Engine light on

I wish I had my 1962 Mercury Comet back. I drove that car for 23 years and no engine light ever came on. Matter of fact it had no engine light. My Nesson Versa engine light is telling me I need a new mass air flow sensor. I tried taking out the sensor and spraying it with carburetor cleaner bit it didn't work. It has in the past. Auto Zone wants 130 bocks for a new one. I checked Rock Island Auto.
They vary in price from 30 to 70 dollars. I have never ordered anything from them or anyone else for that matter. Bummer
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Back in the 60' someone custom built a Mercury Comet with a Plymouth Valliant after both had been wrecked and called it a Vomit. It had a horn that sounded like puke.:redneck: Replacing parts is like trying to use cheaper ink in a computer. Sometimes they work.

I have ordered from Rock without issue and , IIRC, 1aauto. I would go with Rock.

Of all the failed/short life parts I ever swapped out, most came from Auto Zone.
If a OEM part lasted 10 years--- the replacement from Auto Zone lasted 5-6 months.

I'm not sure why, but Rock Island has a bad reputation also.

I get most of my stuff from O'Reilley's. It's OEM quality, and the prices are not great- but fair.
NAPA is good too, but our local guy sees me and starts looking at new trucks, or where he wants to go on vacation.
He sort of priced me out of his store.

did you actually get an EEC code for the mass airflow ? - IIRC using choke cleaner on them harmful + not recommended -

As already mentioned, carb cleaner is bad for a MAF.

Rock Auto usually offers a range of parts, from "Economy" to "OEM", and the prices usually run the range from economy to OEM being the highest (but not always). I buy a lot of stuff from Rock Auto and have had very good luck, but I'm selective about the brand of each specific part I buy, especially if it's electrical or sensors. And sometimes their shipping is a little high, especially if the order ships from multiple warehouses.

Good luck!

I had a ‘65 Comet with the straight six. It wasn’t quick off the line but could cruise at 90. Also got really good mileage, I seem to recall it averaged 20 mph around town and a bit better on the highway.

Re the MAF sensor, I typically buy parts from NAPA because their warranties are pretty decent. A few bucks more doesn’t concern me if the part works.

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Originally Posted by GOPHER SLAYER

I wish I had my 1962 Mercury Comet back. I drove that car for 23 years and no engine light ever came on. Matter of fact it had no engine light. My Nesson Versa engine light is telling me I need a new mass air flow sensor. I tried taking out the sensor and spraying it with carburetor cleaner bit it didn't work. It has in the past. Auto Zone wants 130 bocks for a new one. I checked Rock Island Auto.
They vary in price from 30 to 70 dollars. I have never ordered anything from them or anyone else for that matter. Bummer
.

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130 sounds cheap.
I wonder what the Nissan dealer charges to diagnose that and replace it?

I think that there is a special cleaner for the MAF sensor as regular carb cleaner is bad for it. I get most of my parts from NAPA and O reillys. Quit AZ when they gave me the wrong part but insisted that was the correct one (set of spark plugs). Got home and no way would work, so had to drive another 15 miles to get the right ones. Told them they owed me for time and distance due to their snafu. They just said "not gonna happen".

45Dude, You forgot to mention it had bucket seats

Yup, carb cleaner bad for MAP. Use the CRC stuff made for it.

either and maf cleaner are the same thing just relabeled. i have been ordering a lot from rockauto, took me a little getting used to worrying about ordering the wrong part, they make it pretty idiot proof and the prices beat napa and autozone and oriellys. most orders make it same week if ordered on a monday. they do try and trick you into the expensive shipping, go for the "mail" option, its dhl delivered by the usps and is usually the cheepest.

reset your codes and see if they come back, also unhook your battery for an hour or two, to do a reset on the computer.

Just put a piece of electric tape on the engine light to hide it….[emoji848][emoji16]


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I've had good luck with Rock Auto. After you replace it, head to OReillys to have the case reset. They usually do it no trouble.

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Originally Posted by HWooldridge

I had a ‘65 Comet with the straight six. It wasn’t quick off the line but could cruise at 90. Also got really good mileage, I seem to recall it averaged 20 mph around town and a bit better on the highway.

Re the MAF sensor, I typically buy parts from NAPA because their warranties are pretty decent. A few bucks more doesn’t concern me if the part works.

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Friend had a 64 comet with the 221 V8, lighter weight engine than the straight 6! It wasn't a drag racer by any means but had decent get up and go!

anything electrical i will only buy oem replacement parts for.

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Originally Posted by Texas by God

Just put a piece of electric tape on the engine light to hide it….[emoji848][emoji16]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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old timer that used to live buy me and was as tight as a drum picked me up in his f150 one day to give him a hand at camp. i noticed the tape on his dash and asked why it was there. he said the check engine light came on at 22k and the truck just rolled over a 100k. i asked why he didnt fix it. he said it ran fine. it did run just fine. said all hes done since new was a set of tires and an oil change every 10k. said the oil companys are the ones that brain washed us into changing oil so much. im just the oposite. my check engine light comes on and its parked till its fixed or id have an ulcer worrying about when it was going to leave me stranded

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Originally Posted by rockrat

I have ordered from Rock without issue and , IIRC, 1aauto. I would go with Rock.

