If you reload or lube/size over a concrete floor---put a cheap throw rug beneath your feet---should you drop anything---it will prevent any damage. Best to use one that is a light color..easier to find things that you've dropped.
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If you reload or lube/size over a concrete floor---put a cheap throw rug beneath your feet---should you drop anything---it will prevent any damage. Best to use one that is a light color..easier to find things that you've dropped.
I have read about all kinds of things that boolit casters use to keep air from getting to the melt. I have really good luck just placing a folded up piece of tin foil, 3 to 4 layers thick, over my Lee 20 lb pot. It keeps the air off the melt and I just lift it off if want add sprus back or whatever.
To ensure that you don't get any zinc in your lead molten pot just get an accurate thermometer. Lead melts at 621.5 degrees F and zinc melts at 787.15 degrees F. So if you keep your pot temperature at 650 degrees or so you will have molten lead and solid zinc and steel that can just be scooped up and removed. [smilie=s:
When using a tumbler or vibrating case cleaner, put a used dryer sheet cut into strips in with the brass and media. It helps to trap the fine dust as well as adds a bit of shine to the cases over what the media does. Also look for Lizard Bedding in Petsmart, a 25 pound bag is way cheaper than what you pay for Media in the gun shops and if you get the fine stuff, you don't have to clean it out of the primer pockets like you do regular Media.
If you like the RCBS 'Lil Dandy" rotary powder measure like so many of us do, you either are or will be frustrated at the inability to throw the exact powder charge you want at times. There are two ways to deal with this:
1. Divide your powder charge into smaller portions and look for a rotor that will throw that. For example, suppose you want to throw 12 grains of Bullseye, but don't have #21 rotor. Take a look at throwing a double charge of #11 rotor (6 grains) or 4 charges of #3 rotor (3 grains) to get the same total charge. Of course, this requires some care to avoid an overcharge, but it should be safe enough if you can reliably count to four.
2. Select a rotor that throws MORE of your chosen powder than you want. Mix up some two component epoxy and put a few drops into the caviity to reduce the volume. Use plenty, because now you insert a drill bit into the cavity and rotate it by hand to remove just a bit of the cured epoxy. Test the powder weight. Continue until it's throwing the charge you want. Then file off the factory marking and mark its new setting with a scribe.
When shooting moon clips of .40S&W out of a S&W610..(cast .401).. .. don't put your S&W 625 on the same table. I now have one moon clip of enlarged, ruptured .40W&W casings. Fortunately there was no accident. When I wasn't hitting plates any harder than a pellet gun might, I should have taken note. I have swallowed my pride and show it to students in Canadian Restricted Firearms Safety Courses.... It's ironic, coming from an instructor, but I'd rather show how easily mistakes can be made and give the incident (and students) a face to look at. It's as dangerous as having more than one powder on the reloading bench at one time.
I spray that all over the top of my reloading bench right before I use my RCBS charge-master 1500, My reloading bench is covered in outdoor type carpet, it works.
http://cn1.kaboodle.com/hi/img/b/0/0...=1301717089000
When drinking with your buddies DON'T pass out while you are still with them.............
Write EVERYTHING down. Even that charge you've loaded thousands of for your .38 or .45. Write down the primer you used, the OAL, boolit, powder, charge weight and anything else significant. You will have an unexpected break in the action for some unforeseen reason and could make a bad mistake relying on memory. Always refer back to your notes. Read them like they are from someone else and verify everything talking out loud to yourself. Verify, verify, verify. This isn't an old age thing. It's safety for everyone.
David
1. Use a Sharpie to ID ingots as soon as they cool.
2. Empty plastic coffee "cans" make awesome storage, TL and brassrattin' containers.
3. Dry BPCR cases in a warm (250 degree) oven on a towel spread over a cookie sheet. They come out so pretty you won't want (or need) to tumble them.
4. Casting outside in 100 degree Texas summers is pure lunacy.
If using wax as a flux, expect a sudden gush of fire to engulf the top of the pot as you are stirring, and don't pull the melt over and onto yourself as you jump and pull your hand away.
Randy
Aw, that's no kidding, there!Quote:
4. Casting outside in 100 degree Texas summers is pure lunacy.
Don't go hot plate shopping in a college town during back-to-school week. :coffeecom
I replaced the metal wire "clip" that holds the shell holder in my Rock Chucker with an O ring of appropriate size. It allows the shell holder to float and align itself suring operation. I've had it that way for years and find it to be beneficial, for ME, anyway. enjoy Mike
Well here's a tip I just discovered, when applying Bullplate on a preheated mold, don't be temped to use the cheap dollar store plastic barreled ones.
Now any one have a good tip for getting melted plastic off an aluminum mold? :oops:
Try putting it in the freezer for a couple of days. If it's the right kind of plastic, you chould be able to flake it off while it's cold. If it ISN't the right kind of plastic, try wetting it for a while in some JB Blaster from your auto parts store. Best penetrating oil I ever found.