how far are you willing to go?

My father bought in 1954 a lubeasizer of rcbs (second handend?)
The thread that is holding the sizer die is doing nothing anymore.
Its leaking from top and from the bottom.
There is some original rcbs grease in it(some leftovers i put in/have/bought 20 years ago)(run out atm btw)
They smell so good!!!!!!
How when or what ever that grease...I really dont know, for all i know i had a stick of rcbs left from 10 years ago, bought 30 years ago? and some how the smell activated some good memories.
Its on my table from 2017 and in use(38spl only .356) so the rcbs grease? i have really no clue.
lbt mix?, own mix? rcbs mix?
Yes some bullits have lbt blue.


But as the title is saying, how far do you want to go?

Tonight, the wrench on the "pillar??" give up also.
Wrench is still in good working order.
(Sorry that my technical English is still not in order.)

But how far are you willing to go?!?!?!?
Put epdm rubber foile to stop the leaking on the top nut and bottom?(i dont think this can be done for bottem)
Or just stop here?
?
?
?
?
The "old" rcbs grease is it still made so i can order?!?!?!????(mainly for 38spl and memory smell?)

How far would YOU go?
https://i.postimg.cc/XqygT4Yk/20240323-193200.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/14hKS2gh/20240323-193221.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/xCZRxcnd/20240323-193232.jpg

I already toke the worst grease out of it(leaking parts) before making pictures.


With best regards Igor

I think it is time to move on and buy a new lubeasizer.

I'd try heating it by waving a propane torch on it.
When it gets too hot to touch, the old grease/lube should melt and flow out.

The retaining nuts & all should free up too.
There's common 'O' rings on the die that you can replace as well as the press itself.
The leaking might just be from putting too much pressure on the handle.

I'd take it apart, clean it, get new lube, or make your own.
It sounds like it doesn't have much 'mileage' on it and might be fine when you put it back together.

Send it back to RCBS for replacement.

I would clean it up and see if it could be repaired if it belonged to my father. Especially since you can still buy the same lubricant that has all the fond memories associated with the smell. I would probably get a new one for everyday use though.

Call RCBC first because shipping from the Netherlands to California might be cost prohibitive. I'd also heat it to soften the old lube but use a electric heat gun instead of a torch. I'd probably burn the house down if I used fire.;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Minerat

I'd probably burn the house down if I used fire.;)

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If you're not hanging out there living on the edge,,,,, you're taking up too much room.
(I never understood that, but an old friend used to say it to me a lot)

To start I would strip it down as far as possible. I would find a pot big enough for the part to fit in and boil the lube of. As far as that jury rigged device that holds the die in place you may have to find someone who can make a new nut to go in there and rethread the press. The rest really doesn't look bad other than that one piece.

Suggested retail for a new LUBE-A-MATIC®-2 BULLET SIZER/LUBRICATOR here in the states is $215.99 from RCBS.

Practically speaking I'd say that repairing it is going to cost more than a new one. Cutting new threads and having a new nut made is not going to be cheap unless you have a machinist friend who will do the work for free. I'd either keep using it with the homemade die retainer plate arrangement or buy a new one. I'd guess you can experiment with O-rings and varying the tightness of the 4 screws holding the plate down to keep leaks manageable at least. When it does leak, you can just scrape the lube off and put it aside to reload the next time you have the piston out to add a stick of lube. The ratchet wrench is easy to replace. The cheap stamped wrench that came with mine wore out years ago.

Thank you all for your replays.
All very good comments.
I toke it partially apart.
I remembered we had from rcbs in 2008-2010ish some spare parts.
https://i.postimg.cc/Vsrs8j4L/new.jpg

So that "pillar" is going in new with the new wheel.

The problem is the retaining nut.
There is no thread left on/in the cast iron base.
https://i.postimg.cc/YSpTCHHz/lock-nut.jpg

I think because the retain nut cannot be held down properly there is leakage on the top and bottom.
Thats why i made two steel plates to hold the nut into place.

I think also that a company will charge so much it would be better to buy a new one.
I also think after i made it clean i can put it all together and solder with a 100 watt iron the lock nut into place, solid with the base.
Regarding saving some grease, i think i throw it all away, what if there is some iron debris in it, some grease is not really good looking.

