Depends on what the liquid is. If oil based, yes. ... felix
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Depends on what the liquid is. If oil based, yes. ... felix
The label reads lanolin oil 100% pure lanolin.
Probably water, then. Lanolin is chemically a wax, and therefore must have some kind of "solvent" to be liquid. If they stripped some of the "wax"-making radical out for some amount getting an "oil", and then mixed that with the "wax" remaining, then, just maybe, they can call the whole-shootin'-match 100 percent lanolin. Anyway, water is always contained in the driest if lanolin anyway, so it really wouldn't make it too terrible to try and use what you have into a boolit lube. If it does not work as expected, you can use the stuff for black powder shooting. There, water stuff is much more tolerated, in fact desired. ... felix
Found this info on lanolin oil. Looks like it should work???
Liquid Lanolin Oil is produced from lanolin that is subjected to low temperature fractional crystallization to isolate the liquid esters of regular anhydrous lanolin. Lanolin oil is much easier to work with than anhydrous lanolin due its lower viscosity. It can be used in formulations where lanolin is called for but it provides a lighter texture with less drag.
Looks fine, and perhaps it would be better for higher concentrations than normal. Lanolin is used to increase viscosity in the lube, and this version of lanolin should make the viscosity more appropriate for the application. Lanolin also has the ability to lower the melt temperature of the lube when needed. ... felix
I have been reading this as it has progressed since I too am going to soon begin brewing my own. I make all of my own trapping lures and baits. I have been at it for years. I use food processors from the thrift stores for grinding meat to calcium chloride. I shred my wax for waxed dirt the same way. If I need to pulverize items to make them incorporate easier I use one of those little push button coffee grinders. Blenders work too but I tend to get them smoking rather quickly. Lanolin is also used in many of the trapping lures I make as a base. I use a lot of lard and Crisco as well; my problem is a need for it to be soft when it’s below freezing. The opposite of the problem faced here.
I know that this is an older thread, just felt that it was important enough to mention so that others wouldn't repeat my carelessness.
I ordered some Lar's bullet lube about a week ago because I wanted to try out some other than homemade lube on my bullets. I was notified about 3 days ago that my shipment has not been sent yet. Well, I've got some bullets that want to be shot. I can't abide their wishes without the lube, so I decided to use the recipe that all of the bullet (boolit) casting forums have been raving about, the "World Famous FELIX Lube". It takes about 45 min of cooking, mixing and stirring to make it.
I need it, so I dedicated the time to make it. I got a pretty nice looking batch of it made up and it was about 30 or 45 mins until I could put it to use, so it sat there during this time and the top solidified. Not a problem, we can reheat it in the microwave.
You and I both know that you never seal a container of any content and put it in the micro. Not thinking (one of my many refined traits), I saw that solidified microwavable bowl sitting there and I wanted it liquefied. Popped it in the micro and punched a couple of minutes into the controller and proceeded with other essential things-to-do.
I don't know if I heard the pop or just by happen chance looked over and saw the glass door covered, on the inside, with a coating of wax! The surface wax had cooled off and formed a perfect seal over hot liquid lube and it took less than 45 seconds to explode!
I spent the next hour trying to clean up my mess...
Didn't get those bullets lubed and it will probably not get done before I get the mess cleaned up.
EW
For cutting up beeswax into smaller quantities I used to use a grater. Hard work, slow and messy with lots of beeswax on my hands.
Now I put the block of beeswax in the micro on a low setting. Only to slightly heat the wax, not high enough to melt. It then becomes much softer and I can cut it with a kitchen knife into slices. These slices are more managable, they can be cut more easily when cold than the whole big block.
I just finished casting some Lee C358-158SWC bullets and got the gas checks on them in short order. But, I wanted to try felix lube again as it worked so well with my 300gr 45LC rounds.
Well, I found the box of supplies from before. Followed the original recipe to the letter. I found it easier to just take a mallet and crush a block of bees wax I had and then place 7oz of it into the pot than try and measure physical dimensions. I threw about 2 purple crayons worth in it as well for color and a full tablespoon of carnuba wax.
It made JUST enough to fill an 8x8 inch pan with 52 bullets (4x6 + 4x7 = 42) and then basically "pan lubed" them. This is where a "kake kutter" is a bit nicer, as you don't have to worry about losing lube out of the groves.
Anyhow, I have my "cake template" for 357 bullets all set to go. Anything hard-cast with gas checks deserves felix lube.
:castmine:
Hello,
I am new to this forum as a registered member, but I have been reading for a while.
Thank you very much for all the good information that helped me in different ways.
After all the good reviews and raving about the FWFL I decided to try it myself.
I got a used rifle in .45-70 as a present that wants to be shot and I have ordered 340 and 500 grainers (casting my own is unfortunately not an option right now).
Felix if you don't mind I would like to ask what you think of my alterations to your original recipe. If I understood all the comments correctly it should work.
I would like to replace the castor oil by pure jojoba and swap out the soap against cetyl alcohol. What do you think?
Hubertus
Go for it, Hubertus! Your application is not that demanding. Castor oil is for speed applications. Jojoba would act like an expensive viscosity decreaser more than anything, and that should be varied back and forth until you get the best accuracy for your load. Cetyl alcohol is an excellent emulsifier/surfactant and should work as well as a soap, and perhaps mo'betta' all around. Report your proportions when you get the perfect combo after testing, please. ... felix
I will report as soon as I have some results on paper.
Unfortunately time is scarce and I had to shift the lube production to tomorrow night. After that I will see how the load development goes with the new rifle, cartrigde and first ever cast boolit loads I will be shooting. Quite a number of "new" factors in the equation but we'll see how it goes. Thanks for the encouragement.
Felix...I have read the entire thread. I may need therapy now.:bigsmyl2:
Unfortunately, I am a tinkerer!
Would it hurt your lube to substitute Lithium Grease for mineral oil ???????\
How about adding just a tad of fragrant oil -- maybe a tenth of an ounce of lavender oil? My wife shoots 38-55. It may be a hoot to give her a scent with each shot.
Prolly won't come out as intended in terms of smell. If you add no more than a half teaspoon per pound of a concentrated trumpt-up fragrance or a natural oil, you should be safe and OK. ... felix
Thanks Felix. If I try it I'll post Susan's olfactory sensation observation.
ph4570, that would be a hoot. it would smell good in the loobing staging, but i doubt if the desired affect would be realized when the trigger was pulled. Lyman Orange Magic is a good example.
Well, smelling good in the loobing stage may be a hoot enough.
If you used an organic oil as a fragrance, would it have to be "polymerized" like the castor oil in order to stay in solution? If so, most esters lose their fragrance at high temperature, so it would smell good while cooking but probably not while shooting. Dunno, life is a grand experiment, maybe I'll try some. I wish I could cook the "ape's butt" smell out of Alox!
Gear
Gear, if the native molucules were too small for the remainder of the lube, then, yes, something has to be done, like heating. Well, if that is the situation, the smellies are sure to disappear. Use low heat when adding the purfume. ... felix