Brylcreem? Afro-sheen?
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Brylcreem? Afro-sheen?
I didn't put that much into my water- I will try increasing it today.
Mold will definitely grow in the Fresh Fruit mixture- there is sugar to feed on, besides the citric acid. The silicon dioxide is just super fine "sand". Pure quartz ground up- neutral effect, but it clouds the water some.
Since the solution is biodegradeable, I am dumping mine around my blue berry bushes. They need the most acidic soil around, and this waters and acidifies at the same time! :grin: They haven't produced very good in past years, and I think that is the issue.
Making a gel mixture? Maybe the moisture absorbing gel crystals that they use to put in glass bowls for plants to grow in would be good. Probably much similar to those found in diapers. Craft stores should have it, I'd think.
Greetings group: Today I was at Walmart looking for some Lema shine I found it ,it was $4.oo a jar . So I didnt get it,instead I bought some cheap Great value leminade drink mix like cool aid for 10 cents a pack,mixed it with 2 quarts of water no sugar. Put in a 1918 FA case with 92 years of tarnish on it in 5 minute you could see a change in 20 minutes the tarnish was gone. That worked so good I'm gona pop some primers out and see if it cleans the pocket and insides. Looks like citric acid at $5.00 for 4 oz would make about 8 gallons of mix, $5.00 worth of Walmart cool aid makes 25 gallons of mix. Not only that when your done you can strain it though a coffee filter ,add some sugar and you got lemonade, now thats recycling:-) ---Turk
On another test mixed 1/2 peroxide 40 volume with 1/2 vinegar,removes lead real good . used some of this on an AK copper coated steel case in 15 minutes it ate all the copper off,that was yesterday and the case hasn't rusted yet so I dont know if thats a problem or not. Turns lead to mush.
Warning:
Mixing hydrogen peroxide and vinegar produces peracetic acid. Peracetic acid is very corrosive to some metals. It is definitely not safe to use on brass or copper alloys, and will damage carbon steel and galvanized steel. When it breaks down it will leave an acetic acid residue on metal surfaces. Be careful.
Dont intend to use it ,just playing around,thanks for warning--Turk
Back in the day, city bus windows were a good source of afro sheen. Times change though...
If I get time (haha) I'll try the Jello and maybe poke around the hobby store. Thanks again.
Paul
I am going to try a pack of cool-aid next. That would get rid of the sugar, etc. in the mix. I tried the extra strength mix of 3 tblspn to a gallon- it worked better. Trying it on tools right now.
Been looking at this thread for awhile and I got ? I see it works best if hot could I use a old coffee maker adding water to tank letting it run just like making coffee? I know that would work to heat the water adding acid in pot but could i run the mixture in the tank to reheat ? I was thinking glass would be better then a pot to heat the mixture back up in.
I've thought about that too-- it's not a bad idea. Citric and/or acetic acid is used to de-scale coffee makers, so if one ran the solution through the tank it shouldn't hurt the machine. The glass pot is ideal, and the solution would be very hot. Seems like it would work fine.
The only concern is that the citric solution will pick up copper from the brass, and copper is not good to ingest too much of. So, if one ran the solution through the tank, one would probably not want to use a coffee pot still used to brew coffee. And your coffee would taste like brass! ;-)
Plus, always add acid into water, never add water to acid. That can risk a splatter of hot acid, as there is a chemical reaction that generates heat whenever acid and water mix. This is just a basic precaution when working with any acid. So, when mixing the solution, one would want to heat the water first, and then add the citric powder to the water in the pot. Good luck!
Sagacious when the coffee pot gets into my hands its not used for coffee or anything to digest anymore. Melting lube is what i been using the pots for just went to a hot plate and the coffee maker got put to the side just in case. So I guess iam going to pic up some critic acid and try it out in the coffee maker.
Sounds good, that's what I figured. Let us know how it goes.
Just use it to heat the water, then add the citric acid powder. You should be able to mix more into solution- called supersaturation. Once it cools, it would fall out of solution, if that was possible for it.
I don't think the Fresh Fruit powder works as good as the pure powder. I've mixed it at 6 tblspn per gallon today, and it is working faster on the rusty tools now. It took a double dip in the bath to get some really tarnished brass to clear up, and a longer wait. Showing some progress, but the Evapo-Rust had the best effect so far on tool steel.
Wow, what a great thread. I look forward to trying this on brass. I am sure there are many hunters reading this thread that may be interested in yet another use for citric acid.
This is from the Alaska Hunting Regulations booklet (2010-1011) page 23.
"Once all the meat is hung, remove the bags and spray the meat with a citric acid/water solution. The meat should be sprayed until the mixture begins to run off the meat. About two ounces of citric acid for each quart of water will do the job."
"Food grade citric acid can be purchased at most pharmacies or feed stores. The citric acid will slow down bacterial growth that spoils meat. It also creates a dark outer "crust" that makes it harder for flies to lay their eggs on the meat. Don't worry about the citric acid mixture getting the meat too wet. the mixture will dry quickly."
RickK
question: I have an aluminum griddle on our old sears gas kitchen range that is very difficult to clean. Would a citrus acid bath work on it?
