Did the question get missed or am I on the wrong side of the country?Quote:
OK, so who do I have to speak to to get some of this stuff in Perth and what will it cost me in Ozzy dollars.
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Did the question get missed or am I on the wrong side of the country?Quote:
OK, so who do I have to speak to to get some of this stuff in Perth and what will it cost me in Ozzy dollars.
Hey Trevor, I don't know if this has been covered before, but how much do you pay for Hi-Tek locally in Australia?
At this point in time, It isn't actually being sold in OZ to home casters.
Maybe a PM to HI-TEK will answer your questions.
Well. the Bright Yellow did darken a bit when cooked.
It is now a Desert Tan colour (Light Caramel)
Any desert dwellers want a desert camo bullet coating???
Attachment 76400
Has anyone tried using this coating on gas check bullets without a gas check? Have a few molds that are gas check but don't have a lot of time to experiment right now.
Is it O.K to let them dry for a long while before baking? Like, can I just leave them out till I have 3 or 4 batches ready for the oven? Or is it better to bake as I go?
You can leave them after coating and drying until you have adequate to bake at one time.
Coating will not be damaged by storage if dry.
Generally, mots cast as much as they can, then, coat and dry well even if they leave drying over night, and then bake tray after tray until all is done.
When cool, re do exactly as previously.
It should all be fine.
HI-TEK
Great result.
Just to add some data, I had a reply from another test on the 2_extreme catalyst from a manufacturer.
Coated projectiles 158 grain, 360 diameter were sized down to 354 diameter.
Report was that this severe sizing did not damage the coating, left no marks at rear or projectiles, and sizing machinery was noticeably less stressed during punch operation.
Coating on long surfaces was perfect with no marks at all with severe deformations.
HI-TEK
prickett, I water quenched and 11 BHn alloy that will normally wq from the mold to at least 18. There was no change between coatings when water quenched.
When I posted about the pure lead boolits I am going to try I did not water quench them. I did the same 11 bhn alloy that I normally use.
I did discover one nice thing about the coating. If you have a mold that drops a seriously out of round boolit you can coat it and then size with no distortion to the driving bands. The alloy just moves around to where it should be. I did some boolits that were about .310" by .316" in a .311" push thru die and they came out .311" and round.
The coated boolits I heated to 375 degrees for one hour and then water quenched were originally 11 BHN yesterday, today they are 14 bhn and no change in the color of the coating and they passed the hammer test!
Leadman.
I have a heap of COWW and Pure lead. What mixture should I use to be able to WQ with this alloy mixture?
Thanks.
Why specify #7 shot? Chilled and magnum shots of all sizes I have known supposedly have arsenic trace and some small antimony content. The arsenic trace is just that and all it takes, it sort of sets off a cascade effect of crystallization; or some such rot as I have been told.
prs
Hey guys I need some help here. I'm doing my first hi-tek bullets in gold. They're coming out kinda rough and gritty. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
Try using a little more acetone, my first try resulted in rough bullets with the gold color, the coating needs to very thin for the first coat. The first try resulted in bullets with a grainy surface and not very smooth with deep brown grains and a gold surface.
The rough finished bullets still shot fine but looked a little funny.
I found two very thin coats resulted in a much smoother surface of the coating. Two coatings worked fine in 9 mm and 38 caliber bullets.
The small 9 mm, 95 grain bullet for the 380 auto was harder to get a smooth finish on the 158 SWC for the 38 Special.
The two thin coatings resulted in no lead in the barrel of 4 different guns the the loaded ammo was shot with.
BBQJOE.
If you are mixing 5-1-5 then yes, it will be a bit blotchy.
to the 5-1-5-mix. Add another 2 parts of acetone to take it to 5-1-7.
You will find that this will coat better.
I am currently mixing 5-1-10.
this allows you to use a lot more mixed coating into the bucket to swirl and get the colour into the grooves and gives better full coating, but you are still only using the exact same amount of resin and catalyst.