Suggested retail here incl vat is around.....have a seat....sitting down?....350 euro.

If it were mine, I would tear it apart, degrease it, sandblast it, replace the threads with a Heli coil if they make the right size, if not retap and make an oversize plug.
Then I would repaint it.
Anyway, I would try.
Of course, if you don't have the tools, it would make more sense to replace it.

If you are at the point of soldering the nut and not being able to replace the 356 die, and you are good with that, then I'd go one step farther, because you are going to likely find out that the solder is not going to attach to a large piece of cast iron using a 100W Iron.

Use a torch and braze it.
If you are not familiar with brazing, maybe find a professional welder to braze it for you. You will need to dissassemble it completely and totally clean all the lube out, but that should fix it permanently.

I would go all the way in restoring it . Complete take down and total cleaning .
Look for leaks ... most lube-sizers have rubber gaskets and O-rings that can be replaced . RCBS might have an up-grade kit or repair kit for your model .

I have an old Lyman 450 , it near 50 years old and I've never replaced any parts but I knew one day something was going to start leaking or a part wear out ...
I checked with Lyman and they sold a rebuild and upgrade kit for the 450 ...
has all the parts in one small package , sent through the mail ...
RCBS should have a similar upgrade / repair kit for their unit ... E-Mail Em !
Good Luck
Gary

@jonB i am not yet familiar with the term: to braze.
I was afraid that the solder wil not hold, thanks for your replay.
The lubeasizer is now in a old oven at 100C to melt all off.(at this moment of writing this replay!)
Maybe i need to go to 130C 150C or even up to 200C, i will see.
I will throw it also in the decreasing bin (automotive grade degreaser...)

I am aslo running a experiment with "pan lubing" at the moment.

But my "own/second" lubeasizer is with lbt grease for my rifles (and for 44 mag)
Cant thank some members enough for there knowledge!!!!

I already made my arbore press a push thru sizer.(bought it for gas check making)
How ever that is/was for experimental homemade lube.

I have no problems with "losing" a sizer die in a fixed setup.
I shoot to much boolits at .356 in my Ruger gp100 and i hope i getting my Rossie back!!!
This is my second Ruger.gp100..it is almost done...almost time for number three.
Even in the black hawk from 60+ years ago, yes (t)his junk(sizer die and lubasizer) is old....

So i really have no problem to get this die fixed into a fixed rig for only .356.
My nephew is a pro welder, i can ask him. i hope.

@gary
I dont think rcbs has a "upgrade kit" but i will email them for sure.
I am going all the way or throw it away...i still did not made up my mind, my heart is saying out loud: keep it...restore it....my mind is saying: waste of time....my wallet is saying wait a couple of months...one step at the time.
Thanks for the good luck wish.
For leaks i dont think there are rubbers where the sizer die must seal the body of the sizer.
Bottom and top!
But after the melt down of the grease/lube i will find out, maybe there are some and i can replace. but i think atm there are none.
We will see after cleaning, i will keep you all updated.

Again, thank you all for your really helpful replays, i will keep you all updated!

Thanks, and with best regards Igor from the Netherlands

Thread is gone
https://i.postimg.cc/xTYdj8Wq/thread-is-gone-1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/8CFpX6rX/thread-is-gone-3.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/YCCqgV2H/thread-is-gone-two.jpg

Thing was HOT 100C no wander why....

But what is this part?
https://i.postimg.cc/5980MLKZ/what-is-this.jpg

With best regards, Igor

Everything made by RCBS is guaranteed for life. Contact them and explain your situation. You could even reference their representative to this thread so they could have a better idea of your situation. Since their policy is to repair or replace anything that is defective or breaks (not from abuse), they might even just send you a new one. You'll never know unless you ask them, so make the call or send them an email.

Brazing is along the lines of soldering onto cast Iron or Steel with a brass rod & torch.

It's sort of in between soldering and welding.

