Recoil Pad " 101"

Thought you guys might like to see how I fit a recoil pad. This is a Pach Decelerator pad fitted to a synthetic stocked Rem. Model 700 .

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/001-16.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/003-16.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/004-15.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/005-9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/007-9.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/haysb/009-9.jpg

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Ben,

Thank you for posting this. I have 3 old pawnshop guns with bare ends. Maybe it's time to fix them.

Thanks Ben for this, great pictures and captions.

What are you referring to when you mention grind off the excess new pad?

a belt sander/disc sander?
do you refer to a bench grinder with some sort of non-grit stone?


thanks,

from australia

jvg5576

If I can do it, so can you. Go slow and don't get in a hurry.
You might be impressed with the outcome.

___________________________________

sthwestvictoria :

This is what I use ( Except mine is a Delta ) , works nicely :

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...7661802P?mv=rr

Thanks,
Ben

10 years ago I was grinding to fit with a belt sander and using .005" thick masking tape as the safety margin to keep from sanding the stock.

Now I have 10 rifles with the largest grind to fit Limbsaver, but I do not grind it. I leave it large for more area.

I build 2 or 3 rifles a year, and in 2012 they will all have large Limbsaver grind to fit pads that I do not grind.

http://www.triadtactical.com/images/P/53_Large-02.jpg
Sometimes the reveal is covered with a EAGLE SHOOTER'S STOCK PACK (RIGHT-HANDED), WOODLAND CAMO 350002

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg
Sometimes with the cheaper and easier to get Allen buttstock pouch.

And sometimes not at all. There is a guy who shoots a lot of elephants and give me grief about it. I say form follows function and fashion will follow later.

wow! Looks great. But... what grit size did you use. And how do you grind?/ Around and around the pad, watching angles and curves?? Or "across" the edge off the pad, watching angles and curves???

And I understand the best part; "TAKE IT SLOW!!" Thanks ..... Lee:bigsmyl2:

Lee

I use a 120 grit, 1 " X 30 " sanding belt.
I grind in the same " plane " that the grain in the stock is running.

Thank you, sir, for the prompt reply ..... Lee

Hey Ben,
I do the same procedure but add this one minor point. After I scribe the line, I run a piece of white chalk over the scribed line. The knife point mark fills with white chalk and is very easy to see. These old eyes can use all the help they can get.

725

Looks like " An Old Dog " here on this end of things just learned a new trick.

I'd have never thought of that one. Black pad with the white line ....easy to see ! !
I like that idea !

Thanks,
Ben

Ben,
This is why I love this site. So much info freely traded. If I have given YOU useful info, whoo-hoo, makes my day.
725

I have ground pads on and off the stocks. I prefer the off stock method.
White chalk helps alot in seeing the scribe lines.
Metal layout fluid helps on metal pads like the Graco base pads for Trap/Skeet guns.
I have tried and liked the adjustable grinding adapters sold by Graco and other companies.
Loosen 1 screw change angles and grind away.
Using Pach pads their metal guides set helps in picking out correct size pads wihout grinding into the metal support in the pads.
Les.

Good info. you're passing on there Les.
Thanks for sharing.

Ben

Bought the B Square pad jig a few years ago to do a couple pads for myself. It has been paid for long ago doing pads for guys at the clays fields and at my club. Simply screw the pad to the gun, scribe the line, put the pad on the jig base up and grind to the line. You tilt the jig to get the toe angle on the pad. The whole job take about 45 minutes and there is no danger to the stock. I too use chalk to help see the line.

I too use the brownell's jig with my home made disk sander and with practce you can fit a pad in shot order. I dust my scribed line with chalk and wipe it off so I can see the line better.

Something I've always done with recoil pads is grind them to 95% of a fit, then I stop for an hour. I put the pad in my freezer at that time. This makes the rubber harder and easier to sand which helps make a better finish IMHO.

Thanks Ben for the timely information and the gentle nudge that "you can do this". Good Job.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by smoked turkey

Thanks Ben for the timely information and the gentle nudge that "you can do this". Good Job.

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You're very welcome. Share your results with all of us.

Ben

I too use the jig, and it is very easy to get a perfect result. I have done 5-6 now and it gets easier everytime I do it.

I set my grinder table at about 2 degrees so as to give a flared angle to the pad. This coincides with the angle on the sides of the stock so it does not transition to a different angle and yeilds a buttstock that is a little larger than normal and thus spreads recoil out over a larger surface area.

Randy

Ben, I can't tell you how much I enjoy your posts! I learn something new every time I read your work here!

You are very generous with your words....THANKS !

Ben

Nice thread, good work, thanks for sharing, i like to add a silver/steel plate inbetween the stock end and new recoil pad

I've been looking at the different jigs available for this. Is everyone using a jig or is anyone freehanding?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by poisonivie

I've been looking at the different jigs available for this. Is everyone using a jig or is anyone freehanding?

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I do them "free hand" but with various stops, cradles, supports and the like, I don't just belly up to the sander.

