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I've noticed that on almost all used scopes sales ads the seller claims "slight ring marks". I've had some scope rings come with tape but I don't know if that really ever eliminated the scratches. Is there some way to avoid these when mounting a new scope:?:
Be careful when mounting. Ham fisted will get you ring marks.
Rick
Honestly, one of my favorite activities is swapping scopes on rifles; most of the time I don't even get to sight them in before changing things around again. :-/
But have never put a ring mark on a scope, ever. I honestly don't know how people manage to do this as often as they do.
So.... you're dealing with mass-produced rifles, mass-produced scope bases, mass-produced scope rings and mass-produced scopes. There will always be slight imperfections.
Either research scope ring lapping or switch to scope rings with inserts such as those sold by Burris in the Signature line.
As with most things, there is a correct way to do things and then the multiple other ways to do things. Proper scope mounting involves a lot more than simply applying fasteners in holes and tightening things.
Bubba will tell you:
Torque wrenches are evil, and must be punished!
They should be rounded up, crushed, put on trial, found guilty, and sent to the Russian Front.
Making sure the rings are aligned properly and using the proper torque can eliminate ring marks. To properly align rings, shimming and/or bedding of the scope mount bases may need to be done. Care, when slipping ring segments over scope, maybe with a piece of paper between ring pieces when putting rings around scope to avoid scratches, not saying to tighten rings over paper. Again ring/base alignment and proper torque as specified by mount maker. 6-48 - 15-20 in-lbs, 8-40 - 18-30 in-lbs both are not close to 'JUST BEFORE THEY BREAK !' specs. When old or maker unknown, I use 18 in-lbs on 6-48, 25 in-lbs on 8-40, it really is not a lot of force.
Here is my method of avoiding rings marks; 100% results.
I take all my rings when new, or if buying them used at the guns show, and using steel wool, I rub all the interior serfaces well, all those areas where rings contact the scope. Second, I drag a fingernail along all the edges looking for catch marks as this is where scratches come from. Once satisfied, I clean them using gun scrubber, wipe dry then put gun oil on them to make slippery, mount the bases onto the rifle with precision alighment, (another story) then lay the scope in carefully while aligning forward/backward and with reticle vertical. At this point, one can use small paper shims but I never do that. Redfield used to have those shims in the box, remember those? - 3rd, I put on the top ring pieces, add screws but not tight, just enough to hold the scope on safely while looking through for reticle alignment changes. Once happy, I snug the screws gently going back and forth screw to screw until all 4 are the same, much like when applying torque to engine bolts. This process gives you even scope pressure throughout and now I'm ready to fire and make adjustments. BTW- after 40 years of this I have no scope marks on any of my Leupolds and I do have a bunch of them..Just remember, rings are seldom polished that well and without burrs and even the tinest one can mark your scope. 4th, if needing to rotate later at the range, loosen the screws lots, not just a little as you may have something like dirt or other has gotten on the ring edges that will scratch. keep scopes clean along their serfaces as well, range dirt is alway present.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MostlyLeverGuns
I'm big on torque wrenches but that reminds me:
I used to know a guy who had what he called an 'audio torque wrench'.
Not having heard of that, I asked him about it.
He told me, "Oh yeah,,,, Tighten a bolt down until it chirps. Then back off 1/16th of a turn".
One time I was putting a 4cyl. GM boat engine back together, and he came by and offered to help.
I had to tell him, "Nahh, that's OK. I got it".
One time I was putting a 4cyl. GM boat engine back together, and he came by and offered to help.
I had to tell him, "Nahh, that's OK. I got it"
I had a friend helping me put an engine & trans in a 63 Corvette which, by the way is no picnic! He subscribed to the "farmer tight" theory too. As he was bolting the shifter to the transmission ear, he broke off the threaded stud! We already had the engine running and coolant in the radiator so this was the last thing before a test drive. I had to walk away for a while to keep from loosing a friend!
I am not a saint when it comes to bolts and nuts either but thankfully I finally bought a FAT torque wrench for my gun tinkering. Bubba would be disappointed.
I love the Burris Signature rings with the inserts. They leave no marks at all.
Always tighten the bolts until they snap off...then back off a half turn
redhawk
+1 for Burris signature rings, worth every penny when mounting a quality or other scope.
https://www.burrisoptics.com/mountin...ignature-rings
Great advice above and I too like the Burris Signature rings with the inserts. Another trick I read somewhere was using rubber cement especially for heavy recoiling guns. The rubber cement just rubs off when removing them and leaves no marks. Not sure if I read that in Brownell’s Kinks .
i put plastic or al from soda cans shims in
i don't really worry about them
Lapping and alignment are important. But when you don't, you can use a piece of electrical tape on each ring, top and bottom, and snug the screws. Not tight, just snug. The tape is soft and "grippy", and snug is enough.
Just make sure it is Scotch 33+ tape. The China tape from Harbor Freight is harder to work with IMHO.Quote:
Originally Posted by oconeedan
Tape on scope rings is NOT a method I'd recommend. It's a Band-Aid to mask an underlying alignment issue.
This sort of thing is why people have accuracy issues they can't solve.
Not that it matters much at 50 yds and under with 3-shot groups.
I use plumbers Teflon tape. Cut a 3 inch piece, lay it in the lower rings, insert the scope, flip the excess over the top of the scope, insert upper rings, and tighten. The tape protects the tube from marking, and adds more friction, to hold the scope in place under recoil. It works well.
As many others mentioned, I use the Burris Sig Rings.
.
But, sometimes I am asked to install a cheap scope on cheap rings on a cheap rifle. I consider the ring marks I leave behind as sort of an Artist's signature :mrgreen:
.
Last week, I'm at my buddy's farm adjusting the disk brakes on his ebike, have I ever mentioned I use to own a Bike shop? Anyway, as I re-install the wheel, and then re-install the brake caliper (as my buddy watches) As the nut and/or hex bolt tightens, I grunt a little and say, Yep, 27 inch lbs. I say that for each one. Yeah, he looked at me cross-eyed and told me I was full of manure.
I have a pair of aluminum scope alignment rods I got in the 80's or so. Crank them in, and if the points don't meet perfectly your scope will be buggered up.
Attachment 324713
I really like the warne rings with the vertical split, the nature of how they install means that you never need to lap or align them and they never leave marks for me. They also have three different versions with return to zero guarantee so I've been using picatinny rails so I can just move them from rifle to rifle as desired.
I recall an article by Ross Sefried where he recommended using 3-M brand liquid electrical tape in scope rings. I think he said it worked well on his heavy recoiling rifles destined to be used in Africa. Claimed he never had experienced any scope movement nor gotten any ring marks on his scopes. I think he mounted the scopes when the liquid was still wet and just let the excess ooze out. I remember him writing that the excess was easy to remove after it had dried.