I don't see how that thread could possibly be salvaged. A Heli-coil normally requires a longer bearing surface than you have there. So some kind of welding such as brazing is about the only way to get a die "sealed" in there so it won't leak. If you don't have a problem with making this Lubrisizer a permanent .356 sizer, that is one possible solution. Better be careful when brazing though so you don't melt the O-rings on the sizer die.

I think I would contact RCBS first however to see if they would help you out. Gun related companies are known to be generous with warranties. But be aware that if they give you a new Lubrisizer you will get the much worse to use Slide Bar rather than a hex shaft to turn the Lube screw with. I'd keep the threaded hex shaft if at all possible. Being able to always have that wrench in the same position every time you reach up to give it a pull is worth a lot.

As others have said I would first talk to RCCBS before doing anything. That being said I see you are in The Netherlands and that might be an issue.

After that I think I would talk to a machinist and have the hole with the stripped threads enlarged. I would then have him make an insert with the correct threads for a new hold down nut from RCBS. You said your nephew is a pro welder then he should be able to tig weld or braze the insert in there.

Drill and tap through the upper ring of the casting for a set screw. File a ring around the retaining nut at the appropriate depth to help the set screw hold it in. Sacrifice your memories of the RCBS lube scent and find some 50/50 Alox/beeswax (NRA formula) lube and use the minimum pressure you can to make it flow. Better still, make some Felix World Famous Lube (FWFL) instructions are in a sticky in the lube section of this board. FWFL flows very easily.

Good luck!

1954? You got your Dad's money's worth. Time to move on to a new one.

Sure, it's worth seeing if RCBS will replace it (fair chance they will), but having two would not be a bad thing.

At the 350 Euros for a new one, I would try some of the suggestions others have offered to repair it. I am not able to weld but I wonder if bedding epoxy would work in this situation. JB Weld might work too.

Worst case, having it dedicated to one size is not a bad thing. Beats scrapping it IMO.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by parkerhale1200

@jonB i am not yet familiar with the term: to braze.
I was afraid that the solder wil not hold, thanks for your replay.
>>>SNIP

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Igor,
Brazing is basically soldering, but instead of lead and/or Tin alloy solder, you use Brass or Bronze alloy rod...and a hotter torch. It's a much stronger joint, that solder.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brazing

A good machinist or tool & die maker with a CNC mill could fix the thread and make a new nut in a couple of hours. But unless you know somebody like that, you're out of luck.

One way to fix it could be drilling and pinning the old nut in place and seal both nut and die with Lock-Tite. It would be a more or less permanent solution, and some lube will probably still find its way out somewhere, but that's part of the charm of old sizers.

Keep us updated as to what happens .

I love a good Rescue Story !

I've pulled several reloading presses from the junk pile and got them going again with just a little effort .
Being Cajun ... I hate to throw anything away ... my Daddy would fix anything and everything rather than trash it ... he was the most frugal man I ever knew !

Good Luck
Gary

Had the threads strip on my LAM I that I bought used. Not sure how old it was but pretty sure was a lot newer than yours. RCBS had me send it back and sent me a new LAM II free. Nostalgia is fine but at some point you just have to let go. I'm sure your Dad would prefer you had something that worked.

EDIT: As an alternative you might try drilling two holes 90 degrees apart in the frame and tapping for two set screw to hold the nut in place. IIRC the old LYMAN 45 used this system. Hold the nut and die down using the ram without the top punch to keep it tight and also compress the O-ring, then tighten the set screws. Added bonus, if you ever need to change to a different sizing die just loosen the set screws.

You don't have to be Cajun to have had a frugal Daddy! He would tip the drained oil cans (remember the cardboard oil cans with the metal tops/bottoms?) into a quart mason jar until he had a quart full. When he had a full quart mason jar: next oil change, he only had to buy 4!

After you've reached out to RCBS, let us know how things work out.

My question is, does RCBS have a clearing company of some sort in the Netherlands? It may get rather expensive to return the press to the states.

Here in the States, we have it good. We call RCBS, they send us a shipping label, we send it back and they fix the problem. With RCBS we are spoiled.

I'd be tempted to try fixing the size die (and nut) in place with JB Weld. There is not really that much force there to deal with. Adding a set screw in from each side might not be a bad idea either. Everything would need to be very clean for this to work.