RickK
As far as I am aware, citric acid should be safe to use on aluminum.
I would mix a hot solution of 2tsps citric per qt water and try an overnight soak. Put the griddle in a large non-metallic container of the citric solution, and be sure that the entire griddle is completely submerged. If it works, the residue should lift-off, or soften/dissolve and be easy to scrub off with a nylon brush.
If you try it, let us know how it worked. Good luck.
Wow, I'll bet this stuff cures cancer too!
:D
(deleted incorrect MSDS, see Post #304)
I've been using this as an aluminum cleaner for about a decade. Some of the aluminum coming off the machines is pretty grungy, and this stuff is effective.
The MSDS is silent as to its specific ingredients (other than to note potassium hydroxide), siting the non-disclosure of trade secret loop-hole. But I want to say that it acts and feels like citric acid (low pH is disclosed). Perhaps someone can infer more than I can from the above MSDS.
"trade secret" --- high pH (13.1), definitely not an acid -- contains >5% potassium hydroxide, probably the active ingredient.
High pH, not low, Wally, or did you post the wrong sheet? Or am I missing something....
No, you're not missing anything. They've substituted an entirely different product under the old stock number I have. I took the stock number from a 32 oz. spray bottle I have in the shop. Evidently, they don't offer that packaging any more and have reused the old number.
The bottle of cleaner that I have here is labeled "Low pH".
Found it under a different packaging:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS0...3-20090213.PDF
I really don't like change.....
In wandering around the Ponderosa, I spied a brass ashtray that had been outside for at least 4 years. (You know where this is going, don't you.)
This whole process, from solution to pictures, took two hours.
Sorry, I'm figuring out some photo upload issues.
Part Deux:
After an hour and a half soak (brushing out the bottom but not scrubbing anything). There's that tell-tale reddish-copper color indicating some zinc loss.
Wow, looks like there should be a genie hiding in that thing!
The zinc was lost during the formation of the tarnish-- it's removal made for the previous deep coppery patina. Looks good now, even without polishing. That matte glow is pleasing to the eye.
Since these parts won't fit in my Dillon 2000, I polished a bit (about 4 minutes effort) with some Brasso to mimic the polishing effect of the "tumbler":
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...0/DSC_7792.jpg
I struggled a little with posting photos because the were of vastly differing sizes (I think).
If that thing can be cleaned by this process....
My case sorting rule is that if the coppery color is removed by tumbling, I keep the case. If it's still there after tumbling, it goes to the scrap bucket.
Two hours from start to pics!
(pretty cool old-fashion parting tray ashtray)
Yeah.
I almost left it in the patinated stage, but I wanted to make the point about the brass.
Maybe I'll soak it again and leave it that way.
The genie comes in handy. Lights my ceegars.
Wow, Wally, that's a big switcheroo. I'll be reading labels and tech data sheets carefully from now on.....
Yeah! Me too.
I've been using the low pH stuff for a long time, same stock number, same supplier (MSC), so when I dialed up the number, I didn't even bother to check that it was anything other than. :shock:
Of course, now I don't have to buy any more of it...or either. [smilie=p:
Thats amazing. Nice job.
I'm surprised MSC re-used the stock number for a dissimilar product. They call on us, I will ask the rep. He won't know but maybe he'll pass it up the hill to someone who does.
I've accidentally done enough industrial purchasing over the years to get to know a few folks at Grainger and MSC.... a dissimilar product sub doesn't seem like them.
That's why I didn't scrutinize the MSDS more closely. When I went back to replicate my results, I couldn't. No MSDS is offered for that number. However, if you click on the 55gal. drum the correct MSDS displays on a pdf.
The MSC # on the bottle of Global Diversified Products (sounds like the Federation of Associations), "Aluminum Cleaner GDP 8007...LOW pH" is 00352765.
It may be that they have discontinued that size. I don't know what I did to come up with that first sheet.
I've been doing business with MSC for my one man operation since prolly 1995 (?) and I agree with your take on it. I must have gotten side-tracked. That's easy to do around here.
Has anyone tried Copper Glo,its a bar keepers friend product that says excellent on brass.Tarnish removers(citric acid,sodium chloride),polishing and anti-tarnish agents.Contains no phosphates.Enviro friendly and biodegradable.Got a 12 oz. can for 1.59 at grocery store,wonder if it would work without any problems.Says it works on SS,bronze, and chrome also.
Today, I was a Kmart and picked up some lemonaide, I put some range pickup brass in it after heating the CoolAid in the Mico til it was just about to boil. I then poured in the brass and set it outside 100 degree temp for 2 hours. Picture #2 is what I got after hand wipeing dry. FYI
Attachment 23381
Attachment 23382
I tried the copper glo and it works well,turned the brass like new,the sodium chloride isn't table salt but read it had sulfamic acid in it.If the stuff that's in it is OK it cleans up brass real well with not much effort.Dried the brass off and put in tumbler with nufinish car wax.Brass came out shining better than new.There is a metal polish from citrus magic called brilliant metal cleaner,they claim its the best brass polish there is.I think it used to be called brite boy.Wonder if it is worth a try.