The bullets come out of the oven a shiny smooth finish.
Have a look at the desert tan bullets I put a photo of, they are smooth and shiny. that is the 5-1-10 mix.
Remember. it is far better to use too much acetone than not enough.
I have even mixed to 5-1-20 trying to get a blue to stop going dark green when cooked. the coating was perfect at this mix. just a shame the blue colour didn't want to play the game......
Popper. Thanks for the info.
If I was to add 6 COWW. 4 Pure and 1/2 pewter. Would this add enough copper (from the pewter) chilled shot is very expensive here. I have a shotmaster shot maker that has not been used for 20 years. I'm thinking of kicking it in the guts and making shot again.
I tried three thinned out coats. hardly left any color, but you could tell there was a coating on them. I loaded up a mag of 9mm, and proceed to lead the daylights out of my barrel. :-(
I think part of my trouble is the baking time. I'm going at 375° for 8-10 minutes. I'm also seeing them get all grainy if left in much longer, but come out gooey if left in much less.
Another question. When they come out of the oven are they dry or still tacky?
I guess today will be filed under miserable failure. What am I doing wrong guys???
This was three not real heavy coats.
Attachment 76494
The acetone evaporates very fast so keep it in a closed container before use and cap it up immediately after dispensing. You also may not be shaking the color enough. The solids tend to go to the bottom and want to stay there.
Have you tested the coating of your boolits with a rag an acetone to see if any color comes off. This is how you tell if you have baked them long enough. Preheat your oven so it is already at temperature. If you get no color to rub off smack the top of one with a hammer and see if the coating flakes. It should stay in place on the boolit.
Also when tumbling the boolits it only takes like 20 seconds. If you can feel them start to clump together you may be tumbling them too long.
My guess is your not cooking them long enough so the 2nd coat is removing the first and then resticking in a messy way. My first try yielded about the same results as your and was due to uncooking. Like posted above make sure after you coat them the first time to see if you can take some acetone and rub any color off.
That's exactly how my first batch came out, they melt easy and bees wax fluxes the coating out well.
1) Shake colour container longer with 2 marbles in it to get sludge up from bottom. At least 10 minutes.
2) Immediately after shaking measure out 5 parts colour and drop into pre measured acetone. 7 parts
3) Add catalyst. 1 part.
4) Shake new mixture for at least 5 minutes in a sealed container.
5) Add a tiny amount of freshly shaken mix to bullets in a sealed container. ie a tub with a lid.
6) Tumble with lid on, do not let it get tacky or try to scrape colour of tub walls by over tumbling.
or what happens is globules of semi dry product clumps together like in your photo.
7) Really let the acetone dry off prior to oven or the coating can boil also creating lumps.
8) I have to use 3 micro thin coatings to get the results I want.
Hi BBQJOE
Just wondering if you had seen the U-Tube video that shows and describes home kit coating application.
Attached is the details.
Main things to remember is, that mix things well, take paint, add catalyst and solvent.
Adding more solvent, only allows to coating to go over more projectiles. Do not tumble for too long, and dont try to tumble dry to coat as it leaves lumpy irregular surfaces which does not flatten smooth when baking.
Coating, should be done just long enough to coat surfaces, then dump onto drying mesh, and dont disturb.
Dry thoroughly before baking.
After baking, if not baked long enough, next coat will start to strip off previous coat and this also causes lumpy uneven finish which cannot be fixed easily, as you need to remove or wash off with Acetone, the uncured mess to start re-coating again.
After you bake first coat, test with solvent and smash test to see if coating has stuck.
If tests fail, then put back into oven for another 3-4 minutes. It is no use if first coat does not stick to reapply a second coat. Recoating wont fix first coat problems.
(From placing newly dried coated projectile in pre-heated oven, it should take about 10 minutes to get to right temperature to finish cure and bond coating)
HI-TEK
YouTube videos:
Part1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VevKJgHseWc
Part2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NU7PbbtbAtE
When properly cured, they should come out of the oven hard and slippery, (HOT).
