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I have a Rolling block chambered in 8x58RD. Making Ammo for it is a bit of a pain. I also have a 45 cal green mtn blank setting around.
Thinking about rebarreling this old roller to 45 colt.
Does anyone see any problems with this that I’ve not thought of?
Depends on which 45 barrel you have, some may be too small in diameter. The extractor will most likely need some work.
Hmm, could be. I’ll dig the barrel out tomorrow and see how big it is.
45 Colt is not a good case for a single shot.....the case has virtually no rim-a case with a big rim like a 45/70 would be a lot better
Well my blank is 1”. Borderline big enough. Extractor would probably need some work. Since my blank is only 20” long I would need to build a different forearm. Probably only way to match the buttstock is to replace it also.
Starting to rethink this project. I have one of the 1867 models that I’ve rebarreled to 40-65 Win. It works great.
As long as I’m alive Ammo for this gun is not a problem. None of my kids/ grandkids are very interested in this sort of stuff at the time being. I was just looking at ease of use for future owners.
Any ideas for better conversions, 45-70, 40-65 come to mind. 38-55 with some extractor work. Suggestions?
There's no reason a single shot in .45 colt would be any different than a levergun in .45 Colt. If it can work well in a levergun, it should work even better in a single shot where the extractor only pulls the case out partially and the shooter does the rest.Quote:
Originally Posted by john.k
The biggest issue would be the barrel diameter, and whether it will be large enough to thread for a Rolling Block action. It could be done by turning the shank on the barrel, and making a thread adapter to screw on the barrel, and turning that to fit the Rolling Block. Just a question of how much work you want to pay for to make it a .45 Colt? But having the barrel already will save a major amount of the cost.
But at 20" I personally think the proportions will look stubby, and I wouldn't do it. Aesthetically it wont be very appealing.
I agree. My original plan for this barrel was a stub job on a 410 shotgun. Probably going to stay with that plan and look for a suitable blank for the rolling block.
GMB has a 38-40 blank in stock. 25” x 1.06. Might not need extractor work. Does anyone know the barrel thread dimensions on these rifles?
The barrel thread should be the same as a Remington #1 action, as the first 30,000 were supplied by Rem. I think they were .980 x 8 TPI acme, but thats from memory. I had a barrel stub, but have not seen it lately.
M1867 Swedes have flat threads I think.
How about 44-40? Someone here did a stub rifle build awhile back.
The 45 Colt works great in the Contenders and Encore and a host of other single shot rifles like the 45 Colt baby sharps, Rossi break action and various Low Wall and High Wall rifles.Quote:
Originally Posted by john.k
I was wrong, looked it up on Wikopedia, and they said .975 x 12 square thread.
I respectfully disagree on ease of reloading. Take 8x56r Hungarian brass. Partial size neck enough to hold 8mm cast boolit. Seat boolit out, but enough to be held in neck. Shoot...I use 2400. Superb accuracy, fireforms brass, and only partial neck sizing is needed for the next reload. I’m up to 10 reloads per case with no lost brass and no trimming ever. I use the Lee 240 gr Max mold. When firing that first shot, it hits same as when using formed brass. No rim altering needed. My load doesn’t always fully fireform, but it causes no problems.
The 8x56mm Hungarian brass.
https://i.postimg.cc/0NcZvP3K/20180309_131945.jpg
The Lee Maximum boolit.
https://i.postimg.cc/yxFnzkNC/20180314_045419.jpg
The cartridge.
https://i.postimg.cc/NjwDg0Yp/20180401_052627.jpg
I had Lee make up a custom FCD just in case I needed to crimp.
Yeah, I probably just need to buy the dies and brass. I file off the belt on 338 win mag cases. Drive them into a sizing die I made. Cut to length and fire form. Another die I made just sizes the neck and another seats the boolit.
Once a case is made they seem to last good. But very time consuming with a high failure rate.
I expect the 8 X 58RD has been thoroughly covered on this board. Briefly, I've used 45-70 brass but came to prefer 45-90. Near perfect cases. I bought proper dies from CH-4D. Load is a 200 gr. Accurate bullet over IMR-4227. It's a hoot!!!
Several years back I got tired of recoil so I made my roller in 38-55 with a 34" barrel. Working on one now in 22 short.
Hi Wolfer,
how did you pulled out the safety screw placed on left side (of the rolling block frame/breech block) its without any notch???
Mira
I would think twice modifying a classic gun. All that I see for sale are usually much lower priced than originals. I like old guns, especially if you can still shoot them.
sometimes are such corroded that isnt possible...
Swedish 1889 barrel mfg 1891.
https://images46.fotki.com/v242/phot...SCF9919-vi.jpg
Swedish 1867 barrel mfg 1874.
https://images14.fotki.com/v1676/pho...SCF9924-vi.jpg
very strange thread, its 1" - 20 UNEF???
Please how did you demount/disassemble barrel from a breech block, and still dont know how to remove the secure pin which is placed on a left side at the breech block?
Thank you.
I don't know what pin you are talking about.Quote:
Originally Posted by mira
A receiver wrench and a milling vise is how I took it apart.
https://images46.fotki.com/v101/phot...F9817rb-vi.jpg
Dutch
look at the pocture https://www.gunboards.com/threads/re...e-1867.183925/, the picture is from Aug 15, 2010, - there is a breech block and the screw (is on the top of left side), and upgraded 89 breech block has insteed this screw a pin, it is almost invisible because it is grinded together with the surface of breech block.
So my question is what is the screw at old breech block(and also what is the pin at the 89 breech block).
Thank you for the picture.
Mira
Sorry, I cannot identify your problem and I'm not going to take any more time to figure it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by mira
Dutch
I suggest you download De Haas book (its free now,I think) and do some research ......many RBs had a lever fitted to the block to keep the firing pin retracted/free .....In any case ,there is no need to remove anything from the block unless there is a breakage ........Before you try to unscrew the barrel ,be absolutely certain there is no extractor parts remaining in place that will jam every thing up.
Mira, a screw was used to secure the sliding cartridge extractor on the old 1867 model. When converted to the 8x58R model 89, the screw hole was plugged and the screw head was ground flush with the surface of the action. The updated 89 action used a rotating extractor, which required a new screw located under the forward breech block pin. I have never removed the barrel from a model 89, but I don't believe the ground off screw, or pin needs to be removed to unscrew the barrel.
Bingo, thank you Gewehr-Guy, it is it what I ment.
So nobody knows if I must this plug screw out (pull out) before I start to dismantle breech block and the barrel (from Swedish RB 89)?
If your receiver still has a sliding extractor it must be removedQuote:
Originally Posted by mira
If it has the later rotary “crescent” style extractor there is no screw - it was plugged.
You are correct
so the barrel is already pulled out from the breech block and the breech block will be reinforced (very sensible by laser welding) in the near future.
I measured also the barrel bore and it has 7,95-7,96/8,21-8,22, so worn ca.0,05-0,06mm (orig. cal. is .323 so 7,90/8,22).
So my question what the condition is the barrel, (is 0,05mm a lot of wear)?