Has anyone used adhesive to attach a peep sight to a lever gun?
I know D&T is the proper way to do this, but I want to see if I like the setup before spending the money.
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Has anyone used adhesive to attach a peep sight to a lever gun?
I know D&T is the proper way to do this, but I want to see if I like the setup before spending the money.
I used a piece of double stick tape (wall mount variety) to hold a tang sight on a Krag sporter to see if I liked it. Worked alright, but the tape had "squish" in it so not ideal. I ended up not liking it, so put a Williams on it.
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not a lever gun but I've got an antique slide action that looks like someone used some sort of glue, looks like it might be that old fashioned brown rubbery contact cement that used too come in a brown bottle with a brush. well anyway the front sight looks to be glued on place with the stuff and its held that sight solid in place for at least the 20 plus years ive been using the gun.
I'm interested. I've a nice old Mauser, that I'd hate to drill; but the guns utility would increase exponentially with a peep sight versus the pretty but very limited express style sights.
If you find a good way to do it on a lever, it'll likely be very close to a way to do it on another action type.
I put a Lyman receiver sight on my little Henry 22 Lever. I was going to d&t but that would just be going into a thin aluminum shell as you Henry owners know, so I used JB Weld. Been working like a champ for two years now.
I was thinking of trying this:
Attachment 284394
I really enjoy shooting my 1873 Trapdoor but just can’t see those little sights anymore. I do not want to drill or molest it but being able to attach a red dot to it with an adhesive that could be removed with no damage would be something I would do.
JB Weld is the way to go. Degrease everything first.
I used JB Weld to attach a Williams receiver sight and front sight base to my Krag Sporter because I didn't want to drill and tap and used that setup for more than ten years. I did have the receiver sight come off once while hunting but it was a real cold day and it fell over after I leaned it against a tree. I drilled some holes in the back of the sight to allow more grab for the J.B Weld and didn't have any more issues after but didn't let it drop again either. I have since put a Rice sight on it and had the new Criterion barrel drilled and tapped for the front base.
How do you guys make sure it is aligned properly before adhesive?
You don't say what sight you are thinking of mounting on what rifle but for the Williams receiver sight on the Krag it is a specific model for this rifle so only goes in one location with little play. I just aligned it so the eyepiece bar was in the proper position. The front sight base was aligned by sight.
Williams 94/36 on a .357 Rossi 92.
Ok, you now have my attention. I have a Rossi R92 in 44 Magnum and a Williams 94/36. Had both for about a year, but not sure I trust my gunsmith not to pecker it up. If it works, PM me and let me know. Thinking that the easy way to verify alignment would be to line up peep with front sight and existing rear sight.
I would think that sight on the M92 you would want it to be in a similar location as on the M94 it was designed for. Google that sight on a Win M94 and you will see examples of the placement. I have the Williams FP on my Marlin 1894 and it lines up about 1/16" from the top receiver edge but pictures of the FP on the M94 show it a bit higher. You just want it with the eyepiece bar bottomed out to sufficiently clear the bolt and with the windage adjustment set in the middle for the eyepiece to be somewhat aligned with the existing sights. Many receiver sights require a taller front sight blade to get normal adjustment range.
Ive read of people using Loctite Black Max for this purpose. Maybe try searching the forum for it.
Attachment 284435This is a antique H. Piper marksman rimfire rifle that I added the receiver sight to with a small plate with two tapped mounting holes with J B Weld epoxy. So far no problems, if I choose to remove it there wount be any holes in the receiver.
Jedman
I have used superglue. Doesn't last forever, but it is a good way to test out the sight before getting more serious.
I used locktite super glue to mount and test an early tasco pro point ( had the battery housing on the side) on a ruger mark 2 shoat it some and zeroed it up. I then transferred the holes with a transfer punch and drilled and tapped. As far as I know the glue is still holding the weaver blocks.
Mount the fire arm up solid and level it up then level the bases and mark glue and set level. With super glue you have a very short working time. Epoxy gives a longer working time. small spring clamps work well and dont push all the glue out of the joint. If this is a side mount then level needs to be front to back and side to side. If its out front to back then the appeture wont be round or you wont see thru it
Whatever you use, make sure there is a good solvent available in case you decide to take it off later. I turned down an old H&R 12 gage because someone had mounted some type of rear sight with some sort of glue and then removed it with some sort of grinder.
