.32 S&W Long- Shot loads for the Pipsqueak

In another thread I sought some home-made, 3D printed shot capsules for my little S&W .32 Long, but no joy. A poster however said he'd started forming long shells from .327 brass by running them in a .314 Lee sizer die. So I "borrowed" a .327 case from a LGS shop to try.

First, for them to chamber in my revolver, I had to run them in a .309" die. I then charged the case with 2.5 grs. of HP-38 and seated a thin over-powder disc made from a primer box, which was cut with a 303 British case. Next I filled the case with #9 shot, which amounted to about 100 pellets, and topped it off with hot glue.

https://i.imgur.com/6zBQQt2l.jpg

I've shot many dozens of rattlesnakes out here in the last 15 years and learned early on to get close. People pattern pistol shot loads at 10, 15 or even 20 feet which seems silly to me. Although I've never really measured the distance at which I shoot, when I stepped off 6' to test this load, I realized that would be at the absolute maximum distance at which I would shoot at a snake. That said, I think the load would work wonderfully at that range-

https://i.imgur.com/m6fJhDcl.jpg

Just for grins, I did try the load at 10', which seemed like 10 yards, and it would've worked, but just barely (Maybe I should've aimed more carefully...?)-

https://i.imgur.com/Xf9A8nal.jpg

So there you are! Now I just have to go back to the gun shop and make a deal for a few more pieces of brass.

35W

Have you try this with other powders then the one you have ?

Looks good! I'm still happy to run a few plastic shot cups if you become interested. I've my new printer all up and running to boot. Having an industrial machine is NICE!
Bulldogger

I’m following this (and your other) thread with interest. I’m curious at this point though... why did you have to reduce the front section all the way down to .309”? Since my bullets are either .313 or .314” and chamber necks are sized accordingly, I’m guessing I could reduce the front of my shell accordingly; or am I missing something?

Froggie

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Originally Posted by trapper9260

Have you try this with other powders then the one you have ?

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No, and I probably won't. I'm not sure any powder would have an advantage over another.

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Originally Posted by Bulldogger

Looks good! I'm still happy to run a few plastic shot cups if you become interested. I've my new printer all up and running to boot. Having an industrial machine is NICE!
Bulldogger

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That'd be great and much appreciated!

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Originally Posted by Green Frog

I’m following this (and your other) thread with interest. I’m curious at this point though... why did you have to reduce the front section all the way down to .309”? Since my bullets are either .313 or .314” and chamber necks are sized accordingly, I’m guessing I could reduce the front of my shell accordingly; or am I missing something?

Froggie

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I don't know why my .314" die wouldn't work. I found that after I loaded a round if I ran it in the seater die it helped the round chamber more easily.

35W

Very interesting idea, I will be converting a half dozed 327s shortly. I suspect the size discrepancy could be spring back, perhaps anneal the neck area first???

Those shot shells turned out slick , you did good.

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Originally Posted by 35 Whelen

No, and I probably won't. I'm not sure any powder would have an advantage over another.




That'd be great and much appreciated!



I don't know why my .314" die wouldn't work. I found that after I loaded a round if I ran it in the seater die it helped the round chamber more easily.

35W

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Ok thank you for letting me know I had got the 327 mag and the 32 H&R Mag shot shell done . with out any caps. Just use the cases .

Back when I was trying this a few years ago, I found that a plastic straw from McDonald's worked okay as a shot capsule for the .32 S&W Long.

A bit of melting with a butane lighter and I got somewhere around 65-70 grains of #12 shot in them. I drilled a 5/16" hole trough a wooden Jinga block to use as a form tool. That doesn't sound like much shot, but it about three times as much as is in a .22LR shot shell, and those work okay on snakes.

I got distracted by life and never followed up, but I think it will work better than bare shot through rifled bore.

Robert

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Originally Posted by Mk42gunner

Back when I was trying this a few years ago, I found that a plastic straw from McDonald's worked okay as a shot capsule for the .32 S&W Long.

A bit of melting with a butane lighter and I got somewhere around 65-70 grains of #12 shot in them. I drilled a 5/16" hole trough a wooden Jinga block to use as a form tool. That doesn't sound like much shot, but it about three times as much as is in a .22LR shot shell, and those work okay on snakes.

I got distracted by life and never followed up, but I think it will work better than bare shot through rifled bore.

Robert

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This sounds interesting for the straw .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mk42gunner

Back when I was trying this a few years ago, I found that a plastic straw from McDonald's worked okay as a shot capsule for the .32 S&W Long.

A bit of melting with a butane lighter and I got somewhere around 65-70 grains of #12 shot in them. I drilled a 5/16" hole trough a wooden Jinga block to use as a form tool. That doesn't sound like much shot, but it about three times as much as is in a .22LR shot shell, and those work okay on snakes.

I got distracted by life and never followed up, but I think it will work better than bare shot through rifled bore.

