Hi everyone,
My wonderful wife gave me a bag of Starline 7.63X39 brass for Christmas, for my SKS.
This is a new adventure for me so I'm asking you guys opinion on what cast boolit and load you use in your own SKS.
Thanks in advance.
Blkpwdrbuff
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Hi everyone,
My wonderful wife gave me a bag of Starline 7.63X39 brass for Christmas, for my SKS.
This is a new adventure for me so I'm asking you guys opinion on what cast boolit and load you use in your own SKS.
Thanks in advance.
Blkpwdrbuff
I run the Lyman 311410, roughly 130 grain bullet loaded with IMR 4198. I am pretty happy with mine at 1600 fps +/-, but overall there is not much bearing surface to pull off precision shots...good for target shooting.
LEE C312-155-2R 6 Cavity Mold
I use reclaimed lead from the gun club that is slightly harder than WW
I have used both normal lube and Powder coating
AA1680 works well for me
My SKS likes loads at about 1800 FPS
John
I have cast the 155 grain C312 Lee and shot them in an AR and an SKS no problem in either.
I had a Savage bolt action 30-30 that also liked that bullet.
The SKS has a gas port that is very easy to clean though I think it would get dirtier when shooting some of the surplus ammo from who knows where that was sold cheaper than cheap years ago. when the kids moved out some time back they took all three rifles with them and I still cast that bullet for them.
The 7.62 x39 is just right for cast bullets
The all time best boolit I ever used in 7.62x39mm is the NOE .129gr .314 sized down to .311 and gas checked/powder coated. It worked VERY well in both semi auto and bolt action. Don't have a single rifle in that caliber anymore, but I still have the mold.
https://i.imgur.com/gp3CuNi.jpg
I have two bolt action Mausers in 7.62x39, but both of them have .308 barrels. I shoot everything from the 120 grain Saeco #302 up to the 200 grain Lyman #311299 in those. In my SKS I have loaded everything from the Lee 155 grain bullet up to the 215 grain Lyman #311284. An SKS can shoot just about anything. You can either choose a .312" bullet mold, or powder coat almost any 30 caliber cast bullet and it will bump up the diameter to be a good fit for the 7.62x39. Best off if you choose a gas checked design of between 150 to 180 grains, which can be loaded without having the gas check below the case shoulder. A bullet with either a rounded or pointed nose will feed better. SKS's aren't too finicky. If I could only have one mold for use in 30 and 31 caliber guns it would be the RCBS 30-165-Sil.
One of the only downsides to the SKS is that it really launches the empty cases into the next county. When shooting steel case this is no problem, but when shooting reloadable brass case ammo it sends you on an Easter egg hunt to find your spent brass.
My prefered cast for my yugo SKS is the lee 185 gr gas checked over about 20 grains of 4895. Slower than the lighter bullets but with more punch.
I use now 165 pcgc Lee boolit with 18 grains AA 1680. Groups good for now. I use a Bear Creek upper with side charging. Nice thing so far is it puts the brass about three feet to the side with no dented brass.
Working on a BCA side charger too. Liking it so far but want to load down so I won't damage my steel. Have to do some more casting.
I started out using the Lee 155 gr. bullets in my Yugo when I got a 6 cavity group buy mould for it many years ago. It worked well but then after getting a CZ bolt gun in the chambering I decided to try out some different bullets.
I got the NOE 129 gr. Spire point bullet with a GC and also tried out a NOE Ranch Dog 150 gr. bullet. The NOE 129 gr. was a great bullet and became my standard bullet for 7.62 x 39. It shot great and functioned well in my autos. I intended to use the RD bullet in my bolt gun and it proved to be a great shooting bullet. I had no issues with the blunt profile and it hit the steel plates I shoot really hard. I thought it would be great if I could shoot it in an auto so I loaded up a dummy cartridge and tried it in my Yugo. I seemed to function manually so I loaded up some ammo to try and it worked fine with no issues. Not only did it work well it was accurate and like with the bolt gun it really smacked the targets but now I could send 10 of them at a time a lot faster than the bolt. Now I load both the 129 and the RD bullet for the Yugo SKS but the 150 is the primary bullet I shoot in it now.
In the PIC below Left to Right:
NOE 129 bullet with GC ready to be PC'd
LEE 155 gr. with GC and PC
NOE 150 Ranch Dog with GC and PC
NOE 129 Loaded
NOE 150 RD loaded
Attachment 321882
I too just really jumped on the x39 loading wagon. I've loading my first rounds using the Lee 155gr PC'd and Gas Checked over IMR 4227. I haven't shot it yet, as I've been dealing with a shoulder injury for about 3 weeks now. But I hope to get it out to the range before too long - depends on how long it takes me to heal up....
I use the lee C312-155-2R and the GB Lee 6 cavity version, C314-150-WFN, of the Ranch dog bullet. I load either over 27 gr IMR 4895 or 28 gr H4895 in Winchester and IMI cases with WLR primers. Both feed and shoot very well in my Russian SKS and Mini Mk X bolt action.
The SKS ejection can easily be tamed by venting the gas tube. I have posted how here numerous years ago. Can again if anyone is interested?
blackpowderbuff, The bores of Type 56 (spike bayonet) SKS's vary widely. If you slug the bore and throat of yours, you will have a better idea of which CB designs will work for you. My latest Type 56 requires a .315" (from memory; not near my loading bench and micrometer). None of the CB types in this thread cast large enough to fit, but Al Nelson at NOE mould had a C.E. Harris designed mould that works quite well (see pic below). As an alternative, the Lee Precision 8mm mould, can also be sized [down] to fit your bore, but it will be hard on you, your sizing die, and possibly, your bench as well. Btw, the Lee 8mm CB is the one on the left in the aforementioned photo.
