Basswood is another wood with similar texture. used for carving.
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Basswood is another wood with similar texture. used for carving.
I like wood and it seems you are seeking a class of wood for its porosity after charcoaled?
Yes?
OK , next time I'll post when I'm not cooking
FOOD That is!
This is going to sound stupid but I have to ask. Since moose pretty much eat only willow would moose pellets work?
Now you guys are gonna get me in trouble with the Mrs. Still building my F/L (GPR) , making a pot for casting (got the mold, dipper and thermo) and now building a ball mill and press to make BP and corn it.....
Motor is an old washer motor, tube is made outta 4" pvc, got the barrings and the roller rods. just need the belts and pullies (where is that old riding mower?) Trying to source the bottle jack second hand. Gonna have to get the C channel and the 1" plate from the scrap yard. All I should have to buy is the gauge and the all thread.
so, let me get this straight....
if you use 80 grains of Goex from your Measure, you would WEIGH that, and then use the equivilent WEIGHT of homemade powder..... I assume you would then calculate the VOLUME of said WEIGHT, and reset your measure to that for HOMEMADE BP?
If I have been reading the pyro sites correctly if you don't corn your BP then the volume to weight ratio is off (more fluffy BP).
corning involves pressing your BP to 1.7g/cc (the videos i have watched on the subject it looks like it requires about 3k psi depending on your die size)
OK. here is another ???
I cannot find reasonably priced KNO2, the best I found is $12.99/lb
and agriculture fert that is recommended is around 15-0-44
I can get 40-0-0 (or something like that... Pure nitrogen)
and I can get 0-0-60 (pure potassium)
Can I mix them in some ratio???
do I even need "K" if I can get pure NO2??
also, sulfur is available large quantiities.....
Can someone give me some direction?
Spectracide stump remover is available at Walmart and it is supposed to be almost pure KNO2, $4.90 a pound. I just got some the other day. Skylighter has sulfur by the pound. Wills put up a link to them a page or 2 back. IIRC the sulfur was about 4 or 5 bucks a pound.
Bob
OOOPPS I just noticed you are in Canada. You might still try to find the stump remover and a drug store for the sulfur.
Bob
You may find sulfur as a garden/farm powder to sprinkle onto plants as a mitacide.
No, that is the wrong nitrogen for making it kwikly. Also, 0-0-60 fertilizer is "dirty" It is, IMO, better to use the potassium chloride that is sold for water softeners.
If you can get cold packs that are ammonium nitrate based(ACE brand) view the following:
http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-ma...-packs-274503/
I don't think calcium nitrate & CAN fertilizers are restricted in Canada. These can be used to make KNO3. The needed potassium carbonate can be purchased at pottery supply store or wood ashes can be used.
I guess I'll just have to keep my eyes peeled for some of the right stuff.
if it is not going to be cost effective, then it is not going to be worth the effort.
"Common" AG fertilizer is not so common, neither is stump remover. I found some but it is $13.00/lb.
not bad considering the last BP I found was over $40.00/lb
the fake stuff is $20.00/lb, but I would still like to make my own.
99% KN03 should be about 2 USD per pound. S and C either the same, or somewhat cheaper. Unless you are making a significant amount, I'd forget the whole idea. ... felix
I just got 100lb(tomatoes want some too) of Kno3 for $1.50 a per pound in town. I could have saved $.07/lb if I bought it off ebay.
As for the sulfur for pure rubber makers its $5/lb plus shipping.
and charcoal should only cost you time and a brand new steel paint can. make your own look up a test many have been done on different varieties of trees.
I haven't made it yet but these are realistic prices for the US.
Plus the ball mill and media also a press if your corning it, and screens to separate the sizes.
My ball mill cost me - $23 (that mostly was the canister at $17) and a new cap for a motor. media is lead balls wonder where I got them?
press - free neighbor has one i can use. Die - I'm a machinist.
the only thing left is the screen and i don't want to pay $25 per and you need at least 2, 3 is better. I'm making 3f and 4f, if you want also 2f a 4th and 5th screen is needed. So I'm attempting to find a better deal and reading on how to tell the different sizes still.
mike
like I posted earlier, I can get pure N and pure K.
I may try mixing them and filtering them.
Perotter thinks that will not be successful
as for KNO3, I only found one place that sells it at $13.00/lb
ALL the garden stores are no longer stocking it.
as for 15-0-44, I've read that it is good for BP, but no one is stocking that either.....
15-0-44 is KNO3. the manufactures cant agree on the numbers 13-15 - 0 - 42-46 are the numbers I have seen.
You might have to see if any of the stores can order it in. That's what I did. Called and the store said No but we might be able to get it. they called me back in 5min and said we can have it by friday.
Nanuk,
Scienceforyou.net has KNO3 for $7 an LB. If you have pure K and pure N you cannot just mix them, first of all pure K is a metal (how are you storing it, it cant come into contact with water) and it is usually very expensive. Next, pure N is a gas.... dont know how you would mix them. You need KNO3, you can get it at the previously stated website or even just looking on ebay. There is a lot of chemistry behind why you should just buy it rather than making it. What did you mean by you can get pure K and N? You may mean something else but what you gave was the chemical symbols for elemental potassium (K) which is a soft and very reactive metal, and Nitrogen (N) which is a gas. I have never used stump remover to make BP so I cant comment on how it works, I have always used pure KNO3 purchased from a pyro supplier.
Mike
atom73:
by pure, I mean something like 46-0-0 and 0-0-60 fertilizer... the rep said it is pure as only nitrogen and potassium were the included products.
so that is why I was wondering about mixing some granular together, filtering, and dehydrating.
