Does anyone know where or who makes paper patching templates. I also see some of your guys photos of paper patched bullets and it looks like they were printed out on a computer.
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Does anyone know where or who makes paper patching templates. I also see some of your guys photos of paper patched bullets and it looks like they were printed out on a computer.
That would be me. Mine are shaped to match my tapered boolits. Others also print theirs but I seem to have done most of the posting of photos of them. Cutting them out with scissors is somewhat painful. One day I'll build a shaped punch for the job. I design the patch profile on CAD using measurements of the boolit to be patched. That works for dry patching but wet patching has to take into account wet expansion which is a correction that gets done after the designing.
How did you come up with your measurements? Also may I ask what calibers you load for?
Cut a strip of paper 1" wide.
Take a casting and roll the paper around it twice. Where the ends meet, that is where you make your angle.
I use venetian blind pieces. Our cats like to go in the windows and on each window several pieces of blind fall loose. The blinds are vinyl.
Cut one end of the blind piece in a 45* angle.
Take the rolled paper on the casting, and then cut 45* angles opposite each other. This will give you an over lap when wet.
Take the rolled paper, and lay it on the venetian blind piece. This will give you both ends. Cut the other end.
You now have a template.
Now, to make it fit.
Take a patch, soak it, and roll it on the casting. I use a cigarette roller. You can see how much further the paper goes. Trim the blind piece the amount to make the patch fit.
Soak another one, trimmed to the length of the cut blind piece. Soak it, wrap it, and see where the patch lines up.
Now, I wrap .30s and .303 Brits. I size my prime castings to .308, then wrap twice with lined notebook paper, or computer printer paper. When dry, these I size to .309. My .303, I size to .314. A lot of Enfields need .317, but the patch goes to that size, unsized.
You will have to find your size, but that is how I do it.
Works well for me.
I will have to try this. I read in the paper jacket about setting up a paper cutter to cut patches. I know where I can get one and look forward to trying it.
At the moment I load for 303 Brits. Each one has its own boolit and patch. I hold the casting in a fold of the intended paper then measure the diameter at the front and again at the base then the distance between those points. I then calculate the segment length at those two points then use CAD to work out the patch profile. I hope I didn't make it sound too simple - it's not so simple for me! But once I got it worked out it works a treat - for dry wrapping. For wet wrapping, I use the same method then wrap wet. I measure the overlap top and bottom then adjust the profile. The tail or skirt in my case is pretty easy. I just do an offset with CAD.
Here you can see the curve. It's essentially two wraps of a truncated cone. The lines assist with alignment.
http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/o.../PIGGUN011.jpg
This one as you can see is for my pig gun and it uses my XIX mold. As said before, it's a pain cutting out these things so volumes are low. (It's not like I shoot many pigs anyway. Like none so far).
I cut mine on a paper cutter. Gave up on the templates. Lost too many. Now I record the length need for each bullet, and set a dial caliper to that dimension and use the sharp points on the ID end to mark my paper. I can easy cut 500 patches in less than an hour that way.
I use the paper cutter too, in a manner similar to Paul Matthews. I say similar because I found it too much of a pain to use the wooden angle guide, and often the bottom layer of paper would slip under the guide. My solution has been to mark patch angles and length with painter's tape on the cutting platform itself, and just align the paper with the tape carefully.
On some boolits, my wet-patch needs to have different angles cut on the ends to accomodate the taper and still have the patch ends meet parallel. This requires cutting the paper so the long grains go across the patch (in-line with the bore) and pulling the wet paper tight for a snug patch. Take Docone31's description of the process for determining patch length and triple it. It's a pain, but once you figure it out for one particular boolit, paper, and process, you can make hundreds of them and not have to do it again for a long time.
Another tip, figure which direction of the sheets you're going to cut, mark your patch width divisions on the sheet, an staple a stack of five sheets together carefully, then staple between each division so when you slice out your strips with the paper cutter, you have five strips stapled together. Start whacking out your patches with the paper cutter starting from the un-stapled end, working toward the staple. This keeps you patch lengths even and lets you cut five at a time.
Gear
Ditto on using the paper cutter. Once you start getting tight groups, you can't seem to load enough PPCB for all the experiments you dream up. The paper cutter helps with that addiction!
Best regards,
CJR
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I wish the book Ii just got had as many photos. Thanks because it answers a lot of questions for me.
Anybody else think this would make a good "sticky" as long as Goodsteel promises not to delete his photos?;-)
Gear
Gear, I think it meets all the requirements for stickification
with ONE caveat....
I want Goodsteel to do a pictoral on his "Pointy Pencil" wrap
Hey, GS, you wrap 'em all dry?
I think that It would make a great Sticky.
Brodie
Same here on the sticky!
When you want a sticky, it sure helps if you let the staff know directly, rather than just posting it on a topic. We don't see every post, by a long shot!
