Thank you for the two photos, that helps a lot to clear up my understanding about what Crank is dealing with.
Best regards,
Chev. William
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Thank you for the two photos, that helps a lot to clear up my understanding about what Crank is dealing with.
Best regards,
Chev. William
Dating myself here (as usual) but does anyone know what happened to the company that used to sell blank K extractors? I should've bought a dozen of 'em but you don't expect good stuff to disappear...
Was it Sarco? GunParts? Been digging in old 'zines but haven't found it yet.
Hey Crank, I'm about ready for another fix. I've gone through all my active pastimes and now I'm starting to get antsy to see how your project is coming along. I'm beginning to start getting a little stirring toward the idea of making Project 616 into a two caliber gun by making a cylinder for 32-20. Anyway, what's happening out there on the Left Coast??
Froggie
In case anyone is interested in something like this on a Colt officer's Model frame- Numrich has a few .22LR cylinders for the Officer's model. Part #201310 $143.75. Think 25 Hornet in my case (- already gots a model 16 - kinda - .327)!
Sorry guys, nothing to report. I haven't had any time to play in the garage for the past couple of weeks, between the heat wave last week and an unending list of honey-do's, I haven't done squat. I have the house to myself this weekend and I plan on getting some ammo (.219 Zipper and .20 Tac) loaded up for a chance to shoot a couple of my toys that haven't been tried out and maybe even load up some ammo for the .25ACP rifle.
leftiye,
Funny that you mention that, I picked up an Official Police in .22LR and the thought crossed my mind. The problem is that the Officer's Models are not cheap, so that is a bit of a drag, however, the barrel is uncomplicated to machine from scratch since it doesn't have an underlug. The problem is that if you find an affordable one, you can only pray that the timing is not a problem. I love Colts, but when they go out of timing, parts are getting very hard to locate and very few gunsmiths still know how to get the timing right. I learned how to do it years ago, but I had best gotten it for a screaming deal to justify the work on any example that has worn/blown timing.
I will try to shoehorn some time this weekend to make a little headway.
Mark
Add to the Giggles; I now have 11 .32 Extra Short CF cases that need reaming to allow for bullet seating and they are "Cute little Buggers" that took using a Lyman Universal Case Trimmer with a power Trimmer conversion shaft, the Adjusting collar reversed on the shaft, and shortening the nose of the pilot I used. The thing about the Shaft is that it allows the collar to overhang the end of the polished portion of the shaft while the hand operated shaft has the crank in the way.
Because the cutter heads are screwed into the end, it is easy to change shafts.
Calculated Power Charges and Performance using a 31-090A 90 grain bullet and Titegroup powder in encouraging, 600 to 700fps out of a 24" barrel with 91psi or less at the muzzle making for a Quiet load that is useful for Short Range Target, Varmint, and plinking.
Best Regards,
Chev. William
I have worked on some Police Positive Specials, and Official police models, and a real buggered up colt is lossa fun! But you can find ossifer's modelos on Gunbroker without busting the piggy, and I haven't seen any bad ones. Actually unless the seller says it's faulty, just send it back as misrepresented. My biggest problem so far has related to shortening the top of the hand enough to allow rotation at all (cyl has to unlock before it can turn), and shortening the ledge on the hand too much (part that locks cyl in place to fire), and having it not make it to the locking detents. If one can get the transfer lever to unlock the cyl quickly is the key, I think. But if you buy one the seller says cycles correctly and locks up tight, then as long as the lug ends up in the detent, it's just about good. A little play in the lockup isn't bad, gun actually works better.
Crank,
Any progress on this project?
Chev. William
No progress, but not forgotten. I did however, locate and purchased, a GP-100 in .327 which is cooling off in gun jail. It won't invalidate this one, just keep it company.
Mark
I took ol' 616 out today and shot it at 25 yds using both 32 S&W Long "cat sneeze" loads and modest 327 loads (125 gr NOE LSWC over middle range loads of H-108) and continue to amaze myself with it. Life is good! :mrgreen:
Froggie
Hee-Hee! I have the GP-100 safely in my clutches. I need to find a smaller grip than that Hogue they come with. Don't worry, like I said, I am not shelving the S&W I am still trying to figure out what to use as a donor plate under the extractor and the best means of joining the two. I always try to figure out a way to keep my set-up time to a minimum and avoid making 10lbs of chips for a 2oz. part. On the lighter side, when I cleaned up my work area I found an antique 1885 Low Wall action that had gone missing and I am thinking a .32 Long could be a lot of fun. If it was a High Wall, I would definitely go with a matching .327 rifle. Not much else, just getting ready for more travel with work.
Mark
Mark
Froggie, do you bother loading the H&R at all or just go directly to the 327?
Stu
I only have about 100-150 rounds of 32 H&R brass, so I don't go out of my way to load this caliber since I have at least 500-750 rounds of 32 S&W and over 1000 rounds of 327, most virgin brass from Starline. About the only reason I see to use the H&R brass is if I decide I want to load an extra long (say, 140 gr+) and COAL becomes an issue.
Froggie
Wish I could clean MY bench and find a low wall...(sigh)...
OSBB,
Trust me, you may dream of it, but you REALLY don't want a work area like mine. Unless you moonlight as an archaeologist.:veryconfu
Mark
"Organized people never make the exciting discoveries I do." Anon.
This applies to my bench/life as well, Crank!
Okay, I just came back from the steel supply and I have a round billet of 304L that will be whittled on for the extractor. No promises, but I will see what kind of progress I can make today. I have been running all of the scenarios as to the best way to make this, so wish me luck.
Mark
Groan! I am exhausted, but it is done. Here is how it went. I machined a 2" disc to a thickness of 0.80" and drilled a .250" hole in the center. I silver brazed that disc to the extractor and then trued the disc to make sure everything was straight and true. I then drilled the pilot holes for each chamber in the new extractor, but I kept them undersize to allow for individual fitting. I machined the cylinder where the extractor sits to the thickness of the modified extractor. I enlarged the diameter to eliminate the irregular shapes that the factory uses and bring everything to a nice even circle. Then I reduced the diameter of the extractor until it would fit in the new recess. I tediously enlarged the extractor for one chamber to act as a guide for all of the rest by using an empty case to keep play from being an issue. I cut/filed/polished the other five chambers and now 6 factory rounds drop into the chambers. The new extractor looks dirty in the pictures, that is because of the brazing, I will see if I can find a bead blaster to clean it up eventually. This is the short version of about six hours worth of work.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps7bc478d0.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps558b6e1f.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps861db87b.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...psf4f5d8c9.jpg
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps42292dc4.jpg
Obviously I was lucky to have my spare cylinder to illustrate the before and after. I also pulled the barrel and deepened the forcing cone, but the cutter I bought is bad and leaves a groove, so I had to carefully polish out the tool-mark and smooth the forcing cone area by hand. It should be good to go.
That's all folks!
Mark