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I have been given tools over the years, they used to be made in Tacoma when I was a kid and were everywhere, but didn’t use them and gave them away. I’m finally going to give it a try, and want to go basic.
I bet I have given away a couple boxes of tools and I think having so much I didn’t know where to start was an impediment more than a blessing.
My inclination is if I have just a basic set of quality tools that I will be best served and can get going.
Years ago, I got a big fat, custom, go faster, hot rod, laminated stock for a heavy barrel Rem700.
It came plain, and Having it checkered was some crazy price. Like $400. or something.
The budget wouldn't support that so I got some basic checkering tools for about $50.
A life long friend came by after it was done and asked, "Not bad. Have you ever done this before"?
I said, "No".
He replied, "Let me get this straight. You bought a $400.... stock and taught yourself how to checker,,,, on it"?
"Yeah.... pretty much".
I didn't tell him I'd read up on it, got sample sheets, and practiced for over a month on a baseball bat and the original
cracked & busted Rem700 stock.
Practice first, and read up on it. Be patient, and it's do-able.
I'd also recommend exercising a lot of patience and work very slowly. Once you remove some wood there's no putting it back.
These currently are the best made and designed. https://www.ullmanprecision.com/products/
Unless you can still focus your eyes from six inches to infinity, get an optivisor. The magnifier that you wear like a face shield.
Then start practicing. I don't think cutting diamonds on a flat surface does much good, but most any curved piece of wood will do.
Good Luck,
Robert
I haven't looked, but Professor youtube probably has a few classes on doing it.
Attachment 325480
This is a pic of my first checkering job. Practiced a bit on some scrap wood, before attempting checkering the pistol grip. Intented to do the fore end, but never got around to it.
I have the illuminated visor. It comes in handier every day. I’m thinking an 18 line tool, a single line tool, a tool for tight spaces and that ought to be it for tools. A couple of the plastic templates. I have the patience. I’m a go slow guy. Thanks for the suggestions so far.
I like it! That is what I have in mind. Nothing fancy. Just get going and learn a little bit every day.Quote:
Originally Posted by CastingFool
A small gooseneck desk light that can be directed to make shadows across the lines helps a lot. Also at the least, a swivel vise with padded jaws to firmly hold the stock. A cradle would be better, but if you're only going to do a few stocks, the vise will suffice.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDHasty
20 lpi will look better and still give a good grip. You will only have to cut a few more lines with the closer spacing.
Well, I got a call out of the blue and don’t know what I have headed this way, but a friend is headed this way from Montana with a box of checkering tools. He retired locally so it’s probably mostly Dem Bart tools. He said there are some replacement cutting heads in the box.
It’s kind of uncanny how he turns up with something I’m thinking about. Last time I saw him he had a couple boxes of NOS 218 Bee brass I desperately needed. He said he can’t see well enough to have any use for the checkering tools and thought of me.
He is coming this way to help a widow sort out a bunch of reloading tools. I will probably be able to put a bunch of Wildcat form and loading dies up soon as I know what all is there.
I have always used Dem-bart tools and found em pretty easy to use. A checking cradle or similar fixture to hold the stock firmly while cutting is a big help too.
Thank everyone once again for the tips.
Maybe it’s meant to be that I finally give it a whirl. Went over to my buddy’s place with a couple problems, and some Lima bean soup, and came home with a box of Dem Bart tools after mentioning that buddy Bill is bringing me his when he comes over from Montana tomorrow. I don’t know what I have, but was told many of them have carbide replacement cutters and there are duplicates set up to cut on the push and pull stroke. I looked them over and are little 60 and 90 degree V gouges and some replacement cutter heads in there too.
He hates working with wood, always has, but is a real perfectionist and I’ve seen stocks he checkered decades ago. He did some very, very nice work with them. Said if he never checkers another gunstock it will be too soon.
I kind of feel like the kid being sent off to college or trade school, expectations seem pretty high. I guess I had better get plans to build a checkering cradle and get to work building one. I have a couple books here somewhere, I’ve never even cracked them. They might have plans in them.
I’ve got a few junk stocks in a pickle bucket in the garage to practice on. Most are off 788s and 580/581/582s and the wrist isn’t checkered on them, they will finally come in handy.
Come on down. I have a Brownell's checkering cradle that is missing the rear saddle, that you can have
That saddle is easy to make from some scrap wood
J Wisner
What a guy. I’ll try and give you a call this week.
Just make sure the first line you cut is straight, cause every other line you cut afterwards, will match it.
