Ignition module grease will work.
Printable View
Thermal grease is primarily used in the electronics and computer industries to assist a heat sink to draw heat away from a semiconductor component such as an integrated circuit or transistor.
Thermally conductive paste improves the efficiency of a heatsink by filling air gaps that occur when the imperfectly flat and smooth surface of a heat generating component is pressed against the similar surface of a heatsink, air being approximately 8000 times less efficient at conducting heat than, for example, aluminium (a common heatsink material).[15] Surface imperfections and departure from perfect flatness inherently arise from limitations in manufacturing technology and range in size from visible and tactile flaws such as machining marks or casting irregularities to sub-microscopic ones not visible to the naked eye. Thermal conductivity and "conformability" (i.e., the ability of the material to conform to irregular surfaces) are the important characteristics of thermal grease.
The parts were ordered from Auber Instruments and are the part shown in the post by Shotgun Lucky. I do have an old computer that doesn't work anymore ,blue screen and old, that perhaps I can take the fan out of. I could put some air holes in the case and mount the fan it to the side of the case. I will be using this for a Lee 10# and a Lee 4-20 bottom drop pot.
Welcome.
Mariusz from Polish.
I present my kettle Lee and PID.
Several images.
http://bron.iweb.pl/album_pic.php?pic_id=1648
http://bron.iweb.pl/album_pic.php?pic_id=1649
Factory regulator must be removed
http://bron.iweb.pl/album_pic.php?pic_id=1650
Price: $ 25 + $ 1 housing
Max temperature. 800'C
power supply 240V
K-type thermocouple - complete
Melted at over 150 pounds of lead.
Sorry for my language
Greetings to all
Language is great!
And welcome to here! :drinks:
Welcome.
Lead has a color because it heated up to 580 degrees Celsius. Test PiD
A composition in percent: 95 - lead, iridium 3, 2-other.
A lead from the year 1930.
It was founded on the roof of the church. I have about 2000 pounds
I use it on my Volunieer bullets to .451 PH.
And colleagues on the ball revolver
:drinks:
I was hoping to find a DIY "kit" to build a PID controller for my lead melting pot, and possibly later a lubricator heater that was mentioned in this thread a while back; but failing that, I'm starting to order the components individually. At Auberins web site, I saw two PID controllers that look like they could do the job. One has been discussed in this thread: SYL2352, and I'm sure it will do fine. The other: SYL2362 is called "universal" and I just wondered if it offers any advantages over the 2352? Thanks, Ed
http://jconninv.com has kits as well as assembled units available. I have a SYL2352 and it's a gem. Looks like the other one does what it need to do also. I'd recommend you purchase the little socket panel for your TC for sure as you will want to be able to plug your luber heater in also. And the plugs naturally too! Mines set up that way and it's very handy. That web site is Frozone's and he also carries those plugs and panels as does Aubers. Either place can give you very good support if needed. I just finished another unit using a REX C100 for my feeder pot and it works well but definitely not as "neat" a unit as the 2352. Does the job though at a lot less expense.
I've tried twice to order from http://jconninv.com last night from the IPad and today from a desktop, both times I get Failed to connect to mailserver at "localhost" error messages. Anyone else try?
I emailed James last night, he responded today that he'd look into the problem. I emailed him what I wanted, he sent an invoice, I paid wham bam than you ma'am, order complete in less than 5 mins. Don't you wish all orders went that smoothly.
I'll let you know when my DIY PID Controller shows up
Jim
Thanks. The website is back up this morning. I found what I needed. I could not believe how much my Lyman dipper pot temp varied until I recently added a dial thermometer! I'm looking forward to the control the PID will give me. -Ed
PIXeL
Witamy CAST Boolits przyjacielu.
Musisz wysłać zdjęcia z Polski, a my na piwo z okazji
On Sundays I umuwiony with colleagues at the shooting range.
Link to photos give the evening (our time)
Yours sincerely.
Your website is like a treasure of knowledge.
Może piwa dla każdego!
Attachment 137517Attachment 137518Attachment 137519
Hi All: Last fall, after getting some advice here and reading several articles on PID controllers for electric lead pots, I bought "everything" recommended and built my first PID controller (PID). It ran great and I used it happily in several casting sessions before it got too cold to enjoy casting in my unheated garage with the door open for ventilation. So, I shut down for the winter. While shut down, I got to thinking on the design and wiring of my PID and decided that I could build a much simpler one. I decided to use the same MyPin, but to simplify everything else. As a side bonus I thought I could make it smaller and more portable, should that be desired. Today I successfully tested the new, "mini" PID and was again very happy with the results. By the way, while testing my new "mini" I checked frequently for any heat build-up on the solid-state switch since I'd eliminated the finned heat exchanger, and it barely got warm to the touch. The small box is ventilated, so all should remain well as the ambient temperature gets warmer. -Ed
Here is a quick easy Pid setup I just did for a member here.
The enclosure is a wall mount meaning it's meant to be mounted on a wall. It's what I had and it was free
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...fed546d649.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...de39e9bb0c.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...df2a18956e.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...ce0b51e541.jpg
Basically I just cut a extension cord and used it.