Hi Mark,
you are right, I am working on a new design for the flipper that can be used with nosedown plates. A solution without printing a new whole base should be possible.
Mike
P.S.: really nice and solid print, btw!
Printable View
I modified my small spring housing to hold the large spring. It works however I drilled the countersunk hole for the spring off center, I just couldn't clamp it solid enough to do a good job drilling. I just need to make sure I put the flush side down when screwing the housing to the plate.
There are several different springs out there, with different OD. Here a picture how to handle it.
Attachment 215898
Hi Mike,
Are you using a refrigeration tubing spring that is used to bend copper pipe as your delivery tube to the dropper? I like that plastic piece. I assume it attaches to the bottom of the collator? Another piece I didn't get.
I just saw a set of those springs in the hardware store for roughly $6.00 ea if that i what your using.
Please read the instructions on thingiverse ;)
Quote:
Springs: https://www.doublealpha.biz/mrbullet...ension-adaptor „Two sizes are available. The Small (10mm inner diameter) matches the springs used with the rifle caliber machines and the large size (12mm inner diameter) as shipped with the pistol calibers.”
I have to do something different. I cannot in good conscience purchase too much from MBF. a refrigeration spring for 3/8 tubing and 1/2" tubing are what I'm going to try for roughly $12.00 for the pair plus tax. I have several in my tool box if memory is correct but they may have some rust on them so new is in order.
Maybe copper tubing with a flare at the collator end? I still have some refrigeration tools left.
LMAO
For a second I was like what the heck is Scotty?
Then I reread and caught the Star Trek reference
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I modified the flipper. It has an eliptical shape now, not interfering with the drop hole.
Attachment 215903Attachment 215904
what do you think?
All that is needed from Double Alpha is the extension spring $11 (the MBF spring is WAY easier to use as it is way more flexible than tubing benders), the MBF motor $25 and the MBF drop die $49.. everything else is printed, or if you utilize my idea for mounting a piece of 3/4" square tubing from Home Depot for universal stand either from the press body or from anywhere on your bench then you can use my square tubing adapter I will post on thingiverse.
I will be Posting the 9 mm and .45 drop tubes that work for the Lee BD system. as well as a version for the RCBS drop die, all for the optical sensor only. Should have them up here within the next week or so on my Thingiverse (once I figure out how to upload the files) , and I'm sure Mike will link to them as I will send him the files as well to add to the original project.
Gerry G
What printers and filament are you all using? (Anet A8 or A6) (ABS, PLA) (1.75 or 3.0).
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Anet a8 , pla 1.75
Btw cheap $40’per 2 rolls
Had to look it up
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Monoprice maker select plus using Hatchbox pla 1.75 $22 shipped per roll on amazon.
Monoprice maker select plus, 1.25, glass on bed (stock bed was warped). Solutech PLA from Amazon, $20 per roll.
Anet A8 with 1.75 PLA about $14 and up per 1kg spool on Amazon. using the green surface plate Mamorubot from Amazon (best thing I ever got for printer EVER)
To make mine work perfectly I used a plain sheet of printer paper as the gap setter, first make sure 100% sure there is not a little glob of filament on the tip of extruder, then level all 4 corners several times making sure there is just enough gap that the paper is touching both the bed and extruder. I did mine a CH lower and had the paper have a little tension but I could still drag it out. mine holds better than anything I have ever seen and requires no glue, hairspray or tape, leaves the work table side looking like glass. and once it cools the item is just sitting there and can be lifted with no force required to separate.
Hope that helps
Houston we have a problem
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d588590aa9.jpg
Not the one I printed.
This was one of the first ones I got from tony.
Just finished assembling it.
Put a about 100 9mm Boolits in it and started testing.
The wall failed right at the top of the ramp
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Bugger.... Can it be repaired with glue?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6fad9d3757.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...80d47c49f9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...48939a8e18.jpg
Sold at Home Depot
Packs of 3. 2 packs is under $4 with tax
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Not sure if it can be repaired.
Its plastic so I could heat it up with a torch and refuse it.
I took my butane soldering iron and fused the top of the wall on the replacement I got from tony and I think it is usable now. Wall is pretty solid now.
That is the cool thing about working with plastics. If you catch a issue early on you can fuse it back with heat and it be good
Good point, with time, i bet you will get to know all the tricks of what can and what can't be saved. When you understand how it works and how it reacts to heat, you can repair things if/when they break.
I would put some cuss words in here but I don't want to give myself a infraction.
So, I played around with the broken base.
Something that I noticed was the inside section right where the wall separation started was glossy.
I thought it was just a issue with the printing or something.
So I took my butane soldering iron and used the heat port to heat up the plastic at the seam and fuse it back together on the outside part of the wall.
I smelled something towards the end but didn't think anything of it.
Well I started to fuse the inside part and started where the glossy section was.
Guess what. The glossy section is covered in SUPERGLUE!!
When I heated it up it gave off the distinct fumes and my eyes started burning..
Tony must of used superglue to fix the wall separation prior to shipping it to me.
The good news, is thanks to Tazza the collator base is repaired.
I fused the entire outside. I used the tip to stitch the ends and used the heat port to melt the seam all the way around it.
I used the heat port to melt the inside except where the superglue was. I hit it and my eyes started watering right away. Heated superglue is no joke.
The repair is strong. I took it in my hands and tried to break the wall and I couldn't.
I didn't put my full strength into it but I put more force then it would ever see and it didn't budge
As soon as you mentioned hitting superglue with a torch, my throat started to close up, those fumes are NASTY, far worse than plastic gives off when being melted. I he tried to repair the fault and if it has worked, you never would have known.
Good to hear it seems that the repair is going to holdup really well. It may not look as pretty at it should, but functional is what you wanted.
Why didn't I think of that? I used JB weld on mine and I should have just heated it up. I did however grind into the first one to see if it was solid and found out it was hollow. The JB weld filled the voids and made it smooth again. Oh, how I wish I had just bought a printer in thefirst place.
I tried a M5 X 25 and the pitch may have been different on mine or something. Mine screwed in several threads and stopped and I didn't want to force the issue. My M5 seemed to look the same thread wise as the original ones I took out of the gear box. I'm not however a metric champ so I stopped in my tracks and simply put the original back in.
I can 4 corner my bed and set the gaps right but it’s not flat, the middle is higher by a tiny amount. Since that where things have been printed so far, that’s where I set the gap.Quote:
I am having issues with my surface plate
Think my gap isn’t set right.
I cut a piece of glass to use on the top but the thermocouple wires on the bed come up to the top in the center.
So that makes for almost zero contact between the bed and glass top. Maybe there is some thermal paste/adhesive that would be perfect for this application?
I also wonder how the additional mass negatively effects the end product by causing more flex than normal.
On your bed. There is a led.
Is that on top or on the bottom.
Well, that could be. I figured the side that had the tape on it was the “print” side but I also put mine together off the little leaflet as I didn’t know there were instructions on the SD card until I was ready to print (aka didn’t read them).
Is the connector and LED indicator supposed to be up or down?
Aluminum side up
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Led down
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