Case gauges for checking final cartridges?
I started casting wheel weights using an NOE 133 gn 0.358 mould and sizing to .356. Shooting out of glocks (a variety). Predominantly, I have been seeing good accuracy and function from the gun. However, when it isn't right, it is really bad. Failure to go into battery and lodged to the point that working the slide doesn't work. I have pounded the cartridge out from the muzzle with a steel rod. Feels extremely sketchy, but not sure of an alternative.
With that said, I thought I would run them through a lyman case gauge. Some passed easily, some fell to the rim, and some were set back quite a way. I verified brass was sizing correctly ( it wasn't, so Dillon sent a new friction plate). I am now getting consistently sized brass, but still not getting cartridges that consistently pass the gauge. This is the same for both the square deal press set up and my lee turret set up. Overall length is not a problem.
So three questions:
Is it improper to use a case gauge for cast boolits sized to 0.356 since plated and jacketed rounds are 0.355?
If it is okay if the boolits do not pass the gauge, I'm still curious as to why some pass and some do not. I did dial in my taper crimp on the turret and dillon, but still don't get 100% pass. My goal is to understand where the inconsistency is, how to mitigate, and not run into failures that end range trips.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Having ready a fair but of the FAQ on the 9mm, I'm getting good shooting characteristics, but the inability to eject and failures to go into battery are very problematic to me, though they seem related. Are the tests that matter most the bullet slug diameter of the rifling and the brass after firing to alleviate my issues? The cartridges that passed the gauge shot very well and no evidence of leading in my g19.
As a follow up. I did look at brass headstamps and brass that failed, also had examples of passing. So fails and passes of blazer, win, fc, r-p. Need to check the brass i collected at the range as i don't seem to have cbc that passed, but a fair amount that failed.
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9mm Luger Trim Length, most important.
To much crimp will bulge the brass. A taper crimp should just remove the flare.
Range brass, at different trim lengths, some will get more crimp then others. I have trimmed some range brass that was over maximum length.
Lyman gauge- Read the instructions, again. It measures maximums. I use the barrel.
Dies make a difference. RCBS is my choice.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...9mm-luger.317/
The case does headspace on the case mouth. The trim length is most important. Dont over crimp.