marten
First off welcome.
there is a couple of good threads in this section for using drill bushings and dowel pins to make the derimmer die. You might do a search for 22 derim die to see what comes up.
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marten
First off welcome.
there is a couple of good threads in this section for using drill bushings and dowel pins to make the derimmer die. You might do a search for 22 derim die to see what comes up.
Hi
Can someone tell me what tap I need for this press(Aneats),what drill I need?
I know it's 7/8x14 tpi,but is it UNF or UNC?? That is to put BT Snipers swagging dies in it or any others I might get.
TIA
7/8-14 is UNF here is a cool link for you. http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-tap-standard.htm
7/8x14 is what it is. The UNC and UNF is just a designation of which set of taps to get out to find it. I do think it is NC, but if you ask for it by the numbers, you will get what you need.
If you're going to drill and tap the ram, my Corbin S press and many others use 5/8x24. That one I think would be NF.
Corbin taps their larger press at 1.5x12 and 1x12 - again NC and NF respectively. You would then use a bushing to reduce the existing holes to the needed size. The advantage to the larger top hole will enable you to stack the parts and drill/ream them out together - might yield better alignment depending on your machine and layout.
"I'm tapping the top plate for 7/8x14 reloading dies and the swagging dies"
That will certainly work well. Probably 90% (I made that up but might it might by close) of all reloading presses are 7/8x14.
Early presses went with a larger top plate threaded hole to accommodate larger (shotshell) dies, then used a bushing to accommodate the smaller (standard) 7/8x14 rifle and handgun dies. While my early Herter presses were done this way, I never had opportunity to use a larger format die.
I think that the Corbin CSP-2 press uses a 1.5" threaded top die (which would accommodate larger dies such as 50 BMG) I think their M dies are 1.5 inch - maybe someone who know more can enlighten this point - I've never seen or held any of these in my hand.
Keep us up to date with your progress.
Bob
BwBrown
I'll keep you all updated,just waiting to hear back from my mate about the steel(if he got it),so it is a slow process ;)
This is a great thread, it motivated me to start building one based off the Walnut Hill press I have from RCE. Its a bit smaller than the moster some of the others are building, but thats ok. I have a long way to go, but man this is fun.
Below are just a few quick pics on the mill squaring up the top plate in preperation for the grinder for some clean up work.
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...uild/mill1.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...uild/mill2.jpg
Clint
Hey cookie, how you doing?
Great work you are doing. Keep it coming.
Here is few pictures of my progress.
Will the roller brearings hold up to the pressure? McMaster Carr list the dynamic load at 1550 for a 1/2 x .687 needle bearing. I can go with a bronze bushing with a much higher load rating, It just wont be as smooth. Thanks Coleman
I'm not into swagging bullets yet. I'm building this press to reload my 50BMG cartridges. I'm fed up with the Hornady press I'm using right now. I'm hoping to get into swagging bullets in the near future.
I made my tpggle links .75" thick instead .50". The bearings I am using are Timken B-1212 that have a Dynamic load rating 4930 lbf. The ram has two of the Timken B-1010 that have a Dynamic load rating 3680 lbf each. If these are not strong enough for swagging bullets. I can always replace them with bronze bushings or build a second press using bronze bushings instead. I wonder if there is somebody here that could actually do load calculations for us and post it here.
I wonder why you would thing bronze bushings are not "smooth"? If you keep them clean and lubed, they are about as smooth as it gets. You could also cast them from babbit but I don't know if they would hold up to the force.
The little needles in needle bearings concentrate the force onto a very tiny area of the pivots and the toggle links that can cause them to make small dings in the parts that look like a washboard road.
Things that rock, work extremely well with bronze bushings.
I have worked for over 50 years on everything from giant ball mills that run in bronze bearings to 2 smoke engines which use roller bearings.
I would go with bronze with a zerk fitting.
Wow! This is great! Thanks for posting this! I just went out and got the materials for the plates today. I'm going to build one of these.
If I can make a suggestion, a list of screws, pins, bushings, etc... in the op (like you did for the steel) would be handy.
I put together a small parts list for this press:
5x Cup Point Socket Set Screw 1/4"-20 Thread, 3/16" or 1/4" Length
1x Cup Point Socket Set Screw 3/8"-16 Thread, 1/4" Length
1x Cup Point Socket Set Screw 3/8"-16 Thread, 5/8" Length
4x Grade 8 Alloy Steel Hex Head Bolt, 1/4"-20 Thrd, 1-3/4" L, Fully Threaded
4x Flat Washer 1/4" Screw Size
4x Grade 8 Alloy Steel Hex Head Bolt, 1/2"-20 Thrd, 2" L, Fully Threaded
4x Flat Washer 1/2" Screw Size
1x Bronze Sleeve Bearing for 1-1/2" Shaft Diameter, 1-3/4" OD, 1" Length
2x Bronze Sleeve Bearing for 1" Shaft Diameter, 1-1/4" OD, 1" Length
1x Bronze Sleeve Bearing for 1/2" Shaft Diameter, 5/8" OD, 1-1/4" Length
4x Dowel Pin 1/2" Diameter, 2" Length
1x Dowel Pin 1/2" Diameter, 3" Length
1x Spring (specs?)
1x Ball handle (source?)
If you aren't welding the toggle assembly:
12x High-Strength Socket Cap Screw, 1/4"-20 Thread, 1-3/4" Length
Am I missing anything?