Heat will not soften coating.
Thanks folks. Things I did. I took advice from a previous post and added a couple bullets to the coating bottle when shaking. I shook it well.
I tried baking at 375° for 8 mins, didn't seem to be enough. Tried 10, 15, and 20, no better results. I tried tumbling less. Tried using less, tried using more, tried drying longer.
It can't be this difficult, and I'm not that dumb, I know how to operate an oven. I've watched the videos. I'll watch them again. I so want this to work.
I saw a pic or a video of someone smelting down bullets coated with this, and there's no way if I smelted mine that there would be a thick jacket floating on top.
The bullets in the pic feel like they're baked with sugar with a crispy sort of feel to them.
I don't know if I'm baking to long, or not long enough. What do they look like when they're done in the oven?
One second they look like they're doing fine, the next they look bubbly.
I figured my first batch I might have put them into the oven too early. This last batch in the pic, felt dry and had no tacky feeling when put into the oven.
Standing by....tomorrow is another day.
Hi BBQJOE,
I think that you have just given me the clue, why things may not be working for you.
You referred to bubbling effect on coating.
This is telling me that there may be two possibilities going on,
1. Too much coating on first application. (possibly not)
2. You did not dry coating well enough before putting them into oven.
When considering item 2, solvent drying will chill projectile. This will attract moisture, and during the drying, coating also forms a skin, which does not let moisture/solvent dry adequately.
Placing them into oven at that point, will cause super heated steam vapours, which will prevent correct cure and bonding during bake and cause such bubbling effect as you describe.
First coat, only has to stain, and colour with fist coat is not important.
If possible, after first coat, raise temperature of projectiles about 2-3 degrees above ambient to reduce moisture pick up due to chilling occurring due to solvent drying.
(using a small fan forced heater will do the job but be very careful about flammable solvents and heaters)
Or simply, let it dry for much longer than you have previously.
Very thin stain first coat dries much quicker, and solvent/moisture entrapment is minimal.
Once you get correct bond of first coat, subsequent coatings should work fine.
HI-TEK
Thanks for the reply. Someone pm'd me and said they were using about a teaspoon and a half for each coat on 350 9mm's.
I was probably using like 2 teaspoons (or better) on 50. I guess I'm using way too much. I'll cut back tomorrow, and try drying much longer.
Of course this chatty Cathy will post results.
Thanks all.
BBQJoe..
1. add 2 bullets to your colour resin and shake for a good 5 minutes.
2. shake the catalyst.
3. empty bottle ready. Add 5 parts colour immediately...IMMEDIATELY... after shaking.
4. Add 7 parts Acetone and then the 1 part catalyst.
5. Put lid on the mixture and shake the schit out of it for 5 minutes. I use 600ml coke bottles with pop-tops on them. easy to add coating to the bullets.
6. Add about 200 bullets to the plastic bucket. lid is NOT needed.
7. Shake the 5-1-7-mix and Immediately add a dribble to the bucket of bullets. Replace mixture lid Immediately.
8. Shake the bucket of bullets and coating. Remember... you have to have the bullets and coating mixing around just like a cement mixer does. The bottom of the bucket should be wet with coating.
9. Keep shaking, swirling until the rattle of the bullets changes to a dull thumping. you will hear the change really easy.
10. dump the coated bullets onto your drying tray and shake the tray side to side until the bullets have leveled out on the tray. don't worry about them touching. it doesn't matter.
11. If you think there isn't enough colour on the bullet, then you have the coating just right. Leave them alone for at least 10 minutes. then warm them with a hair dryer.
12. turn on your oven and pre-heat to 200deg C.
13. place you bullets on the baking tray and spread them around to be even on the tray and place tray in the oven.
14. set the oven timer for 12 minutes. not 6 or 8. But a full 12 minutes.
15. when the oven turns off, remove the tray of bullets and let them cool. do not touch them until cool.
16. when cool. take 1 bullet. lay it in it's side on a steel base and smash it with a hammer. the coating should not flake off.
