No now, it's not called ****, it's called "experienced", or maybe it should be called "friendly". There doesn't that sound nicer?:mrgreen:
Ron
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Yes, exactly like you do when you want to recover duck and goose grease for cooking and there's a good salt content in it from the cooking: you boil it with a good amount of water.
Salt will mix readily with the water and upon cooling, the grease will be clean and salt free. Refrigerate and you can pull the cake of hardened grease easily.
I guess lard would do exactly the same. :-D
PP.
I saw one part of this thread that mentioned synacetti, a synthetic subsitute for spermacetti wax, anoyone got an idea where I could get some?
Thanks Felix!
A question:
You say that the lubricant has the consistency of silly putty but is sticky. Silly Putty is not sticky - it has a very stretchy - non-sticky characteristic.
Does this recipe produce a lubricant that has a texture like Silly Putty and is not sticky? I have tried making a batch and the lubricant is extremely sticky and too soft for my purpose.
I heated the Castor Oil/Mineral Oil to a smoking state (approximately 15 minutes). then added the Ivory Soap shavings. A lot of foaming occurred and I kept stirring until most of had dissappated. I had a double boiler fired up that had the molten bees wax in it. I added the Castor Oil/Mineral Oil mix to the bees wax and noticed that the foam was still at the surface of the wax. I then poured the mass into a mould. The result was a soft, mushy, grainular mass - not what I was expecting.
Should the bees wax be added to the Castor Oil/Mineral Oil mix (at the high temperature) over direct heat or was I on track by adding the two together in the double boiler?
Can someone help me out here because I think I am missing some important steps.
Thanks.
Actually, I add the oil to the melted beeswax without using a double boiler at any time during the process. Yes, it appears you need to add more beeswax to the same mix you already have because the oil/soap mix was too thin. Not your fault in the least. I have found that every bar of soap I have ever used was from a different lot. No telling how much water is within a bar. ... felix
Thank you Felix for the comeback. But, now another question: Is the temperature of the melted bees wax important during the mixing process? Or does the Mineral Oil/Castor Oil/Ivory mix combine with the melted bees wax over a double boiler?
Thanks.
This is a very interesting thread! And your information is so helpful!
No need for double boiler when the pot is no more than 20 percent full and the sides perfectly, dishwasher, clean. Keep the heat on low at all times unless stirring rapidly, and once melted take the pot off of the burner and continue stirring. If you are going to add lanolin, do so last and when the total mess is just above its freezing point. ... felix
Using the Felix Lube - the Short Version I made my first mix of Felix lube today.
Can you get to much carnuba wax in it, my mix is pink... Yeah pink, not that I intended it to come out that way. Other than that it turned out well I think.
Tim
In the first post the Felix Lube formula calls for 2 Tbs. of Mineral (Baby) Oil and 1 Tbs. of Castor Oil. It says to heat the Mineral Oil until it starts to smoke and then add the Castor Oil and cook with continuous stirring for 30 minutes. My question is, if you're using twice as much Mineral Oil as Castor Oil can you go ahead and cook say 8 oz. of Mineral Oil and 4 oz. of Castor Oil for the 30 minutes and then store it for future use? This would save a lot of time in fixing future batches of lube because all you would have to do is heat up 3 Tbs. of the precooked mix and then add the other ingredients.
:drinks: Drifter
Drifter, refer back to post #41 by Felix;It would seem logical that the same advice would apply to the 2:1 mix.Quote:
Originally Posted by Felix
You only have to cook and stir it so long in order to polymerize the castor oil so it won't separate, later on, from the petrolium based products.
Also from post #41;Quote:
Originally Posted by Felix
If you can find it," Ivory snow" is the same thing as ivory soap except it is in a powder form.
It should be in the washing detergent section at your local grocery emporium. I have a box that I have had for years. makes good Napalm.
TTC
BluesBear,
Thanks for the reply.
I read post #41 and I didn't understand the 50/50 mix when the formula in post #1 calls for a 2 to 1 mix and the way I understand the other part of post #41 that you quoted was that the cooking made the Castor Oil blend with the other (petro) oil. On the second part I think you understand it the same way I do.
I plan on using the Castor Oil so I would have to cook it. It just seemed to me that it would be easier to cook a large batch of the two ingredients, use what you need for the size batch of lube you are making, and then save the rest for future use.
Might not work but it's just a thought.
Drifter
Yes, pre-cooking castor oil with a petro product is a good idea. Just like annealing, it is the amount of time with heat applied makes everything work. Hotter the heat, the less time is required. Just where that demarcation is ... is completely unknown to describe, except through experience. Try to never let any kind of wax or oil smoke at all because good stuff is evaporating. Just below that smoke point is fine, and is considered the max temp to ever be applied to that mix ever again. Also, just like annealing, you can cool the mix, and then reheat many times. Each time adds more to the effect of what you are trying to do. So,,,, this means that if a batch of lube has been made with castor oil, and that lube begins to leak when placed on paper in the sun, sooner or later, upon another day later, it won't. You can hurry up the process by using the stove again. When there is no leak, there is full polymerization for the lube's purpose. Make sure you know the difference between leaking and melting when doing the "test". ... felix
Thanks felix, I was hoping you would chime in on my question. After I read your post I went ahead and cooked 12 ozs. of Baby Oil and 6 ozs. of Castor Oil (smells pretty good). I washed out the Baby Oil bottle (which had a nice little squeeze spout for squeezing it out in the measuring spoons) and after the mix cools I plan on putting the mix back in the bottle and using it as I need it. I had to order the Lanolin so it will be a few days before I can finish the lube.
Thanks again,
:drinks: Drifter
Drifter, lanolin must be kept cool, say 125 degrees or less. This rule does apply after the lube is several days old and had its time to match-merge all of the ingredients. The other stuff in the lube will protect the lanolin from that time on to the higher temperatures used to remelt and modify. ... felix
felix,
Thanks for the insight about when to add the lanolin. It's amazing what you miss when you read something sometimes. I've read this thread at least four or five times and it says in the very first post to reduce or remove from the heat after the beeswax has melted before adding the lanolin and I totally missed it. I would probably have added it while the lube was too hot.
Thanks again,
Drifter
Felix, is there a missing "not" in the second sentence of your previous post?
If not, then I am confused?
Felix, after cooking the 18 ozs. of Baby Oil and Castor Oil for a half hour I turned the heat off and left it in the pan overnight. This morning I stirred it up and poured it in a clear bottle, and after a couple of hours it had separated into two layers. Does this mean I need to cook it longer? You can shake it up and it seems to blend but after a while it will start to separate again.
Thanks,
Drifter