That looks a lot like mine…….primers right beside the powder. I'm glad I'm not the only one that does this, I don't feel so bad now. Nice setup though! Real nice bench.
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That looks a lot like mine…….primers right beside the powder. I'm glad I'm not the only one that does this, I don't feel so bad now. Nice setup though! Real nice bench.
If you can find an old Auto parts house, they may still have there old card directory's. thats where i got mine.
Sometimes you can find an old library card catalog that would work also.
Just think how many reloading dies you could store with these cabinets...
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...rd_catalog.jpg
This is my reloading "corner" of the garage. Needed something compact as I had very little room to spare unless I did a major layout change. Picked the cabinet up on CL for $50 - it was exactly what I was looking for. Notice I have mobile lighting as well, but this setup works real well for me.
On the opposite side of that wall is a fold out table top where I do all my casting outside.
Attachment 131514
Attachment 131515
Attachment 131516
I use library card catalogs--lots of drawers, real wood and were free to haul away from school.
Attachment 131847
Here is the bench I finished tonight. Spent a lot of time thinking about it.
I have taken some health and safety courses and participated in several kaizen and other movement and motion studies.
Hight is very important and most benches are low to me standing 6' 2". The top on this bench is 33" tall.
I have seen with many (including myself) that a work bench is typically used only at the front 12". The rest typically collects junk. Shelves and cabinets suffer as well. Any thing over 8" invites have items lost because they are pushed to the back. Many shelves are to far apart wasting space as well
For these reasons the top is 17.5" deep by 60 " long. It's 3" thick made by laminating 12 2x4 on edge together. 2x4's are planed on both faces and glued together a few at a time. After all are glued I used a power planer to rough the top and bottom flat and then hand planed the top smooth.
Attachment 131848
The shelves are 6.5" wide and 6.5" between each shelf. I found this perfect to fit 2 high 30220 akro bins, 3 high 50 round pistol boxes(45 colt), a 500 box of bullets, or a 1 pound bottle of powder(imr, hodgen).
They are southern yellow pine 2x8's planed down to 1" thick and ripped straight on both sides to 6.5". The back is 1/2" acx. More to keep stuff on the shelf. The shelves are dado into the sides and glued/screwed together. Before the ply was installed the shelves supported my 220lbs standing on them. They are not going to sag
Attachment 131849
The the left side has a rack for my dillon 650 heads. I glued 5/8 thick by 1" wide oak strips onto the sides. There are six slots and each if required can hold two heads if you put the flats together on the heads. I only have 4 heads now so the bottom slots have my brownells screwdriver set and a lansky set and calipers. The back piece of ply is glued and screwed on and over hangs the bottom by two inches. The bottom front is drilled on the under side and a 1/4" threaded insert is installed. Holes drilled in the top allow 3.5" bolts to be installed from the bottom and screws installed through the ply into the back edge of the top but not glued.
Base is mortise and tendoned 2x4's doubled. A pair of 1" dowel is inserted into the top of the base. The top is drilled with matching holes and is set on the base. The base weighs 50~, the top maybe a 100, and the shelf 75. All comes apart for easy 2 person transport.
On the right side is a roughed routed out area. An 8x8 " quick change bench plate will go there of my own design. I pick up the plasma cut plates tomorrow and need to do some minor machining. It will hold my shotshell press, single stage, or a vise.
Will post when complete.
You did good firebrick.
Navyvet: I like to take something free or real cheap and make something useful out of it. Funny thing is that I got a call today about some more library card catalogs that I need to go look at. Seemed to think I could have them for hauling off.
Recycle and reuse someone else's junk--I am not tight, but I squeek when I walk.
Firebrick, that Dillon tool head cubby is slick!
Attachment 133294My bench after cleaning and adding a new press.
I'm just finishing up an actual indoor bench that did not start out life as a bar stool. Which does work if you pile enough lead on the bottom. The steel welding/smelting table in the garage is not really at a good height and the dear wife had me replace the two sheets of OSB she used for tap dance practice in the basement. Hmmm two sheets of OSB? Haul them up or haul some 2x4's down?
My issue now is figuring out do I want to go with a shelf & cubby approach to the back or the pegboard approach. In looking through this thread I see a lot of nice cubby and shelf type arrangements, but also some that use peg board to good advantage. Which would you do if your were building this?
These are the plans I used http://www.instructables.com/id/Simp...den-Workbench/
Looks about like this except that I used OSB rather than plywood. 1/2" with 1/4" running cross wise (1/4" was to join sheets for dancing on)
Attachment 134937
This is what it might look like with peg board. Without all the tools of course.
Attachment 134938
I'm figuring I'll use mounting holes with wood bases so I can swap equipment out. Probably two stations. Single stage & powder dispenser or Lee Classic turret press I may swap them out just so I can leave the bench more open. I may add some corner braces at a 45 * coming off the back legs to the lower shelf. Both for more rigid frame and so stuff does not "sprawl" out the sides.
My biggest question is do I want to spend the money on board/lumber for a set of shelves / cubbies along the back or buy the peg board. Wife won't be happy with me if I leave this thing unfinished in the basement for too long so I'll be doing something pretty darn quick. Something about tools and sawdust she has to wade through when she goes down to practice dancing.
Roger,
Consider sinking a 1/4" steel plate into the workbench (or bolted in from the bottom side) rather than "mounting holes". Reason being, those mounting holes never seem to be where you need them after planning their "universal location". Plans change after a year or two.
But with a plate, you can put a mounting hole anywhere. Drill anywhere needed with a 13/64 drill bit, then drill through the wood with a 1/4" or larger bit, stopping at the steel plate. Tap the steel 1/4-20 and you are good to go. Or whatever size threads you want to use. I usually pick 5/16 or 3/8.
8x8 steel plate or 12x12 is just right. And if you swiss cheese up your tabletop too much (not gonna happen) then you can always drill a standard size over the holes and put dowel plugs in.
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My bench gets shelves. I just never grow into peg, and everything gets dusty. I also dust my shop with a leaf blower, and peg has never facilitated that process as well as proper cubbies.