Ran across these on an eBay search. One appears to be a very nasty hollow point slug, one is a hollow base sabot, and the last is a 1oz round ball mold.
Has anyone tried one of these molds? Specifically the Zveroboy hollow point slug.
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Ran across these on an eBay search. One appears to be a very nasty hollow point slug, one is a hollow base sabot, and the last is a 1oz round ball mold.
Has anyone tried one of these molds? Specifically the Zveroboy hollow point slug.
The one I have seen in a link sent by "too many things" looks like it requires an attached wad:
<EBAY LINK REMOVED>
Not sure where you would get the wads once you had the mould. Also, not sure why anyone would want a rapidly expanding/fragmenting 12 ga. slug except maybe for close up and personal defense. My opinion anyway. I am sure it would be good for blowing up water jugs and melons too so there is that fun factor.
Interesting and one of many varieties of slugs that seem to be developed in Russia and Europe. They seem to have developed far more types of slugs than I have seen on this side of the pond. I wonder if it has something to do with gun restrictions as many designs are for smoothbores? Interesting stuff anyway.
Longbow
Looks like an interesting mold, like that different HP pins can be bought for different weights. Was looking at it trying to figure out how they got the cross hatch in the slug, ah its in the 'base pin' so its like a conventional hollow point mold base poured vs a hollow base type slug. Rifled gun probably wouldn't need a wad to stay attached.
It lists a recommended wadding, but I have never seen/heard of them, something from Italy.
I bet it would would make a nasty expansion wound, penetration not so much though.
Gualandi Bior-Pallettoni 20mm green (BRP 20).
http://www.gualandi.it/en/products_p...allettoni.html
If not an attached wad then the slug is for rifled gun only.
I saw those today. I'm ordering both of them.
Ok, just pulled the trigger and bought both molds. They even sell the pins for the Lyman type slug to adjust for different weights. I emailed the guy and we worked out a little package deal.
Coming from Russia, I'll prolly get them in April. [emoji57]
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The name on Ebay svaroghunt.ru this is the website of the company.Discount 20%
http://svaroghunt.ru/pulelejka-kalibr-12
I'll try to buy.Can PayPal.e-mail For retail svarog.zakaz@mail.ru
http://svaroghunt.ru/pulelejka-kupit
Looks like a lot of fun. I like the water jug idea.
But since the wads are only sold in 5000, you've got to be serious about it.
Should only take about 2-3 weeks. Depending on which port in comes in. If it is coming through JFK then expect it to be a month or more. If it comes in the west side of the country expect a little less.
Hello Bob, you guys can get smaller quantities from this site. http://www.siarm.com/index.php?cPath...76554cf7068ac3 Otherwise you can use a gas seal and wax treated card wad above. Same effect, but bior pallettoni is more practical.
Oh nice, thank you!
BTW, i ordered both of those Russian molds and it said I should have them by April 4th. Damn.
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Anyone thought of asking the ebay seller if he can/would sell the wads?
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Sho.../products/656/
Here are your wads
There is a 2mm difference the one I linked is 18mm and the one you said goes with it is 20mm. I hard card under the slug is all you would need. Or if you were role crimping just role it in with the card over the slug. Or trim the hull 2 mm.
Lots of ways around it without having to spend major amounts of cash. Call BP and ask if they could order in the BP20.
Molds should be in today
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Got the double cavity 16.8mm (.661ish)roundballmould today.. looks great
Heating up the lead "forge" now. My only concern is the segmenting slug calls for silicone spray. I prepped the mold like you would any other. We'll see how it goes.
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Awaiting results. I am really interested in the .678" double-ball mold for in-wad improvised pumpkin balls.
Attachment 188825
So just regular mold prep doesn't work. Looked all around for silicone mold releasing agent but couldn't find any. Instead, I used WD-40 silicone lube that's good for up to 500 degrees. Worked like a charm.
Got my wads in. Only thing I have to do now is screw the slug to the wad and start load work ups.
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Are their instructions to screw the wad to the slug?
I've tried that (with different slugs) a long time ago with total failure. I used regular cushion leg wads but of course had to drill a hole through for the screw and of course gas leaked around the screw. I kinda figured but was trying what I could to see if it would work at all.
Not seeing anything on the Svarog and wad attachment except a poorly translated page that seems to indicate a lead rivet to hold the wad. Did your mould come with instructions for wads and attachment? Just curious. Without an attached wad it would only be good in rifled bore if diameter is correct for rifling engagement.
I'm a smoothbore shooter so limited to drag stabilized slugs and round balls at this point. I will be interested in your results though.
What is you overall impression of mould quality and cast slug quality?
Longbow
Their picture shows the split hollow point slug as having broken up, which I would think it almost invariably would on hitting anything substantial. I can't imagine that giving any advantage over hitting something with a non-hollow, fairly flat nosed shotgun slug.
LB,
There is a hole that is cast into the slug at the base. The pics on eBay shows a screw being used to attach the slug to the wad. I'll use small flathead screws and I won't comprise the gas seal.
I'm impressed with the quality of both molds. Both slugs drop without tapping. The segmented slug became easier to drop once I used the WD silicone lube.
The instructions it came with where general instructions but at least it was in English.
I have high hopes for both my SB and rifled barrels.