I agree it is stupid that no one carries these anymore. nothing makes sense anymore.
atom73: remember, I"m in Canada.... things are out of control here!
Just curious if anyone has chronoed or group tested their powder yet.
Bob
Heck, I'm still trying to get around to making a batch! :lol:
I've got a new job and they are keeping me busy through the week, and too tired to get much "hobby" stuff done after all else is said and done at weeks end. :sad:
I would like to see chrono results- more motivation for those of us that are slacking! :grin:
Glad you found a job Charlie. I have been been up to my butt in alligators for a change and haven't made a batch yet either. It should slow down a little this month and maybe I'll get a chance to make some charcoal and order some sulfur.
Bob
Yes I have.I just got back from AZ where I shot at the range with none pressed
powder & it grouped as good as the pressed.I did not chrono this powder but have in the past on the pressed "cornded" with my 50 cal.
I plan on buying a chrono this week so I can test this 54 cal.I will post some pic's
tomorrow if I get the chance.
Fly:coffeecom
I finally tried making my own BP. This is something that I had sworn off due to the potential danger, but it was an idea in the back of my mind that just would not let go. I have a degree in chemistry and worked in industry for a few years in the lab, so it was not an outrageous risk, I figured. I found Herr Ulrich Bretscher's website to be of profound help and a source of great technical information (http://www.musketeer.ch/blackpowder/recipe.html). His information is firsthand and well-researched. I made a batch of BP using his procedures and it went quite well. The BP shot well in my 1860 Colt C&B, although the shots hit well below the usual point of impact when GOEX is used. This is no doubt because the density ratio of my homemade BP to GOEX is 0.86. Because the volume of the chambers of the cylinder is a fixed volume, a higher density powder will give more power. That said, the homemade BP shot well and accurately with no more fouling than the commercial powders. I am sold on it! Is this because my homemade stuff is better -- no, but rather it is just plain fun and satisfying to make my own quality BP!
There is always satisfaction in anything you can do yourself. Also makes the end result much more satisfying.
I built my own house, not because I wanted to but the situation got to the point that I had to. Never thought that I was capable of such an undertaking but 20 years later it still brings a smile when I'm kicked back in my easyboy and I look around and think I did this myself.
Bob
Sharps if you corned "pressed " that powder it would have the same density.I do corn
the powder for my cap & ball revolers for that reason.
For my muzzle loaders I just use a good binder to whole the grains together & weigh
my loads & put into pvc viles I made.That way I don't worry about how much more powder
volume on a powder measure.
I just made up a new batch using eastern cedar that show's alot of promise.
When I get my chrono I will post some results.I have so far black willow, silver maple
& now eastern cedar to test.
Fly
Fly
That will be interesting to see, I've got tons of cedar.
Bob
Well Boz I can tell you this.You can get a pretty good idea how fast a powder is by this.
After you mill it then wet & granulate it with a kitchen strainer
of about 12 mesh with a good binder & let it dry over night.
Then pour a line of it about 4" long on a ole board.Light it with a long match & it should
almost go poof, with out burning down the row.
I don't know how clear that is but it will give you a idea of how fast the powder is.From
what I can see from this cedar, is it's dam fast.If black willow is faster I can't tell by just
looking.
If you have some eastern cedar make some charcoal, for you won't be disappointed.
Be sure to debark it.I took my chain saw & cut all the branches & knots off first.Then
a good sharp hunting knife will peel that bark like a banana.
Fly
Fly,
I just got through compressing a moist batch in a 6 ton press in a tuna can with an oak plug in the top (no steel to spark). Of course I used eye protection and a 55 gallon plastic barrel over the press to contain any highly unlikely mishap. After a few hours the "hockey puck" was removed. It is currently drying. In a couple of days of air drying I will give corning it a try. Will screen door screen work OK for this?
I shot my first batch of homemade BP in my 1859 Sharps carbine yesterday. It shot to point of aim compared to the standard load of 1.5 FG Swiss and the fouling really did not seem to be much, if any, worse. Wahoo!
Man a Sharps!I would give all most anything for a 45-70.But the $$$$ is still holding me back.
Sharps it may take longer than a few days.More like a week in spingtime to dry.Now when it is dry
I put my pucks in a metal container & crush them with a old baseball bat.
Then screen them.What does not past threw beat it a little more.What is to fine, just wet
it & repeat the process.
You can see why I don,t like corning.It's alot more work.But with cap & ball if you want
max loads, it's just part of it.
But it is fun making this stuff on your own.I read Muskenteer when I first started & he inspired me.But do try ball milling your powder, for it will make it sooooo much faster.Please
beleave me on that.
Fly
Fly,
I found Musteteer's website (Ulrich Bretscher) to be fantastic as well. He helped put me over the hump about three weeks ago when I made my first batch. Thanks for the hints on the making of dense, corned BP. I will let this second batch "hockey puck" dry for a couple of weeks before attempting to corn it. Is screen door type screen OK for corning BP? I used my vibrating tumbler with some 73 caliber lead balls to mill the mixture, which was a heck of alot easier than a mortar and pestle! Any further help on the fine points of BP would be much appreciated!
Well I never used a vibrating tumbler to grind powder.My first ball mill was a $30 Harbor
Freight rock tumbler with lead balls.
If your vibrating tumbler is grinding the powder as fine as flour then I guess nothing wrong
I can see with doing it like that.
It sounds like you got it down very well.Let us know how it does.
What type of charcoal are you using?That can make a huge differance also.
Fly
Fly,
I used willow to make the charcoal since it was available for free and is commonly used for this purpose. I have cottonwood trees on the property and may try that in the future.
big surprize from you!!
Champkins,
Ich verstehe nicht was Sie bedeuten.