For the ball handle, hobby stores sell hardwood ball knobs with a hole pre-drilled in them.
But, I haven't had any luck tracking down a spring...
I have been following this link for some time. Very interested in making a press for swagging.
Is there any interest in the possibility of obtaining a casting for the toggle assembly?
There is a foundry close to me and I am planning on getting a quote for casting the assembly. They have the capability to cast in 80k steel, the same as the Walnut Hill.
Really nice work.On your press design I notice that it takes a very long top punch holder. What is the reasoning behind that as it seems the longer they are, the harder it would be to machine hole thru them and also make them more flexible..
Nearly done! I've threaded the top plate and created the adapter plug since taking this pic. Just need to bend the handle and finish machining the ram.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ing/Press1.jpg
If I make a second press, I think I'm going to use bolts to assemble the toggle assembly. My mill is the smallest knee mill and it barely fit. I had to cut the 1/2" drill bit down and had to keep moving the table back and forth to change bits. Everything aligned in the end though. Would also use ground shaft instead of stress-proof as it required a lot of polishing.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...g/Press2-1.jpg
Still no luck finding a spring...
Looks nice...do you have any dies for it?
Thanks!
No, I haven't made any yet for it. I had just started toying with a few things on the Co-ax before I came across these plans. I made a simple de-rimming die for it:
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...g/P1060103.jpg
.22 WMR de-rimmed and sized, lead fishing sinker, sinker after being pushed through the die, one that I trimmed the flash off of and copper plated.
I made a spoon cutter from a carbide glass drill bit I picked up at the hardware store by grinding one side off of it with a diamond Dremel cutting disk I got at Harbor Freight.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...g/P1060099.jpg
Tested in in a piece of scrap material, then pushed a sinker into it with a piece of bar stock. It was undersized and lead flowed around it, but I ended up with a nicely shaped ogive and the finish was pretty good. No polishing was done to the "die".
Where do you get the 1 1/2-12 and or 1 1/4-12 to 7/8-14 reducer bushing?
For the bushing, check out Lee Precision, they use 1.25"-12 to 0.875"-14 reducer bushings on their .50 BMG Classic Cast press so the standard 0.875"-14 dies will fit. The Lee Breach-Lock bushing is not that size, though.
rl 1018
TRG22: I am impressed that you were the one that figured out to knock all the sharp edges off your press parts. Well done. Tools made from steel, especiallly heavy pieces of steel ,do tend to bite, and running your body into a sharp corner while working just ruins the experience. Also well done on the Torrinton rollers bearings,,, nice touch.
I have a Burr-Beaver chamfering machine I use on stuff like this, but the radius' are a better solution, and a corner rounding end mill is not a great expense.
This is the most complete and informative thread I have seen on this board, and the level of information on the subject is incredible. Anyone with the machinery can make this stuff as it is simple and strait forward. Especially with the excellent drawings provided.
I had not even considered making swaged bullets for a long time as cast do pretty much what I want to do. I was interested a few years ago, but the tooling costs and amount of tooling was prohibative. But I can build a press (when I get a chance) and since I printed the drawings for the Press along with the Revs, and the drawings for the dies as well, I might just get to this sooner than later.
Thanks to all contributors.
There was a guy on Ebay this week 11/22/11 that was selling a new made copy of what appeared to be a Dunbar Reloading Press, so the idea of producing a swaging press for those who don't have the skills or resources could work as a low volumn money maker.
Randy
Has anyone come up with figures?
or a kit of sorts?
Would somone be willing to do some machining?
Didn't kow if anyone had followed this up. If not I wil hit the local machine shop up and see what they would charge for doing the top plate, center plate and cams along with the ram. Basically a kit that would need some diy and maybe a few bolts or bushings.
u.p. north is selling them
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=129479
thanks. I must have missed that thread
Everything is in and I am starting, but I'm not sure why I would cut a 1 1/2-12 instead of a 1 1/4-12 ( In the top Plate). I have found the reducer for the 1 1/4-12 but not the other. I figured I could use the Hornady LAL conversion kit for reloading and the Lee bushing for swaging. Does anyone see anthing wrong with this logic?
I only want to cut this once.
sounds like a good plan to me its always easier to make it bigger than smaller. You can take metal out but its pretty tough to put it back when its gone.
Ok I know zero about swaging, had no idea anyone made a press to make jacketed. Still don't understand some of the nomenclature. BUT... This is now on my list of incredible things to do. Just spent hours reading the the whole thread, bookmarking sites, printing cut lists and plans. Most of my machine time is repair and replace parts on farm equipment and making obsolete gun parts. This is an incredible thread that may well have gathered another convert on the merit of the thread alone!!!
Is there enough steel in the top of the rams diameter to thread 1-1/4" -12? Considering LNL conversion bushing for the ram. Looks like it would make it mighty thin at that point but should be fully supported right???
EDIT; Hornady's description for the conversion bushing was incorrect. It is actually 1-1/2" so no, it won't work.
Root killer solution, a copper electrode and a power supply. It's fairly easy to do. There are some youtube vids of people doing it in a really crude way. To do it accurately, you need the correct current density, which is to say a certain amount of current per surface area. The figure I got from a chemist friends was 3.7-5.4 A/dm^2.
Ok,
I keep looking at the guide plate and was wondering if I should reduce the diameter of the top 1" of the ram by a 1/16 to give the guide plate a shelf to sit on or is the 3/8" bolt enough to keep it from slipping. I know there is not pressure on this, am I over thinking this?