2 paint 1 hardener .5cc hbn.
No thinner!
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The Klass Kote web site says 1:1 ratio of paint to hardener. The 2:1 ratio (and hbn) came from the Youtube video that used a different type of epoxy paint. I'm surprised there is enough hardener in a 2:1 ratio for Klass Kote. I guess I'll have to try both to see which works best.
I want to try 1:1:1 hardener/paint/thinner and three thin coats and the VHT.
Dr.Evil, just to be clear, you like the 2:1 better due to ease of application and/or smoothness of finish? It sounds like you haven't yet tried the 1:1 to see if either one is more durable than the other?
Sorry for all the questions, but just trying to get my ducks in a row before my paint shows up, so I can hit the ground running!
2:1 with hbn sized fine and looked good. Also it shot well. I find both 2:1 and 1:1 to both be messy since its wet paint. I have not shot 1:1 yet but it looks thinner. However with the 1:1 i used wax paper instead of it just being on hardware cloth. With the 2:1 i used just hardware cloth that a made into a basket. I tried wax paper on 1:1 cause i heard they don't stick to it when initial drying. Since they rolled around on the wax paper, some of the paint may of come off and which is why it looks like it got a thinner coating. Im thinking a basket made of hardware cloth screwed on top of a vibrating media tumbler will keep them from sticking together and wax paper wont' be needed. I need to test this out when i get my vibrating tumbler back.
Any no worries about asking all the questions. Thats what this place is for. I have learned allot from every here by asking questions.
Shot some more KK 1:1 boolits this morning:
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7646a507.jpg
These were 158gr pushed by 11.5gr of Accurate #9 for a nice mild magnum. Some nice full bore 2400 loads will be next. I suspect the results will be the same.
Just an FYI, the thinner is intended for spraying KK. The amount, up to 1:1:1, is dependent on ambient temp, and humidity. The hotter it is, the more thinner, cuz it's evaporates off quickly when it's warm out. For our purposes, it may not be necessary, I think it would depend on technique.
Ah, I didn't realize that was for spraying. I assumed it was to be able to achieve the thinnest working coat possible so you don't goop it on too thick each time. Either way, I stopped thinning.
I did mean two parts paint to one part catalyst. I think I've tried all the combos I can think of and 1:1 paint to catalyst works for me just fine. I have some 1:1 coated Lee 175gr sized at .323" loaded up with 32.5gr of IMR 3031 for testing if I can get a rain free day at the range.
Obligatory pic:
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4e54738d.jpg
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...psd284d71f.jpg
I'm not having much luck with anything rifle. Handgun yes, rifle no.
I think unless someone else proves you can get coated rifle boolits to be accurate without gas checks then I'm going to call a halt to burning up components for now... I was going to load up some of the same with gas checks on them but that's the largest reason I wanted to do this. I can make at worst a fist sized group with that rifle and lubed and checked lead but NONE of my coated has worked so far.
Tried Klass Kote for two batches. Both appear to be failures - and I haven't even shot them yet. Batch 1 used 1 : 1 : 1 paint/hardener/lacquer thinner. Applied 3 coats, cooking each 200F for 20 minutes. Batch 2 used 1 : 1 paint/hardener with no thinner. Applied 2 coats, cooking each 200F for 20 minutes. Sized both batches and quite a few sized down to the lead.
So far, I'm not feeling the love for KK. The paint is very thick and messy compared to PC or HT (as well as the first of the three treatments to size down to the lead).
BTW, I applied immediately after mixing. The instructions say "For the best possible results, be sure to allow the two mixed components to induct for 30-40 minutes after mixing but before thinning and application.". Do you guys wait 30-40 minutes after mixing to apply? I'd bet my paint was dry 30 minutes after mixing. Am I misreading/misunderstanding the instructions?
MaxBob54 I get 1" @ 50 in 308, PC & GC. I tried plinker loads in 30-30, using the 308 Cb, 165 GC design with and W/O checks, using H-T green. Accuracy was the same, ~2" @ 50. Very close to RD PB accuracy with the same load and normal lube. Going to do some PC testing , same Cb, same load, double the antimony. If that is good, I'll cast some RD311 GC and try them, W & W/O GC. Best I can tell with any coating, the alloy must be up to the task.