Robert

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I used a McDonalds straw to make shot loads for a 30-30 TC pistol. Used my wife's iron to do the heating. A little experimentation determined the proper heat setting on the iron. Got 150 gr of #10 in the capsules made.

That's the beauty of using a straw, infinite loads. I used a drillbit shank as a mandrel to form the lower end of the shot capsule.

My plan was to test fire the loads in a Ruger SSM .32 H&R before I ever tried one in one of my little I-Frame S&W's.

maybe one day...

Robert

I make my own for the 327.

https://youtu.be/cXhRCTV1O_c

CW

Very interesting thread. I always learn something when I get on here. Today's shot load information was no different. I carry my 3 1/2" model 29 a lot for this very purpose. I use the Speer shot capsule and #7 1/2 shot usually. However rolling your own with a McDonald's plastic straw, or a power coated ball has got to be something I will try. I have killed many copperheads, and cottonmouths with my set up. It also works good with the pigeons that roost in my barn but there I go to #12 shot which is much kinder to my steel roof. I now have barn swallows but they eat lots of bugs so they get a pass from me.

look at the sticky up above by gearnasher.
I make .32 shotload using his method and no.12 shot.
Only way to do it for me.

I make my own for 327 and 32 H&R mag , now it looks like I should look into doing it for the 32 S&W Long now .

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Originally Posted by Alferd Packer

look at the sticky up above by gearnasher.
I make .32 shotload using his method and no.12 shot.
Only way to do it for me.

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That is what got me thinking about using the straw in the first place.

Spring is right around the corner, I really need to find my bag of #12 shot and get busy on this again.

Robert

I used to make shot loads for my .30 blackhawk with a little bullseye, a card OP wad glued to a cork (gasket material) cushion wad, and the rest of the case full of #9s with either a card wad sealed with enamel paint or a .30 gas check for OS. I was already making them for .357 and .44 so I figured, why not? I cut the card and cork wads out with a gasket punch set spinning in the drill press. 5/16", 3/8" and 7/16" worked fine. The reformed plastic straw sounds like a good bet for the .32-20s. Thanks!
Ed <><

Check out the sticky by Gearnasher back at the start of this subject.
Any extended or flush shotshell wad for any caliber pistol can be cobbled up using his method.
In any case, you need to get some No.12 shot.

It will devastate small live targets even with seemingly small
.32 payloads.
Good to at least 10 to 12 feet for sure for me using Gearnasher methods of wad construction and loading.
Don't knock it till you try it.
.32 H&R Ruger , single six, 6 "bbl.

8mm is about the the same as a .32 and there used to be 8mm rimfire shot shells.

SOLD - $75.00
8mm Rimfire Shotshells For Remington M-310 RF guns america
Attachment 313903

One can still buy the 9mm flobert rimfire shot shells.

It looks like those 8mm shells are crimped over the shot. Early on in this discussion the idea of using a die intended for crimping blanks came up… I have to wonder though, how many times that brass case will take a crimp before failing. With the high cost of cases, this is a consideration!

OTOH, with the Woke movement to Green Practices, those plastic straws are disappearing too. I guess if we’re going to make out own shot loads for revolvers we’ll have to pay to play, however we do it.

Froggie

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Originally Posted by Green Frog

It looks like those 8mm shells are crimped over the shot. Early on in this discussion the idea of using a die intended for crimping blanks came up… I have to wonder though, how many times that brass case will take a crimp before failing. With the high cost of cases, this is a consideration!

OTOH, with the Woke movement to Green Practices, those plastic straws are disappearing too. I guess if we’re going to make out own shot loads for revolvers we’ll have to pay to play, however we do it.

Froggie

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I just had another thought, how about the 1895 nagant. It is a 7.62x38 case and I bet that would hold some shot. Use an over the shot wad with a enough crimp to allow the cylinder to index and close when it gets thrust forward for the gas seal.

https://cdn3.volusion.com/ywjth.nxqz...tos/762A-2.jpg

Might be worth a look, barnetmill. I have no firsthand experience with that cartridge and the Nagant system, but it sounds interesting.
Froggie

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Originally Posted by Green Frog

Might be worth a look, barnetmill. I have no firsthand experience with that cartridge and the Nagant system, but it sounds interesting.
Froggie

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I do have a nagant revolver. that case allows one to put a huge shot load in the cylinder, but I have no idea how it groups or if it is safe put such a load in the gun. I bet someone has already tried it.

I've done the same basic thing with my 32-20. I use #12 because it just doesn't hold very many #9 pellets.

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Originally Posted by HWooldridge

I've done the same basic thing with my 32-20. I use #12 because it just doesn't hold very many #9 pellets.

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What did you use for wads. I would use gas checks.

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Originally Posted by barnetmill

What did you use for wads. I would use gas checks.

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I just punch them out of card stock. Gas checks also work fine if you have the right size.

CWlongshot's Youtube link is dead but I found his interesting video on .327 shot cartridges on his Rumble channel.