Though that checkering looks well done with straight lines and even depth, it has a major error. The length and direction of the diamonds is not "proper". The diamonds should be about 3 times longer than their width with the length axis running along the "length" of the grip near the upper end, much easier explained with a picture I do not have.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDHasty
Yes, make the first line straight and the others will follow. Start the first line shallow and slowly deepen it to keep it straight. When it is about 2/3rds of final depth, start the second line at the proper angle and keep it straight. I looked at one of the Brownells jointers and made my own copy of one using a 1/8" square of drill rod and a metal checkering file to lay out the teeth, deepened with a triangle needle file. I used it to feep those first lines straight. Then space out the rest of the lines and slowly deepen all lines to final depth. Use a veiner chisel to finish the ends of the lines to final depth. A riffler can be used to straighten a line that starts to go astray, easier to do if the angle of the riffler is "sharper" than the checkering tools( a 60 degree riffler for 90 degree checkering). A 90 degree set of tools will make shallower diamonds that are stronger than diamonds cut with a set of 60 degree tools. Usually the 90 degree are more for using guns and the 60 degree sets for showing off "fancy" guns. Other than a good book on checkering explaining these details, a Gun Digest from the late 60's or early 70's will have a few pages of custom guns with beautiful checkering, one or two will have closeups that show the angles of the lines well.
The hardest thing to come by if you are an old fart, is eyes good enough to do the job. I still have my copy of Monte Kennedy's book on checkering, including some of his old cancelled checks.
Between bad eyes and arthritis, I gave up on checkering, especially since I can send out a stock and have it done for around $150, and have it back in under a week.
Definitely do some practice pieces before tackling a gun stock. I'm sure your wife would appreciate having her spatula checkered!
I’m getting closer. I bought a used Wilton Pow R Arm 301. I’ve got a 18 inch steel block off plate for water main that I was going to make a hanging target out of, but now I think I will use it as a base for a work stand. I’ve got to cobble together the part for the cradle Jim gave me. I’m going to dig through the steel scrap bin to see if I can find a stick of 2x4 heavy tube to weld to the block off plate and then glue a ring of stall mat to the bottom or maybe put three rubber feet on it.
I would say one of the most important things to have on hand if you are going to checker is a large bottle of whiskey. Brand is your choice.
Phil
If any of you guys run across any "Dem Barts Continental style stock and checkering oil", I would gladly buy a few ounces from you. I use this when the checkering on my nicer walnut stocks start to look "dry". I had a small jar, which probably would have lasted the rest of my life, but I recently dropped and shattered it. I have looked and looked online, but cannot find any. Have tried to contact Dem Bart's directly without any luck.
When I had checkering to finish, I just used the same finish that was used on the rest of the rifle. It can be thinned a bit if needed. You may just need some stock wax. The Birchwood Casey stuff works well, and is pretty much the same as renaissance wax, without the big expense. Apply, and work in with an old toothbrush, or your wife's.Quote:
Originally Posted by 6.5X284ever
Does anyone know of a source for Dem Bart cutters? Everywhere that I have checked shows out of stock and have for at least three years.
Doesn't Steve Earl make cutters for Dem Bart tools?Quote:
Originally Posted by bgmkithaca
I believe that the cutters made by Ullman Precision will also fit the Dem-Bart handles, and yes Steve Earl's cutters will also fit. Brownells, in Iowa, used to sell Dem-Bart and Gun Line checkering tools and Dem-Bart is no longer listed at all, and Gun Line shows out of stock on everything. I know that several years ago when I spoke with the gent that made Gun Line tools he was getting way up in years then.
Thanks, but if you click on those links, none of them are actually in stock or available. I was hoping someone might have a large bottle and sell me a few oz.Quote:
Originally Posted by ulav8r
This is really good - makes me a bit ashamed of my first go actually… ulav8r makes some good points, but they’re only layout errors. Your straight lines, spacing and depth are great for a first go.Quote:
Originally Posted by CastingFool
Here is my first attempt, finished this panel yesterday - an old 12g single Stevens. I’ll probably do one more beater stock before moving onto a “good” stock... I know my spacing is probably the biggest issue - at least partially caused by inconsistent depth when laying the lines out (cut some too deep), also the odd over run and I struggled to keep the border curve straight where the grip transitions into butt. Tools are Dem-Bart (I’m already panicking about where I’ll get replacement cutters) and a jointer I made from 1084.
I’ll really try and dial my spacing in on the next panel, and maybe use some electrical tape to help me get a smooth line (have a roll of Dymo label tape for the straight ones) but does anyone have any other tips?
https://i.imgur.com/Y5Pqfurl.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/CEBQnAIl.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/8PSnGIdl.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/xTcz6CBl.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/Gyytjazl.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/VVJGTVll.jpeg
I have a piece of a broken tape measure that I used to get a straight line around curves. It is relatively thick and only about a 1/4 wide. It is flat rather than curved like retractable tape measures, like the "tape" used in long, hand cranked tapes.
Looks like you are off to a good start. The checkering tools used to come out of Tacoma when I was a kid. Someone told me that once I get going and figure out what I will actually use to get a carbide cutter for those tools. Buy once, cry once.
thanks. Buy once cry once is true to an extent - but I generally work on “if I can’t afford it I need to make it”. Means I have no time for anything…Quote:
Originally Posted by JDHasty
thanks, that’s a good tip. Although my issue is more smooth curves, like this bit. I used dymo label tape for straight lines (not as much as I should’ve) so feel like that’s not such an issueQuote:
Originally Posted by ulav8r
https://i.imgur.com/LfHha6ml.jpeg