Since I have been patching for a large number of different calibers, I just put a strip of masking tape on my paper cutter at the right angle, and put pencil ticks on it to indicate the right length for the patches. (start by using pi*D*2) This way I can lay one or many strips of paper along the edge of the tape and put a tick mark on the top sheet. Advance that to the edge and slice it. If the mark isn't right I can then adjust it to be where it needs to be. Once I know for certain the mark is in the right place I use a permanent marker to darken the mark and note the caliber. By now my paper cutter is all marked up and I can cut a patch to whatever caliber I want quickly and with no measuring.
That's how I do it also Nobade..
I also drew I line with a fine tip magic marker down the length of the masking tape (that is on a angle) to give me a reference to slide my length of paper along as I cut the patches off..
As an answer to the, so far, unasked question "What angle on the patch is best"? The answer is simply whatever works best for you. I have seen it expounded upon that the best angle is a 30 degree or that the 60 degree is best and of course there is the faction swearing by the 45 degree cut. I`ve seen different "experts" in publications from the Rifleman to books by authors that have lived with patching and all seem to favor different angle cuts. Myself, I use a 60 degree angle cut with decent success. So if I were giving advice, try all three angles and see what works for you.
Montana Charlie. Yup, that open spot is on all my patched slugs and it works fair by me.Robert
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I cut mine at 60 degrees.
Or is it 30?
All depends on how I look at them.
:veryconfu
It seems to me that a good cutting board/cropping board would be the ideal way to cut these patches.
Anyone ever use a cigarette rolling paper as the patch?
OK, my question for the day is why sometimes wrap dry or sometimes wet? I've started out wrapping wet and wet paper definitely has its own problems. Haven't tried dry yet but can't quite grasp what keeps the patch from loosening. After you wrap dry can you still run them thru a sizer? Goat
Never had any luck dry patching myself. I want the patch to shrink tight on the bullet and lock into the grease grooves. Works best for me anyway.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/pict...pictureid=5718
Had way too much spare time last weekend so I thought I'd have a crack at my own patch design for the little Lee 105 SWC.
The white triangles are a pain in the butt to cut out but the end product is good for a laugh.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/pict...pictureid=5717
That's way cool! How do they shoot? And the curved leading edge? Does that have any practical value? It those work a punch can be made to cut them out quickly for 'mass production'. That base idea could be the start of a new thing. You should develop it further (along with a punch device). And I'm being serious. You never know, it might work a treat (not because of the hazard warning but because of the principal. It'll cover the base and possibly come off the base better than other forms).:drinks:
Might "pinking shears" work for the base cut?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinking_shears
With the iron sight Rossi I couldn't really see much difference in grouping, so I'll have to do a better test with some in a 30 cal with a scope.
However I was surprised at how well the little pp 105 performed and there was a bit of interest down at the range.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/pict...pictureid=5737
I went to the local printer/stationer, and he will cut the paper in almost any width I like with his guillotine shear, can do about 50 in a stack with a cardboard stiffener on both sides, all for $5, using my paper- though he has a selection. He can do vertical or horizontal cuts, as I request. Comes out rubber banded in stacks of 50- 100, all I do is separate into scissor sized stacks, staple one end, and scribe the lines, then cut them off. Bet I can do 1000 in 1 hr, if I can keep concentration up!
Doug
BTW, this was done by the printer while I waited, maybe 10 min!
I use a template cut from a Bud can, and cut 6-8 patches at a time with a single edge razor blade, holding the template down hard on a vinyl tile. I guess I could cut strips with a paper cutter, then do the angled ends with my template.
very cool
Good Steel,
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Your step by step photos are great! I do have one question. On the last photo of Post #10, you are marking the excess paper for the correct length for two wraps. My question is this: Have you twisted the patch the correctly for a right hand twist barrel?
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Attachment 96061
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I've done more than my fair share of Teflon tape on pipe fittings. You gotta go the other way or the threads just chew the Teflon up. I know that's the way it is for pipe, is it the same for paper patching? Or does it matter for the brief fraction of a second the patched boolit travels down the barrel? Perhaps you were patching for a left hand twist barrel? Please advise.
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That photo brought back memories of the last round of remodeling!
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Thank you and regards,
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When you wrap DRY, what keeps it tight? How does it NOT loosen up please?If wrapping WET, what do you wet with?
thanks
I have a roliing wheel paper cutter set up to cut patches and it works very well. I glue 10 sheets of onion papers on 2 edges. I have a fence made to set width at what I want for a given bullet. I then cut the strips to width. With double faced tape I then tape a triangle down in place and set the fence for length. ( all of these dimensions are wrote down in my note book) and by laying the strips along the edge of the triangle I get angled ends and side thru to touch fence and I have length. I can cut a bunch of patches very quick. Finding the "grain" of the paper is another overlooked factor. The paper cutter set up is much quicker and easierthan the templates are. The tapered edges are done so the seam dosnt sit on land one time and in groove next. I have recovered patches at diffrent times the outer wrap is in confetti on the ground and the under wrap is with the tail showing rifleing impressions. The soft slugs are deformed past seeing the shank enough to tell if there is any thing there. If possible recover some of your patches making note of condition and where they were in relation to the muzzle.
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