I think some guys were just removing the piston. Is that what you're doing as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Gibson
No, I vent the tube to relieve the gas pressure reducing the piston velocity. I use factory/milsurp when doing this so the ejected cases are just reiably ejected. Then the heavier cast bullets with 4895 ejected reliably but not violently. The SKS still functions reliably as semi automatic.Quote:
Originally Posted by jdgabbard
Larry
The information on venting the gas tube would be much appreciated if you can repost it.
If not, just PM me the info.
Thanks,
Blkpwdrbuff
Larry, I would also be interested in seeing the information about venting the gas tube.
SKS GAS TUBE MODIFICATION
SKS rifles are notorious for their violent ejection of fired cases. This may be desirable on the Russian tundra at 20 below but for the reloader trying to find the brass it is intolerable. The following modification will allow the rifle to function reliably yet will deposit the brass into a small area to the right front of the shooter. It also will lessen the hazard to bystanders. Velocity of the ammunition used is not affected.
Use standard 7.62x39 ammunition or the equivalent hand load with 123-125 grain bullets when making this modification. The gas system of the SKS allows for more than enough gas port pressure to drive the piston back in the gas tube and cycle the action. This was designed this way to ensure absolute reliable functioning in extreme temperatures and conditions. What this modification does is simply to “vent” the gas after it has imparted enough motion to the piston to cycle the action without driving it so violently back. As this modification vents the gas rather quickly the use of other than standard ammunition to regulate this cycling may cause malfunctions then when standard ammunition is used.
Attention cast bullet shooters: if you want to shoot really reduced loads with light bullets then regulate it with that. With Lee's 312-155 or heavier bullets I've found functioning to be fine with the conversion made for standard factory or milsurp ammo. When medium burning powders (4895, etc.) and cast bullets of 130 – 160 gr are used and velocity is in the 1600 – 1900 fps range I've not had any malfunctions.
Note; I purchased an extra gas tube to initially try the modification on. It is still function on the Russian SKS.
To accomplish this modification, it will require the following tools:
15 drill bits from #45 (smallest) to #31 (largest)
Center punch
Small round file
Electric drill, cordless or hand drill if power is available at range.
Before going to the range remove the gas tube from the SKS and take out the piston. On each side of the gas tube center punch .22” back from the face of the gas tube. Center punch .35” back from the face of the gas tube directly on top. Now drill each with the #45 drill. You will now have 3 holes, one on each side and one on top. The hole on top will be slightly further back from the ones on the sides. Debur the inside of the tube with the file lightly and reassemble the piston into the tube and assemble it back onto the rifle. Load up the tools, ammo and rifle and head to the range.
Fire 5 rounds of factory or milsurp ammo and observe the ejection pattern and how violent the action cycles. Drill out the top hole only using one size drill larger at a time. Test firing with at least 3 rounds between each drilling. You must disassemble the gas tube each time to drill.
NOTE:
I have found on several Russian SKSs that with 2 side holes of #45 size and the top hole of #31 size they will lay the brass into and area of about 3 feet diameter about 6-8 feet to my right front when shooting from a sitting position. The recoil of the rifle is much easier to manage as the action is not functioning nearly so violently. A couple have required the 2 side holes to be enlarged to #40 drill bit size.
Several SKSs have required an additional hole .3” behind the top one to subdue the ejection of 150 gr bullet top end loads. With this tube factory 123 - 125 gr and equivalent loads ejects very softly right outside the SKS. Any reduction other than full loads (I use 22.5 gr H4227 behind the 123 - 125 gr J bullets) results in malfunctions. If the first three holes have not “vented” enough gas, then drill this 4th hole. Again, starting with the #45 drill bit and going one size larger with a test firing each time. If standard j bullet loads are going to be used with the same tube I suggest testing both between each drill size.
CAUTION
It is easy to get impatient and drill too much too quick without adequate test firing, DON’T!! You can’t put the metal back. If you do mess it up new gas tubes are available at gun shows and out of Shotgun News for a reasonable price (used to be anyway, not sure now in 2024). If you’re not sure of your abilities get one first and try it before messing up the original. I have not messed any tubes up using the above method. I have one tube (original Chinese tube that does fit the Russian with minimal fitting) that when used on my favorite Russian will lay the brass almost within arms reach.
The photos show my current 2 tubes. I have done quite a few of these for others but don't have photos of them. The first tube is the Chinese tube, and you can see the larger rear hole. It is the tube I use with my heavier 150 gr cast bullet loads. The rear tube is the original Russian tube, and it is drilled for J bullet factory, milsurp and reloads. Switching out tubes is easy and it's nice to have both so you might want to consider getting a second tube also.
Attachment 321899
Attachment 321900
Larry,
Thank you for the information. It was very enlightening.
One more question,.
Does anyone know how to print this out?
I'm more than a little computer illiterate.
Blkpwdrbuff
Start at the lower left corner of Mr. Gibson's post; hold the left mouse button down and drag across the screen (it will turn a shade of blue; you are 'capturing' the text/photos). When you have captured, right click and choose 'copy' from the dropdown. Open a Word document and paste the post. That's it! Just save to wherever you want.
Take a look at Mr. Gibson's 'sticky' concerning load development with the SKS; also look for Junior1942's work.
Thank you Larry. I saved this info as a pdf. This is good stuff to know.