that looks great.
ALL my brass have red sharpie ring for easy locating
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that looks great.
ALL my brass have red sharpie ring for easy locating
As for the lyman heater. I had a recommendation to get a silicon heater made for engines. You can get them at auto parts stores or amazon and silicon it on the side. Cost about 6 bucks at the time. I think its around 9 now for the smaller one. Which is what I used. Works great, I am debating putting a dial on it to adjust the heat up and down but for now I just plug it in ans let it set for about 10 minutes and I unplug it till the lube stiffens up and that's about a 30 minute window. Or wait around 20 and plug it in and no stopping ti re heat. Its a little learning curve to it. But it works really well for what I spent on it
I wish somebody made.............a simple, affordable, rugged, reliable, easy-to-use nose first/straight through lube-sizer. Something in the price range of a 4500 or LAM 2 would be nice. It would be great if it accepted existing dies. I do not need 2,000/hour production. I do not need a heated base although some would. Air feed/pressurization of the lube reservoir would be nice but not an absolute necessity.
I'll take three!
Regards,
Tony
I like slow heavy loads, and really like when the bullet is heavy enough to make it a subsonic round even with maximum powder charge (powder charge is for me often limited by space left concidering the size of the heavy projectile).
So I'm looking for a hollow-point 9mm mold, 150 grains (or heavier, as long as the result is a shell which is subsonic at maximum powder load). Preferablu gas checked.
Has anyone sen something like this, or a manufacturer who makes custom HP molds?
ot: I'm completely novice to casting, I'm looking to casting because I want to shoot more on a limited budget. Gun is a 9mm Glock 17 with aftermarket barrel for lead projectiles. I like that gun because I'm trained to use it (Swedish Royal Cavalry, Pistol 88). //ot
How about just using 147's?
Reloading bench= 2 x 4's + 3/4" plywood + long screws+ drill+saw+time!
I don't know much about exporting but you could get a 158g 38 rn mold and have these guys convert it to HP, they would be dropping very close to 150g after that.Quote:
Assuming that's a response to my post about heavy 9mm hp molds, haven't found any manufacturer making 147 grain hp-molds either, at least none that export to europe. I'd really appreciate if you'd post links to such a page if you know of one.
http://www.hollowpointmold.com/cramer-style-molds/
A device to remove all liars from government would be nice. LOL
One of the handiest tools in my collection is the small primer pocket cleaner called the Croc-o-gator. Made by Dewey, it takes a quick short twist of this wonderful tool to remove dust and the like from primer pockets of reloaded brass. (Sinclair and similar carbide pocket cutters work best for 1st time; but imho nothing comes close to the Croc-o-gator for subsequent reloading)
Jere's the big "but" -- if doing more than 50-60 cases, it does tenderize the fingers.
Hence, and adapet/collet chuck to go om a cordless screwdriver to hold a Croc-o-gator would be an awesome "I wish they made it" product. I'd probably buy two of em ;).
FYI, Sinclair purveys it at: http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadin...prod32935.aspx
Best!
geo
One die that would seat totally first and then crimp for s pistol. No shaving that way.
Edit: l did find below hornaday seat taper crimp die, l think it will do copper plated 9mm but will it do hi-tek stained/cooked lead boolits?
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0ac2e396.jpg
I have submitted a few ideas to MTM and RCBS but no response from either for 2 years. So I will post up here. Please let me know if these have popped up before but I was thinking a Southpaw dipper (friend has a hard time casting using the right handed dipper), I also thought that it would be nice to have a die holder for the common RCBS die box size (other boxes of similar size Pac Tool, Lyman, Hornady)that I could screw to the wall or side of the bench and each die box slid into a shelf like area. Make them in various sizes so one could hold 1 wide and 4 high all the way to 3-4 wide by 5-6 high. It would also be super cool if someone was to develop a standardized rail system so I could change presses and trimmers and all just by sliding in a 12"x12" block. I was thinking of one that was inset and flush with the surface of the bench so as not to impede its surface area.
Mechanicalmayham
All your wishes have been granted to other people.
The Lyman lead dipper is double sided. There is a threaded "receiver" on both sides.
One or two of the members here make rail systems for mounting presses and accessories. Pat Marlin makes the RockDock http://www.patmarlins.com/
Years back, Wiley Clapp described his new loading bench. It was three layers of 3/4" cabinet grade (no voids) plywood laminated with paper between the layers to create just enough room for slide in blocks. The middle layer was cut an inch wider than the top layer. The blocks were double layers, without the paper shim. Here is one adaptation of it. http://www.rifleshootermag.com/2011/...benchs_022607/
This one uses clamping rails
http://ultimatereloader.com/2011/03/...mate-reloader/
Lee makes a bench plate system that isn't flush, but it is affordable.
Do they make something. Other than drill an universal jaw to polish bullets if so what an where im interested in that.
'wish some one would make, dual chamber, 220 volt, 1000 watt elements - 3 per-melt and 2 pour side , bottom pour, digital controlled , lead pot that not $800
dead thread??
Already making friends, and killing threads.
I'll second that
I wish Lee sold a kit for there collet neck size dies of mandrels -1 +1,2,3,4 So they could be used like Redding bushing dies in reverse. GP