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Rock has treated me well.

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Originally Posted by MaryB

Friend had a 64 comet with the 221 V8, lighter weight engine than the straight 6! It wasn't a drag racer by any means but had decent get up and go!

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I knew someone who had a Comet with the 289, and that car was pretty zippy. It also had power steering, while mine had the big "ship's wheel". Was fine while I was moving, but dead stop turns were a workout.

My check engine came on in my GMC PU, was the air quality sensor above the gas tank, $26 for the part but $450 in labor to pull the bed off to get to the gas tank. So 8 years later sold it....the mechanic asked why is that light on, air sensor above the gas tank, yep, seen a bunch of those.... That is OK, and away it went. They could have put an access panel in the bed, but no. Just more and more extraneous regulations crapola, less or more to verify the existence of some highly paid regulation writing federal employee.

Regulation writing Federal contractors, not employees, often have a money angle in mind when they write those regulations.
Had an S10 years ago that set a code for the mass air flow sensor. It was a v6, and a major part of the engine compartment wiring harness was too close to the driver's side exhaust manifold. Good way to melt wiring insulation and cause a short, and set a code. Was able to replace the MAF with an OEM part. Didn't help. A good mechanic at the dealership noticed the way the wiring was routed and suggested that , if the truck was running ok, to ignore the light.

Back before everything was computerized on vehicles, my solution was a piece of black tape over the check engine light. Worked well. Mechanics of the time told me it was the best solution! I don't know it I would try that on a newer vehicle.

Do a search on resetting the light. I have done it on my Dodge Ram with no problems.It usually involves turning the key on and off at different intervals, stepping on different pedals, scratching your head, wondering if you did it right. It can take several times.

Look here for easy fixes.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=reset+Ness...e+light&ia=web

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Originally Posted by gunther

Regulation writing Federal contractors, not employees, often have a money angle in mind when they write those regulations.
Had an S10 years ago that set a code for the mass air flow sensor. It was a v6, and a major part of the engine compartment wiring harness was too close to the driver's side exhaust manifold. Good way to melt wiring insulation and cause a short, and set a code. Was able to replace the MAF with an OEM part. Didn't help. A good mechanic at the dealership noticed the way the wiring was routed and suggested that , if the truck was running ok, to ignore the light.

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Same here ! Replaced engine(wiped a cam lobe) and ALL sensors . Check engine light still on . Fine here, but where my daughter lives, no inspection sticker if ANY bugaboo lights on . If oil pressure is good, engine ain't hot, and gas mileage doesn't go down, I'll keep ignoring it for another 200K miles ! In my case, in lieu of tape, a black target paster works ,

In the old days about the only thing that turned on the check engine light was emissions sensors. Black tape was an effective switch for the light. I used to remove the bulb from the instrument cluster as a better fix because my wife was convinced the engine would blow up when she figured out why I was putting a piece of tape on her car dash.

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Originally Posted by Maven

45Dude, You forgot to mention it had bucket seats

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Yes it did. Wonnderfull car.

Thanks everyone for your advice and tips. I really like the black tape idea. I should mention that the car runs great. Thanks again. What a wealth of knowledge we have on this site.

I bought one item from Rock Auto and was completely satisfied .
The part was the climate control module in a 2009 Mercury Grand Marquis it was still $300 but other prices were at least 2 times as much and I think the dealer was $1100! I also quickly got my core charge back when returning the bad part .

I looked at the can of spray I used, and it reads, Mass Air Senor Cleaner.

I bought a reader to plug in my Ram pickup to make sure the light wasn't anything serious.

You might need one of these:

[url]https://youtube..blah, blah, blah.....didn't work.

But its on you tube. Search there for 'entabulator'.

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Originally Posted by jimlj

In the old days about the only thing that turned on the check engine light was emissions sensors. Black tape was an effective switch for the light. I used to remove the bulb from the instrument cluster as a better fix because my wife was convinced the engine would blow up when she figured out why I was putting a piece of tape on her car dash.

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"Old days" ? You're just a young fella ! In the real "old days" there were no steenkin' sensors !! And life was good.

Yep, carb, points and ignition coil. Set the dwell on the points and good to go

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Originally Posted by rockrat

Yep, carb, points and ignition coil. Set the dwell on the points and good to go

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Amen!

Rock auto is good for most things. Watch out for thd shipping. Also items that have return cores charges are sent back on your dime for postage. That can make some items unattractive when total cost is considered.
I ordered a brake caliper that had a core charge. I saved $18.00 on price but had tp pay $10,00 postage to return the core.