Bren R.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Clark

10 years ago I was grinding to fit with a belt sander and using .005" thick masking tape as the safety margin to keep from sanding the stock.

Now I have 10 rifles with the largest grind to fit Limbsaver, but I do not grind it. I leave it large for more area.

I build 2 or 3 rifles a year, and in 2012 they will all have large Limbsaver grind to fit pads that I do not grind.

http://www.triadtactical.com/images/P/53_Large-02.jpg
Sometimes the reveal is covered with a EAGLE SHOOTER'S STOCK PACK (RIGHT-HANDED), WOODLAND CAMO 350002

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg
Sometimes with the cheaper and easier to get Allen buttstock pouch.

And sometimes not at all. There is a guy who shoots a lot of elephants and give me grief about it. I say form follows function and fashion will follow later.

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I have one REALLY nasty recoiling rifle I did that way. As you said form follows function.

All the rest are made to fit the stock.

Great tutorial Ben!

I have ground a few recoil pads for Encore stocks using a 4" belt sander, starting with 80 grit sand paper, then 120 grit. I scribe a line as previously mentioned. When it is ground to the scribe line, I put it in the freezer for a few hours, take it out and spray it with silcone and then hand sand it with real fine sand paper.

Thanx for the tips here. I've done a few with masking tape and a belt sander. Not perfect by far, this will surely help me in the future.


Thanx

Good info. Thanks for sharing.

I like to use the oscillating belt sander by Ridgid. This is a combination belt and spindle sander, and both of them oscillate, which is nice to keep the belt cleaner as you work on grinding down the pads. I make sure I have enough light (I'll have to try the idea of chalking the scribe line), and going slow as I grind. I was installing a gel type recoil pads on the kids trap guns when I was coaching scholastic trap kids, because it helped a the ones who were very sensitive to recoil.

Nice job, thanks for the post

For a cheap light recoil pad I glue a piece of a shower shoe sole to the butt. Works ok and comes in colors.

I just finished one on an 1100. I grind by hand to the line because I will not pay for the jig when I do so few. I have to finish grind on the stock.
Wood must be cut from the stock to keep pull length. I worked out a way with a table saw sled and a fine tooth blade to cut perfectly flat and clean. Nothing better then a table saw.
I made a jig to keep the base at right angles to the blade.Attachment 155832
It can be adjusted to raise and lower the front.

I have done a few for my own rifle builds. The most trouble I have is getting the toe angle on the pad right.Robert

I use a 2"x28" vertical belt sander, no jig, and usually grind with the pad on. I start with a couple of layers of blue tape, then a couple layers of green tape, then white masking tape. 120 grit through the white tape, then 180 through the green tape, then 220 to the last layer of blue tape. then finish with 300 grit. I also use WD40 as a lubricant while grinding; a bit messy, but a smoother job overall. Because of a long LOP,(14 3/4") usually I don't need to shorten the stock. Saves me a bit of work...biggest problem is finding belts to fit. Anyone know where to buy belt adhesive and a cutter, for making belts?

Reo

I can't even find disk adhesive anymore. I have disks with none on them and can't find disks to fit either. I used to get Sears adhesive but the stores don't know what I am talking about. It was a white glue that dried sticky.
What do you guys use?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 44man

I can't even find disk adhesive anymore. I have disks with none on them and can't find disks to fit either. I used to get Sears adhesive but the stores don't know what I am talking about. It was a white glue that dried sticky.
What do you guys use?

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You might try one of the general purpose Scotch spray glues. I find Scotch 77 to be too permanent for sanding discs so would go for the craft grade stuff.

I made a copy of the Brownell's jig for about $5.00 and hung it on a fishing swivel, based on their published dimensions. I imagine it works as well as the high priced version. I started with a 1" bench belt sander but recently upgraded to a 3" model. I found lots of finer grit belts on Amazon.

David

I use a Grizzly 10" disk/belt sander, one of my wood working tools. I have to leave the belt off unless I need it, seems to run off no matter how I adjust it. It is hard to see the edge of the disk with the hood around it.
I did better with a disk on my radial saw.
I have such a good table saw with the Ridged I put the radial saw in the barn, hardly use it except for rough stuff, not the best for furniture. I actually hate the thing.
I made every jig for the table saw so I can make anything. Cutting the back of a stock is easy now.
No splinters and a perfect, flat cut.
Still grinding rubber is a chore and nothing done by hand works.

I have a whole box full of those Limbsaver pads that went bad, rubber turned to goo, then saw them at the shot show they told me to return them, which I did. The replacements promptly turned to goo also. My question to you Ben, has the Limbsaver bunch finally got their rubber formula straightened out? I have been buying Packmeyers but I do like the Limbsavers when they act right.

I use an osculating, horizontal belt sander with a jig and cut the pad on the stock then if necessary I refinish the area as necessary. It is a little slower but gives a perfect, pad to wood fit every time.

I wonder if the buffing wheel glue would work for a belt glue.
Ed

For disks, use 3m 77 spray adhesive. If you need to take it off the pad, heat it up and it'll come off.
What I do is spray, stick, sand and while everything is warm from sanding, remove.