a lot of ideas posted about how to keep the handle on your Star from falling down at the wrong time and giving you a lump on your head....but does someone sell a kit?
If not, I am going to start.
A Cherry 2000 to do my case cleaning.
a handheld cutting tool with precision adjustable cutting blades to remove bb or gc shanks from molds, something simple enough for even me to use. thinking it could be set up like a micrometer that as you dial it up, the blades reach out just a tad more each time.
Sorta like a ridge reamer for engines,Ken?
maybe it is already out there, but some adjustable way to chamfer and debur case mouths both at one time.
Bonus points if it fits an RCBS case prep center or Wilson trimmer.
Here you go: Lyman Case Care Kit
More pics (click on the smaller ones for a full size pic)
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...t/IMG_0854.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...h_IMG_0856.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/i...h_IMG_0857.jpg
The attachment that looks like a cone has an adjustable "arm" that does the debur function, and obviously, the cone does the chamfer.
I have one and it works pretty well, but you do have to adjust it for each caliber, but it's just a matter of the one set screw.
Chris
A couple of 1" pipes with pipe threads on each end. Add mounting flanges on each (don't know if that's the proper name) end of the pipes such that the overall length fits snuggly between the bottom of your bench & the floor. Secure the flanges to the bottom of the bench & the floor directly under your press. You could probably accomplish the same thing with a 4x4 (or two) with "L" brackets on each end. Either way, no more bench fatiguing.
Netherwolf