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Hello, i have ordered 2 molds myself. One is the double ball and the other is the lyman clone, with additional plug to make the slug lighter. We shall see. :)
That's exactly what I did. I'm a little concerned with the thickness of the skirt walls. They seem to be a lot thinner than the stock plug it come with. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5bd6ea61eb.jpg
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This thread came at a great time for me. I was given a Mossberg 695 slug gun last fall. Havent shot it yet, but i did take it apart for a good cleaning. Also stoned the sear surfaces so they don't look like a ratchet.
Anywho, I ordered both of these slug molds, can't wait for them to arrive.
You'll like them. Super easy to cast.
Here's some pics of the hole:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6acb1ef72d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ef895a3c89.jpg
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Ill bet a couple of those BPI "gas seals" with the hole through would be good on those:
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/HB1...tinfo/072HB12/
Aaaahhh! I see now they are calling them gas seals and base wads. First time I saw them a couple of years ago I'm pretty sure they were just called gas seals which seemed odd but I guess if they are screwed or riveted to the base of a slug they would indeed be a gas seal.
I tried ordering some from Will Bilozir of Bilozir Fine Guns in Alberta (Canadian BPI distributor) a couple of years ago but for some reason there was confusion and then I got distracted with life getting in the way of fun so never followed up. I am getting back around to some fun I hope!
In any case, they look like a good match for those Svarog slugs in a rifled gun. Two might be enough to drag stabilize a slug from smoothbore... which is what I was going to try with my gun and slugs. Maybe this time around.
I'd recommend filling the hollow base of the Lyman clones especially if they are thin. I think the skirts will collapse if the slugs are cast from soft or softish lead.
Have you shot any of these yet? Hollow point or Lyman clones? I'm sure curious to see how they perform.
Longbow
Ciao Longbow (ArcoRicurvo, in italian) i have ordered the Lyman clone with a plug insert to make it (30 grams, a bit over 1 oz). I was thinking, after a few trials, to cut a key drive in the plug (lee style). That way, there is no way it would collapse. What do you think? :)
I think I'll copper plate the skirt of the thinned walled slugs to see if that will help.
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Tony:
"ArcoRicurvo" indeed! I make wood bows so there is lots of "arco" in the flight for sure... not nearly as fast as laminated bows (or compounds), but fun to make and shoot... and they worked well enough for our ancestors so good enough for the likes of me!
On the slugs, yes, I have thought the same thing about modifying the hollow base pin by slotting it like the Lee though I was looking at 2 slots so crossed keys. If you do that you may have to make a new pin to keep balance point far enough forward if you are using it for smoothbore. For rifled gun balance point likely wouldn't matter.
I think the key is a good idea if you do not want to fill the hollow base but hot melt glue, silicone or other is easy to use and works pretty well. Not sure about the narrow waist on the Lyman slug and if the filled skirt might push forward there. I don't have one of those moulds so no personal experience. Certainly the key would help if that was an issue.
I have found several Lyman slugs others have shot that indicate pretty significant skirt collapse though if it is even it should not affect accuracy. These would be softish lead.
As for no way it would collapse, I am not so sure at least if cast from soft lead. I have made very thick skirted slugs (as in really thick) that collapsed and my 6 finned slug fins also collapsed unless heat treated. Of course that is another solution ~ cast the slugs from wheelweights then oven heat treat and that should keep skirts from collapsing but... it makes the slugs pretty brittle. I tried some thin skirt slugs with the intention of getting them as nose heavy as I could then oven heat treated and while they shot not bad, they broke up badly on impact so I gave up on those. I have photos if you are interested.
Anyway, hollow base pins are pretty easy to make or get made so trying the key certainly won'/t hurt and it may do the trick. The key does help keep wads out of the base but then so does hot melt glue. If you don't like the result a new pin is easy to make. or make a pin to slot and keep the original as is. Never hurts to have options.
Longbow (ArcoRicurvo)
Found more Russian slug molds.
http://bulletmold.ru/ассортимент/prices-leyki/
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Now that's an entertaining link!
I have been to the site before but some time ago. New look and lots more stuff! I see they have copied Dixie's Tusker too. Externally it look the same though the HB cavity appears to be much deeper. The original Tusker was for rifled gun and I think the large groove and HB were simply to keep weight down (600 grs.) and get some more bearing length. They shot not bad out of my smoothbore and nose first but pretty large groups. I think out of rifled gun they would be great. and I am surprised no-one on Cast Boolits has had a mould made. Accurate would make the mould but not hollow base pin.
Actually it looks like they have copied or are marketing all of the popular styles of slugs and components.
Those moulds do look pretty nice too.
Well, I am off the the pot to cast a few of my own ribbed slugs for testing. I have quite a few different styles of hollow base and attached wad slugs to test but just have not gotten it done. Hopefully that changes shortly.
Thanks for posting that link. I'll save it and just might do some searching and buy something. It all looks good and prices seem good too.
Longbow
I got to learn to look more carefully! I just went back to the first page and scrolled down... they got lots of great stuff there! I was wondering if they had the Tusker mould but all I saw on the page I went to were slugs. Well, scroll down and there it is with a variety of HB plugs and some to suit wads. They have a mould for Gualandi style slugs too! Its about time someone did this. Now I do have to spend some time on this site and probably some money too!
I'm in talks with them right now to become a US rep for them.
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