17. Take another bullet and get some acetone on a white cloth and wipe the coated bullet for 30 seconds and see if the colour comes off. if it does. place back into oven and bake for another 5 minutes. ( I have found 12 minutes per bake is enough).
18. When the bullets are cool, place back in the bucket and repeat steps 6 to 17.
19. when 2nd coat has cooled and has tested OK, Size and shoot.
20. Smile to yourself that you are now up to the same level of technology as we Aussies.
This is really piss easy to do. the biggest mistake is not shaking immediately before coating or not baking long enough or at a too low temperature.
To all the Newbies to coatIng I have had all the stuff ups possible the best tips I can give are follow Trev's instructs to the letter. Take your time and just like paintIng 2 thin coats are better than one clumpy coat
Looks like I found my problem.
1st I was using too much. Then I put a thermometer in the oven.
But secondly I had too much current loss using an extension cord on the oven. It wasn't getting much over 300°. Got rid of the extension cord, got it up to temp, and my bullets are looking beautiful!!!
Thanks everybody!!! Might have some pics later.
I have a question has anyone found a way to remove cured HI TEK coating? The reason I ask is the other day I turned down my expander die and got so terrible leading. Which I thought was going to be no big deal as it's happened before just not with coated bullets.
So I wrap copper around my old bore bore and knocked 90% of the leading out, the problem is I can't get the rest and what does come out seems to be really gold in color like the coating cooked to my barrel tho nothing comes out now but with a light it's easy to see. Tired shooter choice with no effect, Shooter choice with PB blaster, acetone, Ed's red, and 50/50 Hydrogen/vinegar but nothing but a pick seems to remove it so I'm thinking it's more coating then lead.
Any ideas on how to remove it?
Pistol or rifle? You may need to use paint stripper (might damage barrel, test in a inconspicuous place) lol. I am new with this product and I am curios to find out what caused the build up and how to get rid of it. I have only used Hi Tek with 9mm and it worked great, no build up or residue. I wouldn't think turning down the expander die would cause leading (too far with expander should only cause shaved brass from case when crimping)
Maybe coating was not fully cured?
To much neck tension undersized the bullets. I turned it down as in removed material from it. Not sure if it was fully cure but I still have some in the house I can test. But if it wasn't you would think acetone would take it out of the barrel unless it baked to the barrel. I haven't found anything yet that removes it.Quote:
Pistol or rifle? You may need to use paint stripper (might damage barrel, test in a inconspicuous place) lol. I am new with this product and I am curios to find out what caused the build up and how to get rid of it. I have only used Hi Tek with 9mm and it worked great, no build up or residue. I wouldn't think turning down the expander die would cause leading (too far with expander should only cause shaved brass from case when crimping)
Never heard of this before. I have has undersize 40 cal in a Glock 35 barrel leaded to the Schithouse. I used a Lewis lead remover to clean it out. the lead and the coating all came out with no problems. If the coating is in the barrel, do the choreboy on a brush trick. have it really tight in the bore, or get a lewis lead remover. I'd be inclined to fire a handfull of jacketed bullets down it and see what happens.
Let us know how you get on.
Does anyone use 99% alcohol instead of acetone
Fired 23 jacket bullets and all that did was give me copper fouling, not sure if it removed any or not. Also tired soaking it in hopes #9 for 10 mins and got a little black out and now it's sitting in acetone probably for a hour to see if that helps at all.
Can't say if it's coating or not at this point I was just surprised the amount of gold I got out on patches after the first round of cleaning.
Shining a LED flash light down the bore I can't see any color just gray/whiteish smears. Also there are no Copper Chores boys around here the best I have been able to do is take fine copper wire and wrap in around my old bore brush, that how I removed the leading so far. Any normal solvent based cleaners and the strong 50/50 haven't done anything except get some gold out.
Take it to gunsmith and let him clean your barrel Then pay up sucker! Then if you shoot hi-tek-supercoat you can have no more problemos.