That is the correct sight for the Rossi; lining it up will not be a problem because you just attach it flat against the left side of the receiver and there is plenty of windage adjustment to get sighted in. You do want it reasonably close to level, and as far back as you can get it without blocking the little safety lever thingy (assuming you have the model of Rossi that has that and that you haven't removed it). If you have removed the little safety thingy you can mount your sight back a scosh farther if you want...
I did a bit of research before I got the Williams sight. And dry fitted it. Hate to admit it but my old eyes, and the existing buckhorn rear sight do not work well anymore. Using an adhesive may allow me to see how it shoots and how well I can see with the Williams before drilling and tapping. I am not unacquainted with peep sights; as I was on my college’s varsity rifle team back in ‘69-‘71.
I have used a product called Goop to adhere temporary ribs to trap shotguns.
Sir, I have used the Black Max t affix a front sight to a rifle barrel. Works Great. Randy.
The Black Max will do it. I used a lot of it in industry
For metal to metal, use a good two part epoxy , slow setting and slow curing .
I still like J-B Weld 8265 S Original Cold Weld steel reinforced epoxy , dark grey color and 24 hour full cure time . Follow cleaning & prep directions carefully .
5 minute , quick setting epoxies are not the strongest ... use the slow cure for max strength .
Gary
I have used Brownell glass bed to mount a rear sight on a 22rf. That was 2 or 3 years ago. It has not moved.
I have often Crazy Glued Iron Sights including front and rear to the barrels of rifles.
I do that so that I can check alignment of the sights before I drill and tap them.
This allows me to make final minor adjustments to the sights so when all done , the sights are usually set to zero at 100 yards.
Epoxy works too.
It is just that you wait to let it cure.
With the crazy glue , I can pull off a sight and relocate it and reinstall it when I am at the range with out taking up lots of time.
Reviving this old thread for other thoughts.
I recently had an epiphany about sights (particularly optical sights). I went to my first ever optometrist's appointment. He and I got to jabbering, he enjoys sporting clays and he and I had met up a time or two. I asked him if he could help with measurements for optics/ peep / tang / open sights. He said yes (of course) that's what he does for a living!!
Long story short, given a distance (i.e. eyeball to tang sight) with an objective point (i.e. front sight or target or even both given the right circumstance), any good optometrist should be able to help one choose the appropriate sight. I asked him about a carbine project of mine, he spit out my ideal magnification and distance from my eye that should be ideal. After a bit of research, I turned a gift card into the appropriate optic and I have to say - man knows his stuff! His precision of distance was amazing.
We're supposed to meet up next week so he can try out my shot casting rig, I'm looking forward to his opinion and thoughts on the various sights I have - and more specifically my ability to be able to effectively use those sights for 40 or so years to come!
My thoughts are that with the price of quality made sights, why not make sure my eyes will be able to use them before making that investment!
(Including semi- permanently attaching them to try them out first!!)
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+1 or however many for the use of JB Weld!
oThe amount of surface area the sight has makes a big difference also a small blade with short narrow base not as well as a long ramp type base, fitted scope blocks that match the surface and have a lot of area will hold very well.
When its proved it self if possible I dont remove the sight or bases. but use a good fitting transfer punch to mark then spot drill and drill and tap thru the base or block. A lot of small shops use super glue for one offs. Fixture in a tube.
On a 1894CL Marlin which will see infrequent use & only off of a bench, red Loctite.
Taped off the surrounding area, in case of squeeze out, and the Loctite along with the longer tang screw has held up, so far.
Double sided tape had to much of a rocking motion, side to side.
Thee are several types if double faced tape available. What is sold in the local stores is more for carpet with a spongy core that does give. Then there are some "scotch" tape style that are firmed but not enough adhesive meant more for craft use. 3M makes one that is industrial use a very firm core and very strong adhesive. This is the one you want. Here like the glues surface prep and area make a big difference. At work we used this to machine thin fine parts both in the mill and surface grinder. It is tenacious stuff It would take awhile soaking in thinner to break down and release the part.
I cant remember it when we needed it we got it from the crib when done it was returned. Wish I had some here now for out in the shop.
Williams Gun Sight Co. once made a drop-in Mauser peep sight that interchanges with the top section of the military rear sight.
The Williams WM-96 PEEP : https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1006000848
If interested, I would suggest calling Williams customer service to see if they can a dig up an NOS unit for you.
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Consider using the product used to glue rear view mirrors to windshields. It’s designed to stick to a hard smooth surface. Most glues and epoxies recommend roughing up the mating surfaces. You probably wouldn’t want to do that, if you may be removing it.
maybe this tape ?
3-M VHB